|
Post by vance on Oct 28, 2017 16:29:15 GMT -8
So, slow week on VSPB. Not much action for such a fun crowd! Let's get something going.... I have a Snark III blue label that is in need of some parts. I have read stuff on line and in various forums (including this one) about subbing parts from USD into the Snark. They are similar in lots of ways, and I think I've read you can use the USD diaphragm, some of the phenoloolybolly washers and such in the Snark to get them up and running. Here's my problem: Before knowing any better, I took mine apart, not knowing there's a tiny pin under the valve assembly. There's a little hole drilled off to the side that is perfect for allowing the pin to drop down inside and get lost before you even know it's there. Which it isn't, because it dropped down the hole. So, I lost the pin. I think I read somewhere that you can cut down a USD pin to fit. Can't find this reference, now. I'm thinking JB might have mentioned this somewhere? I also misplaced the LP spring. That shouldn't be a problem, as I will try to find a similar spring somewhere. Fortunately, I have a second Snark II to compare with, although it's a black label Super. I emailed a guy in Barcelona who has parts. This is great, and he does have the parts I need. However, shipping, at 35 euro, is not optimal. I asked if he could just tape the parts to paper and send a letter envelope, but have not heard back yet. Any tips on parts compatibility? Thanks!
|
|
|
Post by SeaRat on Oct 29, 2017 7:10:30 GMT -8
Unfortunately, I have not been inside my Snark III for quite a while. I really do not know if there are compatibilities with other regulators, but suspect that the Snark III, originating in Spain, is using the Metric system of measurement, and therefore compatible USA parts may not be available.
One thought is to look really hard for the pin that you lost. If it's inside the regulator, it should be available. But if it fell out, you may be able to find it on the floor. (I've done this a few times myself.)
John
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 29, 2017 7:31:18 GMT -8
So, slow week on VSPB. Not much action for such a fun crowd! Let's get something going.... I have a Snark III blue label that is in need of some parts. I have read stuff on line and in various forums (including this one) about subbing parts from USD into the Snark. They are similar in lots of ways, and I think I've read you can use the USD diaphragm, some of the phenoloolybolly washers and such in the Snark to get them up and running. Here's my problem: Before knowing any better, I took mine apart, not knowing there's a tiny pin under the valve assembly. There's a little hole drilled off to the side that is perfect for allowing the pin to drop down inside and get lost before you even know it's there. Which it isn't, because it dropped down the hole. So, I lost the pin. I think I read somewhere that you can cut down a USD pin to fit. Can't find this reference, now. I'm thinking JB might have mentioned this somewhere? I also misplaced the LP spring. That shouldn't be a problem, as I will try to find a similar spring somewhere. Fortunately, I have a second Snark II to compare with, although it's a black label Super. I emailed a guy in Barcelona who has parts. This is great, and he does have the parts I need. However, shipping, at 35 euro, is not optimal. I asked if he could just tape the parts to paper and send a letter envelope, but have not heard back yet. Any tips on parts compatibility? Thanks! Vance, I am not familiar with the Snarks but if you are referring to the pin that opens the HP seat on the US Divers 1st stage, those pins measure 0.063" OD..it is considered wire in raw form..McMaster Carr has these in 5 or 6 foot lengths, stainless steel wire.......I have some short pieces I cut up to 1" lengths when I was producing my MB-Mk3........message me your address and I'll mail you one. You can size and file the ends smooth by hand....no problem. For the spring, if your II has the same size spring...you'll need a caliper.....measure the free length, the od and id and the wire dia.....go to this website 'AxcessSprings' www.acxesspring.com/compression-spring-calculations.html and plug your numbers you find into their calculator, hopefully they have one like your's in stock. (They have about a million, billion different types. Good hunting Ol'Mossback
|
|
|
Post by nikeajax on Oct 29, 2017 7:52:56 GMT -8
Phil, it sounds like our friend from Tey-hoss (Texas) has got ya covered Whenever I can make parts for a reg, I do: it makes that reg just that much morebetter (morbid-er) here's the C3 I made a lever for: And speaking of C3's... Charlie and a third person besides me, sorry I was way too busy coughing up a lung to remember, figured out that the C3-N is merely an R-4 with a duckbill and no second diaphragm... he even pulled out his Dacor service manual so we could figure things out: this question has long vexed my brain JB
|
|
|
Post by vance on Oct 29, 2017 20:04:19 GMT -8
The Snark pin is very similar to the USD 2 stage pins. It is stepped, that is, has two diameters something like the USD DA or a Conshelf pin, but differently. It is also pointed at the small diameter end, as is the USD pin. The DA and Conshelf pins look more like a finish nail, with a slightly enlarged end to fit into the HP (IP?) diaphragm. The Snark pin has a longer thick part which is about 1/3 of the over-all length.
