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Post by diverdon on Jun 3, 2014 13:26:45 GMT -8
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Post by nikeajax on Jun 3, 2014 13:41:21 GMT -8
Like super cool dady-o! Hey, I could be wrong here, and I know if I am, we'll find out in a short time, but I think you can easily turn that into a Royal Aqua Master by getting a different spring-block for it. If I recall the only difference was that one was balanced and the other wasn't. Hey, it wouldn't hurt to think about it!
Jaybird
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Post by diverdon on Jun 3, 2014 16:30:29 GMT -8
I bet this is why John recommends looking down the hoses and such BEFORE breathing from one of these. Good suggestion! Not sure about converting a DAAM to a RAAM but hopefully someone will chime in about it. One things for sure. This one will get a vinegar bath AND go through the ultrasonic cleaner a few times    At least IT only nested in the exhaust side 'whew'  More later... |
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Post by diverdon on Jun 3, 2014 17:24:32 GMT -8
Like super cool dady-o! Hey, I could be wrong here, and I know if I am, we'll find out in a short time, but I think you can easily turn that into a Royal Aqua Master by getting a different spring-block for it. If I recall the only difference was that one was balanced and the other wasn't. Hey, it wouldn't hurt to think about it! Jaybird It looks like it can be converted to a PRAM as the Phoenix replaces the unbalanced first stage in a DAAM. The RAM has a balanced first stage so if I were to modify it I would go with Luis' Phoenix. BUT, I'm a little ways away from there. First I'll rebuild this one and see what makes it tick. |
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Post by SeaRat on Jun 3, 2014 17:41:19 GMT -8
Don, before you make the mods, dive it as a DA Aquamaster. Even if it is unbalanced, it a very nice regulator as it is. By the way, I like using vice grips to remove the clips, and not the cutters that you show above. With vice grips, you can remove them easily with a pull down and a twist, put them back into the vice grips to straighten the clip, and reuse them multiple times. I've never had to replace a brass clip, as they come off very seldom and so don't really suffer metal fatigue by being bent. Just my take on them. I'm thinking of putting a short video together about taking off and putting on the clips, as I haven't seen much and I have a likely candidate for that exercise.
John
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Post by diverdon on Jun 3, 2014 18:35:12 GMT -8
Thats precisely what I intend to do John. Except I'll replace the c-clamps with a ring when I order my diaphragm and kit. I'll probably try the hooka adapter too so I can dive with my drysuit. Other than the V shaped mouthpiece and hoses from the Snark I picked up and the new silicone pieces no mods will be done. I expect to use this one a fair amountas I like diving dry up here where the water is fairly cold year round. I wasn't diving vintage but Sunday I spent close to two hours in Superior working on a launch and at 38 degrees I couldn't imagine diving wet. But I sure would love to have been using a double  |
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Post by sitkadiver on Jun 4, 2014 8:24:11 GMT -8
Don,
Nice reg. You will get many years of use and enjoyment out of that baby.
Here are a few things I like about your reg:
1. Are those 4 original tinnerman clamps? Wow, tough to find those these days. I'd give that non-serialized DA a few extra browny points for awesome original vintage equip..... Nice score.
2. The inside looks amazing. Was ever used in salt water? I have literaly dissambled regs and ended up with a small pile of sand on the bench. Yours looks super clean, which bodes well for the condition of the volcano orifice(both high and low) and just the general conditiin of it internally...
3. And man, what a nice label. We've seen them in all conditions, but for such an early reg to have that nice of a label, that's a good sign.
Overall Don, I think you found yourself a super sweet DA, one you should keep for many years to come. Hope you enjoy it, and thanks for sharing.
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Post by diverdon on Jun 4, 2014 9:31:37 GMT -8
Don, Nice reg. You will get many years of use and enjoyment out of that baby. Here are a few things I like about your reg: 1. Are those 4 original tinnerman clamps? Wow, tough to find those these days. I'd give that non-serialized DA a few extra browny points for awesome original vintage equip..... Nice score. 2. The inside looks amazing. Was ever used in salt water? I have literaly dissambled regs and ended up with a small pile of sand on the bench. Yours looks super clean, which bodes well for the condition of the volcano orifice(both high and low) and just the general conditiin of it internally... 3. And man, what a nice label. We've seen them in all conditions, but for such an early reg to have that nice of a label, that's a good sign. Overall Don, I think you found yourself a super sweet DA, one you should keep for many years to come. Hope you enjoy it, and thanks for sharing. Thanks Dave! The clamps are Tinnermans and they'll be going on a set of new hoses and mouthpiece when I get around to ordering some. In the meanwhile, I'll use some newer hoses that I have around here with the V shaped mouthpiece. As for how clean it is, the eBay listing was right here in Michigan. Score! Most of the regs I've found around here spent their entire adult life in the Great (fresh-water) Lakes area!!! That label is even sweeter now. I put the bottom can in vinegar for 5 minutes, gave it a quick rinse and then 6 minutes in the UC. It is very, very clean!!! Because I've never taken one apart I am in need of a little direction. I have downloaded the Aqualung Repair Manual in pdf, which describes step by step how to take it apart, but it doesn't make much sense to me, yet... And there is a slight trickle of air when I hook it up to a 600 PSI bottle, so I'm not sure where to start. I'min no hurry really, as I have others to use. But I do want to get this one back in the water. Thanks for your attention. I was hoping it was a good one. Don |
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Post by sitkadiver on Jun 4, 2014 11:20:02 GMT -8
Don, My only recommendation for you at this point would be to get some tools for the reg. Herman makes a sweet body ring tool. Once you start rebuilding these, that tool is an absolute must have. Herman also makes a nice second stage tool similar to the Aqua Lung conshelf tool, it's a small screw driver that run through a 1/4 hex fitting with a delrin body. You can find the body ring tool here: www.vintagedoublehose.com/index.php?option=com_rokecwid&view=ecwid&Itemid=175#!/~/product/category=2784066&id=15502679 You might also consider an IP guage if you don't already have one. Although some divers like to set the IP by listening for a leak and then backing off a 1/4 turn. |
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Post by diverdon on Jun 4, 2014 11:31:59 GMT -8
I do have have an IP gauge, but lack the others. I'll peruse the catalog to see whats available. I knew it was only a matter of time before I found myself looking for proprietary tools.
