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Post by sharkskin on Dec 11, 2018 9:42:33 GMT -8
Hello!
Recently, I bought a gorgeous Spirotechnique Royal Mistral (Yes, another one!). And it’s ALMOST spotless... with the exception of two or three very, very small rust spots. I find that pretty tricky to clean precisely because these are so small. Any recommendation on how to remove those without hurting the chrome around? I heard that white vinegar wit a toothbrush, and even Coke applied with a small piece of aluminum foil will do the trick.
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Post by nikeajax on Dec 11, 2018 10:14:02 GMT -8
Hmmmm? I wonder why the aluminum-foil? I know that the acids in Coke, and pro'lly Pepsi too then, will clean copper based metals. These aren't rust though, unless it's on a stainless area, they're copper-alloy, brass, showing through where the chrome plating has been eaten away. The best thing you can do is just keep the area clean so that it doesn't spread any further, and also wipe some silicone-grease on the area to repel the water...
JB
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Post by sharkskin on Dec 11, 2018 11:40:24 GMT -8
Thanks JB.... That's exactly what I want to prevent. I'm afraid that it will continue expanding if not treated. The aluminum trick I saw on YouTube came from guys trying to remove rust on chromes in motorcycles, etc... using it as sandpaper. The guy said that aluminum foil was abrasive/gentle enough to scratch the corroded part and not the chrome.
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Post by nikeajax on Dec 11, 2018 12:02:00 GMT -8
No, that's not really what's happening with the lumoonamum What's actually going on is burnishing: the softer metal, aluminum, is being rubbed into the brass, think of it like drawing with a color-crayon, the wax is going into the pores of the paper Something else you can do is get a very small brush and dab the areas with a clear-coat, like urethane or marine-spar varnish... nez'pa? Jaybird
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Post by nikeajax on Dec 11, 2018 12:39:07 GMT -8
I think what is in the soda-pop is ascorbic-acid, AKA vitamine-C. Lantern collectors like to use soda' because it doesn't turn the brass a red color like vinegar can, personally, it doesn't bother me, just as long as it's clean...
Jaybird
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Post by nikeajax on Dec 11, 2018 14:13:20 GMT -8
I was thinking: if ya wanna fake it better, get some silver paint and carefully dab it into the spots: once it has fully cured, about a week, take some #000 steel wool to it. The chrome is much harder than the steel wool, and as long as you go easy on it, limited amount of time polishing, you should be OK! JB
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Post by technidiver on Dec 11, 2018 16:07:42 GMT -8
50/50 water and vinegar works well too! Don't use pure vinegar for too long or a huge spot! Also, lemon juice works well for small spots of hard to eat-away rust! Jays methods are definitely the better option, but vinegar is a safe option too TD
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Post by technidiver on Dec 11, 2018 19:01:41 GMT -8
Speaking of your Spiro Royal Mistral, do you notice any brass rings around your yoke? Do you use it with Metric or Imperial valves? I just wanted to know because my Spiro Mistral from Phil was designed for metric valves but somebody turned down the threads to fit metric.
TD
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Post by duckbill on Dec 11, 2018 19:37:32 GMT -8
I'd just use regular, old automotive chrome polish or Brasso on a soft towel. Any brass spots will shine up and be hard to see against the chrome. Then wax it to seal.
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Post by sharkskin on Dec 12, 2018 5:53:00 GMT -8
Speaking of your Spiro Royal Mistral, do you notice any brass rings around your yoke? Do you use it with Metric or Imperial valves? I just wanted to know because my Spiro Mistral from Phil was designed for metric valves but somebody turned down the threads to fit metric. TD I'd just use regular, old automotive chrome polish or Brasso on a soft towel. Any brass spots will shine up and be hard to see against the chrome. Then wax it to seal. Thanks everyone! I started with the aluminum foil by itself and worked great! I would love to share pics but I haven’t figure out how to do that here:/ Technidiver, in regards to your question, I bought this regulator in Europe so I’m pretty sure it uses metric system. I would love to convert it ... But I don’t know anywone who could do that. Any recommendations from our vintage scuba family?
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Post by technidiver on Dec 12, 2018 10:25:13 GMT -8
Speaking of your Spiro Royal Mistral, do you notice any brass rings around your yoke? Do you use it with Metric or Imperial valves? I just wanted to know because my Spiro Mistral from Phil was designed for metric valves but somebody turned down the threads to fit metric. TD I'd just use regular, old automotive chrome polish or Brasso on a soft towel. Any brass spots will shine up and be hard to see against the chrome. Then wax it to seal. Thanks everyone! I started with the aluminum foil by itself and worked great! I would love to share pics but I haven’t figure out how to do that here:/ Technidiver, in regards to your question, I bought this regulator in Europe so I’m pretty sure it uses metric system. I would love to convert it ... But I don’t know anywone who could do that. Any recommendations from our vintage scuba family? I'm not expert with a lathe, nor am I a machinist. However, if you take it to a machinist and turn down the yoke nozzle a bit, it should fit. If you need a measurement or some pictures PM me and I can give my email address to send some pictures. TD
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Post by vance on Dec 12, 2018 14:59:23 GMT -8
Speaking of your Spiro Royal Mistral, do you notice any brass rings around your yoke? Do you use it with Metric or Imperial valves? I just wanted to know because my Spiro Mistral from Phil was designed for metric valves but somebody turned down the threads to fit metric. TD I think this pic shows what TD means: Note the brass showing at the HP valve to tank valve interface. I did not turn this part down myself. It was this way when I got the regulator.
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Post by technidiver on Dec 12, 2018 15:40:02 GMT -8
Thank you for posting that photo Phil, that's exactly what I'm talking about! I'm guessing it was a few mm that was taken off, probably 2mm.
According to VDH, some arrived in the US with metric valves that were machined, and others came stock with imperial valves. I guess there's not much about this whole situation as the Spiro Mistrals and Royals aren't as common as their USD counter parts in North America.
TD
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Post by technidiver on Dec 12, 2018 15:41:29 GMT -8
Phil, the hoses are in excellent shape too. Spirotechnique really made some good hoses. I don't think I'll have to replace them. Shark, what about you? Your Royal probably came with that fancy mouthpiece right, I think it's called the Aqua-Stop?
TD
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Post by sharkskin on Dec 12, 2018 18:16:52 GMT -8
Phil, the hoses are in excellent shape too. Spirotechnique really made some good hoses. I don't think I'll have to replace them. Shark, what about you? Your Royal probably came with that fancy mouthpiece right, I think it's called the Aqua-Stop? TD Yes Technidiver.... It came with the newer rubbery/plastic mouthpiece and a strange neck strap. Ps: How do you guys manage to upload images here??? I added mine to Flickr and copied/pasted link using 'image' icon.
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