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Post by technidiver on Jun 15, 2019 12:37:41 GMT -8
Need some help removing the bonnet to access the J valve on the J-62 valve. It's frozen. I've already ruined one because I stripped the bonnet nut, but that was months ago. Don't want to ruin this one.  TD |
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Post by nikeajax on Jun 15, 2019 13:07:48 GMT -8
Well, judging by your beverage choices (in the background) it looks like you're already fortified for the task!  Not owning one of them I can't say fer shur: I wonder if you could use a little heat?!?!?!? Again, I d'know, I just needed to make a smart @$$ comment  JB |
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Post by snark3 on Jun 15, 2019 13:22:03 GMT -8
TD- Working on cars I've had good luck heating things with a torch, (either small butane from Harbor Freight or a regular propane plumbers) and while its hot spray PB Blaster on the frozen threads. I recommend doing this outside and carefully because if the heated item is too hot the PB Blaster may ignite. I've found that when its hot the PB Blaster will actually be drawn into the threads.
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Post by nikeajax on Jun 15, 2019 13:34:21 GMT -8
If there are nylon parts in there you may not want to use the PB' though: you can't get that shtuff out of plastic--GRRRRR! But, on the other hand if you are going to replace them, by all means! Heck, ya may not even need to use a torch, jus' let it sit o'er night, it works great!
JB
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Post by SeaRat on Jun 15, 2019 20:57:18 GMT -8
As JB noted, there is a nylon washer under that nut, and heat could destroy it. There is also valving behind, accessible from the manifold side only, that you need to access. I'd suggest using a penetrating oil, and letting it sit for a long time, before trying to remove the nut.
I'd show you a photo, but both Flikr and Photobucket are in a phase whereby you need to either sign up for more storage (Photobucket) and pay a fee or sign into Yahoo and create an account three (Flikr), making both temporarily unavailable.
John
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Post by herman on Jun 16, 2019 3:22:15 GMT -8
I would put it in boiling water for 5-10 minutes then try removing the bonnet. Boiling water adds a lot of heat but at the same time avoids overheating it to the point you damage internal rubber parts which is easy with a torch. If that does not work, put it in the freezer over night, then dip the end in boiling water for a minute and try again. Soaking in a vinegar solution may help but I wouldn't use PB blaster. It stinks and is darn near impossible to scrub off.
Use a 6 point socket and try tightening it slightly. If you get any movement, rock it back and forth, it will move more and more until it comes off.
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Post by technidiver on Jun 16, 2019 7:25:45 GMT -8
Well, judging by your beverage choices (in the background) it looks like you're already fortified for the task! Not owning one of them I can't say fer shur: I wonder if you could use a little heat?!?!?!? Again, I d'know, I just needed to make a smart @$$ comment JB I asked one of my friends who was a chemical technician if Coke was any good other than drinking and he gave me a good hint. Use it for oil on parts. Something about the phosphoric acid reacting to the oil and removing it. Also good for drinking  TD |
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Post by technidiver on Jun 16, 2019 7:27:20 GMT -8
TD- Working on cars I've had good luck heating things with a torch, (either small butane from Harbor Freight or a regular propane plumbers) and while its hot spray PB Blaster on the frozen threads. I recommend doing this outside and carefully because if the heated item is too hot the PB Blaster may ignite. I've found that when its hot the PB Blaster will actually be drawn into the threads. That's a good idea Snark, I happen to have a mini torch that runs on butane and is high heat over a low surface area. I can use that as well as a bit of PB, who knows it might work. I happen to have some empty tanks that I can screw the valve into and use that for mechanical advantage when I try to remove the bonnet with a wrench or socket. TD |
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Post by technidiver on Jun 16, 2019 7:28:43 GMT -8
As JB noted, there is a nylon washer under that nut, and heat could destroy it. There is also valving behind, accessible from the manifold side only, that you need to access. I'd suggest using a penetrating oil, and letting it sit for a long time, before trying to remove the nut. I'd show you a photo, but both Flikr and Photobucket are in a phase whereby you need to either sign up for more storage (Photobucket) and pay a fee or sign into Yahoo and create an account three (Flikr), making both temporarily unavailable. John I've got plenty of time, no rush on getting this thing off. And a lot of penetrating oil too. John, as for the images, look up a site called ImgBB. I use that and no issues. Free too! TD |
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Post by technidiver on Jun 16, 2019 7:30:34 GMT -8
I would put it in boiling water for 5-10 minutes then try removing the bonnet. Boiling water adds a lot of heat but at the same time avoids overheating it to the point you damage internal rubber parts which is easy with a torch. If that does not work, put it in the freezer over night, then dip the end in boiling water for a minute and try again. Soaking in a vinegar solution may help but I wouldn't use PB blaster. It stinks and is darn near impossible to scrub off. Use a 6 point socket and try tightening it slightly. If you get any movement, rock it back and forth, it will move more and more until it comes off. I might try a dunk in vinegar and then blow all the vinegar and water out with some compressed air and then throw it in the freezer and try the hot water method. Herman I've got a somewhat stupid question. Does the bonnet screw out counterclockwise or clockwise? I heard something about some Valves actually tightening when you spin them counterclockwise and getting looser when you spin them clockwise. TD |
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Post by nikeajax on Jun 16, 2019 11:00:20 GMT -8
TD, if you do freeze it, don't try the water method: you'll be wasting your time! But if you don't get any results with Herman's method, which will pro'lly work, try the freezing method, then quickly brush a torch past it. Not too hot, but hit the part that's bigger/raised (opposite side on the image): this will cause the metal to expand unevenly allowing you to hopefully get a super fast wrench on it while the bonnet is still cold--work quickly!!!!! What are you going to put it on? Just trying to make conversation JB |
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Post by herman on Jun 18, 2019 2:04:18 GMT -8
It's standard right hand thread. I think I have some salvage valves if you need parts...free for the shipping. Capt Tom has a good rebuild procedure in the Manuals and Catalogs section of VDH you might want to take a look at.
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Post by technidiver on Jun 23, 2019 13:28:54 GMT -8
Okay so here's the update: I dipped it in coke and luckily after turning it the right way and using a socket/driver combination (had to drill it out a bit and modify it) I got the end cap off and got into the valve. No problem! For reassembly there is the hex cap that screws inside and has the J valve seat and spring + washers. Everything was good except the seat, but I replaced that with a spare I had from the valve I messed up on. I'll check Captain Toms manual, and if I need some spare Valves I'll contact you in the future Herman. JB, I plan to make a second set of doubles, this time with a J valve TD |
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