Thanks for the link Dave,
Don
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Post by herman on Jun 4, 2014 14:45:03 GMT -8
Like super cool dady-o! Hey, I could be wrong here, and I know if I am, we'll find out in a short time, but I think you can easily turn that into a Royal Aqua Master by getting a different spring-block for it. If I recall the only difference was that one was balanced and the other wasn't. Hey, it wouldn't hurt to think about it! Jaybird Converting a DA to a balanced reg is not that easy. There are considerable differences in the nozzle and while the parts might go in, they will not work correctly. To convert a DA to a RAM you MUST replace the entire first stage, both the external and internal parts plus the HP seat pin. I agree with John, just service it and dive it. The one exception I would suggest is replacing second stage with a HPR. Both for performance reasons and the following. The second stage nut appears to be staked, a very common thing done back in the day. The problem is to get to the parts below out you need to remove the nut. Odds are it will turn the entire LP seat but not come loose...if you are lucky, if not the top of the top of the LP seat will break off. A few years ago this was a problem but now there are reproductions available. The best way to handle this is to carefully remove the 2 screws below the horsehoe lever and slide the lever off the second stage, then you can unscrew the second stage. Once you have it off you need to remove the nut by holding the square end of the LP seat and turning the nut. HOWEVER unless you are careful you will break it off (assuming the staking was done well and many were). Its counter intutive but start by screwing the nut DOWN (on) for a few turns, most of the time this will work. Next you need to clean up the threads. The best way is to clean them up with a die. These threads are 5-40 NOT the more common 4-40, most people miss this difference. Since this is a somewhat odd ball thread most don't have the proper die. The next best option is to carefully clean up the threads with a small file. Next work the nut off slowly, turning it back and forth a little more each time until it comes off. When replacing it, a small dab of fingernail polish will seal the nut but is still easy to get off. As for the tool catalog, just PM me with your email address and I will send you a PDF copy. |
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Post by regulator68bj on Jun 4, 2014 14:51:49 GMT -8
After reading through the posting did some digging to understand why some units were released without serial Nos. found this link which shed some light and to echo what a great find. . |
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Post by diverdon on Jun 4, 2014 19:10:54 GMT -8
Like super cool dady-o! Hey, I could be wrong here, and I know if I am, we'll find out in a short time, but I think you can easily turn that into a Royal Aqua Master by getting a different spring-block for it. If I recall the only difference was that one was balanced and the other wasn't. Hey, it wouldn't hurt to think about it! Jaybird Converting a DA to a balanced reg is not that easy. There are considerable differences in the nozzle and while the parts might go in, they will not work correctly. To convert a DA to a RAM you MUST replace the entire first stage, both the external and internal parts plus the HP seat pin. I agree with John, just service it and dive it. The one exception I would suggest is replacing second stage with a HPR. Both for performance reasons and the following. The second stage nut appears to be staked, a very common thing done back in the day. The problem is to get to the parts below out you need to remove the nut. Odds are it will turn the entire LP seat but not come loose...if you are lucky, if not the top of the top of the LP seat will break off. A few years ago this was a problem but now there are reproductions available. The best way to handle this is to carefully remove the 2 screws below the horsehoe lever and slide the lever off the second stage, then you can unscrew the second stage. Once you have it off you need to remove the nut by holding the square end of the LP seat and turning the nut. HOWEVER unless you are careful you will break it off (assuming the staking was done well and many were). Its counter intutive but start by screwing the nut DOWN (on) for a few turns, most of the time this will work. Next you need to clean up the threads. The best way is to clean them up with a die. These threads are 5-40 NOT the more common 4-40, most people miss this difference. Since this is a somewhat odd ball thread most don't have the proper die. The next best option is to carefully clean up the threads with a small file. Next work the nut off slowly, turning it back and forth a little more each time until it comes off. When replacing it, a small dab of fingernail polish will seal the nut but is still easy to get off. As for the tool catalog, just PM me with your email address and I will send you a PDF copy. I think you're right about that nut being staked. I gave it a gentle turn and it wouldn't budge but the nut, screw and (I suspect) spring beneath it did move. In both directions  So it seems to be pinned well.  S  So the second stage is being held hostage by that little rat right there. OK, I'll follow your directions... And it worked! Thanks Herman!   Now what? I guess I need your ring nut tool. Damn! I hate waiting. |
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Post by diverdon on Jun 4, 2014 19:15:43 GMT -8
Is that seat potentially the reason for the trickle of air when I hooked it up to a tank? I haven't looked at VDH for the parts yet, so would you mind making recommendations?
Thanks again!!!
Don
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Post by george on Jun 5, 2014 3:53:35 GMT -8
Nice find its just like mine. I rebuilt mine and used the duckbill replacement flapper and I installed a HPR and dove it for a year did great I just upgraded mine to Phoenix last week it is nice to have the HP LP ports and its balanced too.
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So it seems to be pinned well.
