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Post by waldenwalrus on May 12, 2018 20:18:32 GMT -8
Hi All,
I was given a New England Divers twin hose regulator today (as well as a Mistral and a Dacor Clipper Model C)
The NED Regulator is a rebadged Sportsways Hydro Twin that looks to be about a 1967 or so, doesn't have a tilt valve. The Diaphragm is pretty crispy, does anybody know if there are any NOS diaphragms available for this? Dare I try to restore it with silicone grease? I want to stay a vintage diver:)
John
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Post by nikeajax on May 13, 2018 5:16:29 GMT -8
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Post by SeaRat on May 13, 2018 6:26:28 GMT -8
I'd try the silicone treatment on the diaphragm, as these were neoprene-impregrated nylon. It may come out okay.
John
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Post by vance on May 13, 2018 9:10:02 GMT -8
Lucky you for the freebies! Is this a rebadged Hydro Twin or a Hydro Twin II? Unfortunately, TSM is out of stock. thescubamuseum.com/Online%20Store/onlinestore.htm#!/Sportsways-Waterlung-main-diaphragm-NOS/p/68541596/category=20208389 I would try to mod a Healthways diaphragm with the plates off the HT, if you can't get a good result from "reconditioning". They are very close to the same diameter and their shape is similar if not the same. I compared my HTII and the Healthways diaphragms. They seem to be the same, PERHAPS the Sportsways is a tiny bit smaller, but that might just be from age and different shrinkage, etc. The Sportsways disks are riveted on with little rivets. You could drop a HW diaphragm in to test for fit and how it would work. You don't need the tab to try one out. Why not post some pics on the HydroTwin and Dacor threads? All of us would love to see them. Phil |
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Post by nikeajax on May 13, 2018 10:44:04 GMT -8
   That's CJ's, not mine, BTW! Phil, I've heard, but can't verify that the dome of the SW is slightly higher/taller... I think a lever adjustment will fix that issue: I think I had to play with CJ's... If you're not worried about purity and actually want to dive it, you could make your own stop like I did for my Healthways model-C Scuba:  Some of them had a stop tab, and others didn't, an' mine did'na! Oh and you can use a standard modern size mushroom on them  JB |
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Post by waldenwalrus on May 14, 2018 10:13:28 GMT -8
I think it is a twin II it doesn't have a tilt valve. Looking through the Sportways catalog it seems to be in the 1967 twin II. Defiantly a keeper. I greased the diaphragm up and have several weeks before I can get into it so I will see what happens. The scuba museum is sold out of diaphragms.
I seem to have a good collection of parts for it in the bin of uncatalogued parts I got from my LDS |
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Post by nikeajax on May 14, 2018 11:53:42 GMT -8
John, you'll have better results if you keep it in a warm, but not hot place: also, put it in a plastic bag for a month or two if you can wait for that long  I've had some pretty amazing results doing that way:  The diaphragm on my "Diver Dick" reg is just as supple as a silicone one: as it's a one of a kind I wanted it to be as OEM as I could make it... Also, you need to massage them: roll, twist, roll... JB |
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Post by SeaRat on May 14, 2018 15:23:48 GMT -8
I think it is a twin II it doesn't have a tilt valve. Looking through the Sportways catalog it seems to be in the 1967 twin II. Defiantly a keeper. I greased the diaphragm up and have several weeks before I can get into it so I will see what happens. The scuba museum is sold out of diaphragms.
I seem to have a good collection of parts for it in the bin of uncatalogued parts I got from my LDS Both the Hydro-Twin and Hydro-Twin II are downstream regulators. It's the Duel Air that is a tilt valve. John |
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Post by vance on May 14, 2018 16:11:45 GMT -8
HT is a unbalanced first, HDII is balanced. You can tell by the HP plunger. If it has a shaft attached, then it's an HTII.  |
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Post by vance on May 14, 2018 16:14:27 GMT -8
Just gluing a tit on the HW diaphragm would also work for the exhaust valve/main diaphragm interface. It's all about which part glues best.... Don't know.
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Post by waldenwalrus on May 15, 2018 3:56:07 GMT -8
It didn't have the bent wire that I thought all tilt valves had, it was a lever. I guess that doesn't not make it a tilt valve. I think it had an over pressure port so I guess that would make it a tilt valve?
I don't want to tear into it now, I'll try to get a few pics up. it will be too much of time lapse to get it back together and I'll forget how (another disadvantage of being a Vintage Diver) |
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Post by nikeajax on May 15, 2018 7:56:17 GMT -8
I don't want to tear into it now, I'll try to get a few pics up. it will be too much of time lapse to get it back together and I'll forget how (another disadvantage of being a Vintage Diver) John, this is a very easy reg to work on, if you get stuck, just PM me, I'll walk you through all of it if need be  Admittedly nothing's as easy as a HW Scuba Star, but this one's very straight forward and there are no surprise parts or tools that are special for it There's a reason why people cherish them as they're built like a...  JB |
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Post by vance on May 15, 2018 10:17:54 GMT -8
Here's a detail of the balanced version like the HTII.  Non-balanced type like the HT and Dual Air.  Parts list. 
These diagrams and the parts list are from Roberts "Basic Scuba". The diagrams are actually for the Dual Air, Navy, and Master Diver regs, but they appear to be the same as the HydroTwin and HydroTwin II first stages. As John said, the Dual Air is a tilt valve second, and the HT and HTII are downstream seconds. All the versions seem to have the same HP diaphragm-side parts (not shown on these diagrams). I removed some detail for clarity. Note the Healthways style HP parts on the non-balanced valve, and the shaft on the plunger in the balanced version. |
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Post by vance on May 15, 2018 10:40:19 GMT -8
Here's the complete diagram. 
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Post by tomcatpc on May 15, 2018 17:01:26 GMT -8
International Harvester?
Mark
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I've had some pretty amazing results doing that way: 
Admittedly nothing's as easy as a HW Scuba Star, but this one's very straight forward and there are no surprise parts or tools that are special for it 
