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Post by nikeajax on Apr 9, 2019 12:26:24 GMT -8
I called CJ this morning an' we had a nice long chat, around an hour, about how and why regulators work. I need to remember that most people's brains don't work the same was as mine does: at times I could have, and wanted to say, "Well it's easy, just..." But I didn't! Sometimes I can reverse engineer something just by looking at things and do mods: that's beyond a lot of people, but then most people read way better than I do; among a lot of other things. So I try to keep things in context by remembering that he's not asking me to read something, I don't learn that way, so I shouldn't expect his motor skills to do what mine do. It's quite a challenge trying to get people to visualize only with the spoken word, but it can also be fun One of the big things was trying to help him figure out what he was looking at with this: He had two different diagrams: and the schematic shows just a bunch of little disks. One of the schem's doesn't show #7, because it's crimped in, but eventually we dun gotten'd figgured out JB
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Post by crabbyjim on Apr 9, 2019 14:26:45 GMT -8
Thanks JB. When the tools i ordered get here, iwill try to put all these little pieces back together. One of the things I can do with common vintage gear is tear it apart to see how it works. I won’t do something like that with my nib Royal Aquamaster but mr 12’s are cheap and readiy available.
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Post by vance on Apr 18, 2019 8:04:09 GMT -8
Thanks JB. When the tools i ordered get here, iwill try to put all these little pieces back together. One of the things I can do with common vintage gear is tear it apart to see how it works. I won’t do something like that with my nib Royal Aquamaster but mr 12’s are cheap and readiy available. That RAM is much easier to deal with than an MR12!
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Post by herman on Apr 18, 2019 17:54:28 GMT -8
With the right tools.
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Post by crabbyjim on Sept 16, 2019 14:15:07 GMT -8
I have finally gotten around to re-assembling my MR-12 (serial number 46327). I am awaiting the rebuild kit that I just ordered and the pieces and parts are in a vinegar/water soak. While I was sorting through my stash, I found another one marked "Titan II, MR-12 in need of an exhaust diaphragm. Now I must find the assembly diagram (again). After re-reading Greg Barlow's post, it appears that I have an early model (Titan II) and a late model (serial number 46327) MR-12. I can hardly wait to try out my chicken-like, close motor skill on these. By the way, thanks to Jaybird I was able to easily remove the exhaust tee's via his hot water soak method. Thanks Jay! Ok, I got serial number 46327 (The one that Phil disassembled in 30 seconds) rebuilt but the second stage free flows. How does one remove the second stage poppet assembly and what tool do you use? (00766) works like a champ.
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Post by nikeajax on Sept 16, 2019 14:35:47 GMT -8
CJ, if I remember correctly, you'd use a 1/4" wrench and a small screw driver: back the nut all the way off in any case and he poppet with come right out. Heads up: it's spring loaded...
JB
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Post by crabbyjim on Sept 16, 2019 16:17:11 GMT -8
I tried my 1/4 tiny wrench without success. I’ll try again after dinner. What is in there besides the poppet and spring? O rings?
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Post by nikeajax on Sept 16, 2019 16:39:02 GMT -8
CJ, I honestly wouldn't bother: does it move freely? But you do need the nut to move/turn though: it's just the poppet and spring: no o-rings JB EDIT: if you had that much trouble getting the HP assembly back together, you may not like putting a poppet back in...
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Post by vance on Sept 16, 2019 16:54:18 GMT -8
CJ, I will be happy to help you with this. This stuff is my bread and butter. Next time we meet up for a dive I will show you how to do whatever you need to do. I got it, buuudy. So do you.
