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Post by ltstanfo on Jan 29, 2008 18:16:37 GMT -8
All, I am trying to locate an exploded diagram / parts list for the old 3 piece US Divers twin manifold that was common from the 50's thru the early 70's. It was most typically used with steel 72s. It has the older lead burst discs and the yoke connect upside down with single on / off metal ""X" wheel at bottom center. If someone can scan and post it here I would very much appreciate it. I have been given an old manifold and want to disassemble and service it. The following item on ebay is of the same design: Thanks, Ltstanfo
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Post by Broxton Carol on Jan 29, 2008 19:29:07 GMT -8
I have the sheet in my usd master repair manual, but I have no way to send it to you. its so simple a child could overhaul it. Its the same as a regular J valve. Take it apart, its no big deal. Just put it back together in the opposite you knocked it down. The center union just has a knob and stem and nylon washer and the nipple with disc. I have these new if you need any. Always lube the parts with dialectric silicon lube so they will turn easily.
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Post by duckbill on Jan 29, 2008 22:38:30 GMT -8
What year? A few of the J-valve parts changed in 1960. If it is 3/4" it is 1960 or later. 1/2" is pre-1960.
I'd be happy to burn you a hard copy and send it to you if you want. Just PM me.
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Post by ltstanfo on Jan 30, 2008 6:51:29 GMT -8
Thanks all for the help. I found a diagram in an old Scripps Institute service manual for "The Aqua-Lung" dated 1960. I just feel better when a manual is in front of me... it an engineer thing. :-)
I don't know what year the manifold is from but it says "Los Angeles" on it and is for later (not 1/2 inch) tanks.
Thanks again all.. I really appreciate it.
Regards, Ltstanfo
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Post by Broxton Carol on Jan 30, 2008 17:25:39 GMT -8
What year rig are you putting the manifold on? If its a 1960 up to about 1970 they had the metal pull down, and later the ribbed plastic knobs. If you are going to use a late one with the plastic things on your rig, I have original knobs of metal, and a pull rod piece of metal too you can put on your manifold for that early look! If you need, PM me. Thanks, Chuck
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Post by ltstanfo on Jan 31, 2008 11:09:08 GMT -8
All,
I did a quick (low pressure) test of the manifold last night by hooking it up to a set of steel 72s (filled to 300 psi). There is a small, steady stream of bubbles coming from the center section of the manifold, where the main body is (apparently soldered / welded) connected to the pipe that connects to the the j-valve side.
I subsequently broke the unit down, cleaned it and replaced all o-rings but the leak still persists so I can only assume that the manifold needs solder work or is stress cracked. My question is should I try to get this fixed or find another unit?
Opinions are welcome. I didn't pay anything for this manifold so no loss (so far).
Regards, Ltstanfo
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Post by duckbill on Jan 31, 2008 12:25:45 GMT -8
Hmmm. I've never heard of one leaking at a solder joint. You may end up having to get another center section, at least. Might be easier and cheaper to find a-whole-nother unit and save the parts from this one for spares. I don't know if it can be resoldered. Even if it can, the chrome around the solder spot will be discolored. May I suggest you contact "Captain"? I hear he works miracles with these manifolds. He would be most likely to steer you in the right direction. Good luck.
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Post by ltstanfo on Jan 31, 2008 13:11:17 GMT -8
Duckbill,
Thanks for the suggestions. Just a few additions since to my previous posts...
1. The "turn down" for the J-valve is metal. There is no plastic on the outside of this unit... its all metal. 2. The manifold is not chrome (I don't think). It looks like it was dipped in some kind of dull silver paint or is this what happens to very old chrome? :-) 3. Everything else on the manifold works just fine (and rebuilt fine).
I may just aquire a second unit of the same design and keep this for show / parts.
Thanks again, Ltstanfo
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Post by duckbill on Jan 31, 2008 16:56:22 GMT -8
The finish should be just like the satin finish on the Pico regs. Unless yours HAS been painted, it is likely satin (or "industrial") chrome over nickel plate just like they came from US Divers. At the very least you have some good parts. Maybe someone else has a spare center body they used the parts from.
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Post by SeaRat on Feb 1, 2008 16:37:07 GMT -8
Ltstanfo,
I don't think this is a soldiered joint; I think it is brazed. Use of soldier would introduce lead into the system, and that could be potentially harmful to you. So don't even try to soldier it. I would go for a "new" valve, or at least a new center section. This one has been abused, and even if you try to fix it, you will probably introduce new points of failure. Once manufactured, it is very difficult to "repair" a valve where the seam is cracked.
Although I would not suggest it in anything other than a benign diving situation (less than 40 feet, no overhead obstructions, etc.), your other option is to do nothing and simply dive it if the leak is insignificant. A tiny stream of bubbles will not run the air down significantly, especially if you are making twin 72s. I have a friend who dives twin 72 weekly that have numerous leaks, and he simply ignores them (his set has been banged around a lot), as he has plenty of air for the working dives he does at a depth of not greater than 40 feet. So see how bad it is, and whether you have to store/transport the set long distances after filling (my friend has a dive shop about 400 yards from the dive site), and make a determination as to whether it is important or not.
John
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Post by ltstanfo on Feb 2, 2008 18:24:52 GMT -8
John,
Thanks for the suggestion. I'm glad you clarified the material / process for sealing the tube(s). I am not a welder so my choice of terminology may not be good.
I have decided to retire the manifold for parts and am currently watching a few ebay auctions for a mainfold of the same type.
As for the leak, it is indeed a tiny, constant stream of bubbles but if it was observed at only a few hundred psi (not even 1000psi) I am hesitant to try the manifold at full pressure.
In any event, I'm ready to find another manifold and put the "twins" back together. :-)
Regards, Ltstanfo aka Lee
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Post by SeaRat on Feb 6, 2008 7:43:44 GMT -8
You might think of getting a connecting yolk, instead of a twin manifold. It allows you to connect two tanks with their single-tank valves, instead of having to commit them to always being doubles. I have a set like that right now, and they are apart as singles currently. But I can convert them, at full tank pressure, into doubles in about five minutes. It looks like this one, but this one comes with tanks. I have seen them on e-bay in the past:
230219268519
There is a nice USD double manifold on e-bay right now too.
John
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Post by cnotthoff on Mar 28, 2008 18:27:59 GMT -8
Sorry to be so late with the answer. I just started poking around in this forum.
That joint is silver soldered then chromed with the satin chrome, so it matches the look of the whole manifold.
That leak you describe is caused by divers lifting a set of doubles by the center section. Too much torque on the fitting. I know of no fix for that. Reheating to melt the silver solder would probably destroy the chrome, and possibly compromise the strength of the surrounding metal. I never fill anything that looks like it has been heated.
I have a few of those manifolds. Is yours for 1/2" mpt or 3/4 x 14 NGS? The ones I have haven't been used in years, so I can't guarantee they won't leak.
Let me know if you want them.
Charlie
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