I can't see why a replacement would need to have the longer thick part, so it looks like a Conshelf or Cyclone first stage pin, cut down, will work for the Snark. I tried a DA pin for diameter fit, and it looks good, but it's too short.
It also might be that the Phoenix/Conshelf first stage springs might work as a replacement for my missing Snark second stage spring. I think the first stage phenolic or nylon gasket from the DA will work in the Snark, but I need to try it to be certain. Various other rubber gaskets and such can be made, if necessary.
Thanks for the suggestions and encouragement. I will attempt an overhaul with USD parts just to see if it's a viable solution for the Snark III. I'll take pictures and post my progress.
From OM's post, I'm guessing the pin does not need to be stepped, and the bit of plain wire will work in place of the correct pin? Does it need to be ground to a point like the original?
|
|
|
Post by nikeajax on Oct 30, 2017 7:47:31 GMT -8
Phil, the only reasons I can think of to step the actuator rod/pin is: added rigidity* or allow just that much more airflow through the vein. * I've never seen it happen, only heard of it, but there are stories of USD Connies failing to do anything at depth. As these stories go, the pin is found to be bent when examined... Just making "bubbles" to ad to the conversation JB
|
|
seabob
Senior Diver
Instructor Trainer evaluator through all OW and Tech
Posts: 59
|
Post by seabob on Oct 30, 2017 16:40:36 GMT -8
imageshack.com/a/img922/7429/8S9y5z.jpgI believe this is the pin you are referring to. It is metric. I will measure it and post the measurements. This one is from an old Snark I would sell for parts
|
|
|
Post by vance on Oct 30, 2017 17:45:04 GMT -8
That's the pin. Pls PM me about your parts reg. Thanks!
|
|
|
Post by vance on Oct 30, 2017 17:48:21 GMT -8
Phil, the only reasons I can think of to step the actuator rod/pin is: added rigidity* or allow just that much more airflow through the vein. * I've never seen it happen, only heard of it, but there are stories of USD Connies failing to do anything at depth. As these stories go, the pin is found to be bent when examined... Just making "bubbles" to ad to the conversation JB Yes. I'm being warned that the pin needs support to keep it from bending. I'm not sure what is meant by this, but I've been told there's a support for the pin in USD type regs. I'm wondering if this is the brass tube that extends from the brass diaphragm "button" that the pin sits in? The Snark also has this.
|
|
|
Post by vance on Oct 31, 2017 16:15:18 GMT -8
The USD first stage phenolic gasket seems to fit perfectly in the Snark.
|
|
|
Post by vance on Nov 1, 2017 14:56:57 GMT -8
Here's my recently arrived Conshelf/Phoenix pin, cut down to .417 to match the Snark pin. They are very close in diameter at .060 Snark .062 USD. The thick ends have more of a difference Snark .077, USD .094, but the USD fits in the pin support fine. I assembled it and it seems to work perfectly. Here's some pictures so you can see what is going on: Snark pin on top. HP diaphragm and pin support. The thick end goes into the brass support and the pointy end fits into the nozzle.
|
|
|
Post by vance on Nov 1, 2017 15:51:16 GMT -8
It appears that my pointy end could use some refinement, but I don't think it matters. It's sorta hard to do a twiddly thing with any accuracy, rolling it between thumb and finger against the dremel grinder wheel on such a tiny piece.
I'd chuck it up in the lathe if I could grab onto it, but the nailhead won't let me. And, it's too tiny! The chuck won't grab it. I'd need a clockmaker's lathe. Boy, I'd love to have one, but there's a limit to the stuff I can accumulate, dang it.... When I take it back out to inspect for bendiness after some use, I'll work on it.
|
|
|
Post by nikeajax on Nov 2, 2017 7:12:11 GMT -8
Phil, use a drill's chuck micro-lathe: I use mine to make lots of little parts, and polish out out high pressure seats JB
|
|
|
Post by vance on Nov 2, 2017 16:08:43 GMT -8
OK, you guys knew it had to happen eventually, and I didn't want to disappoint. The Snarubastral rev1!! Yup. Mistral top can, Snark 3 bottom can, Healthways Scuba valve. Exhalation is 2x easier than inhalation. Mought could need a GL valve?
|
|
|
Post by nikeajax on Nov 2, 2017 16:47:01 GMT -8
Your fate awaits you heretic! JB
|
|