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Post by SeaRat on Sept 16, 2019 17:52:07 GMT -8
I have finally gotten around to re-assembling my MR-12 (serial number 46327). I am awaiting the rebuild kit that I just ordered and the pieces and parts are in a vinegar/water soak. While I was sorting through my stash, I found another one marked "Titan II, MR-12 in need of an exhaust diaphragm. Now I must find the assembly diagram (again). After re-reading Greg Barlow's post, it appears that I have an early model (Titan II) and a late model (serial number 46327) MR-12. I can hardly wait to try out my chicken-like, close motor skill on these. By the way, thanks to Jaybird I was able to easily remove the exhaust tee's via his hot water soak method. Thanks Jay! Ok, I got serial number 46327 (The one that Phil disassembled in 30 seconds) rebuilt but the second stage free flows. How does one remove the second stage poppet assembly and what tool do you use? (00766) works like a champ. First, there are a couple of things you ought to know. --The poppet is on the other side of the poppet seat assembly (#28; sorry for the confusion on terms, but this is what is in the AMF Voit spec sheet). Hold down the LP lever, and use a wrench to remove the poppet seat. This is one of the only poppets that features a reversible seat. The metal bolt-looking part is that seat, and if you remove it, look at it closely to see if the seat itself is corroded. If it is, and you don't have to remove the corrosion, simply reverse it and stick it back on. If the rubber on the poppet assembly (#30) is in good shape, that may make it seal. If both sides are damaged (unlikely), you can use a pencil eraser on the best one to get some corrosion off it. --if you need to remove the rubber seat, you'll need a wrench to do it (very small) but unlike the USD poppet seats, it is in a square hole, and so you can apply leverage to the lock nut with the wrench and it will come off. It can usually simply be flipped over too. AMF Voit MR-12 Sheet001 by John Ratliff, on Flickr MR-12 Spec Sheet002 by John Ratliff, on Flickr John
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Post by crabbyjim on Sept 16, 2019 19:36:15 GMT -8
I can’t get to the lock nut. The lever is in the way. I have a set of small wrenches but do I need more specialized ones?
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Post by SeaRat on Sept 16, 2019 20:47:09 GMT -8
I can’t get to the lock nut. The lever is in the way. I have a set of small wrenches but do I need more specialized ones? Probably, go to the hardware store and ask for a little round wrench head that will fit over the nut, but inside the lever's confines. They do exist. John PS, I just looked, and what you want is a 1/4 inch round-headed wrench. It fits inside the lever's arms, and allows you to remove the hex nut.
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Post by crabbyjim on Sept 17, 2019 5:21:18 GMT -8
It's off to Ace Hardware on the way home from volunteering at the Aquarium today.
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Post by nikeajax on Sept 17, 2019 10:02:54 GMT -8
To add further confusion, here is the technical jargon of poppet: A poppet valve (also called mushroom valve is a valve typically used to control the timing and quantity of gas or vapour flow into an engine.
It consists of a hole, usually round or oval, and a tapered plug, usually a disk shape on the end of a shaft also called a valve stem. The portion of the hole where the plug meets with it is called the "seat" or "valve seat". The shaft guides the plug portion by sliding through a valve guide. In exhaust applications a pressure differential helps to seal the valve and in intake valves a pressure differential helps open it. The poppet valve was most likely invented in 1833 by E.A.G. Young of the Newcastle and Frenchtown Railroad. Young patented his idea, but the Patent Office fire of 1836 destroyed all records of it.
The word poppet shares etymology with "puppet": it is from the Middle English popet ("youth" or "doll"), from Middle French poupette, which is a diminutive of poupée. The use of the word poppet to describe a valve comes from the same word applied to marionettes, which, like the poppet valve, move bodily in response to remote motion transmitted linearly. In the past, "puppet valve" was a synonym for poppet valve; however, this usage of "puppet" is now obsolete.
The valve stem moves up and down inside the passage called a guide, which is fitted in the engine-block. the head of the valve called valve face, is generally ground to a 45-degree angle, so as to fit properly on the valve seat in the block and prevent leakage.I was fascinated by the etymology and the way the word was literally bastardized! Also, that it's can be called a mushroom-valve JB
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Post by crabbyjim on Sept 17, 2019 13:08:56 GMT -8
Soooo helpful!
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