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Post by vance on Sept 9, 2019 12:07:18 GMT -8
Remember what the Dacor 2500 pin looks like. It is a square sided thing with a pin at one end. The square fits down a hole that is about 3/16" deep and the pin goes through a smaller hole and contacts the HP seat. There is no dimple in the seat to center the pin. So, the square centers, aligns, and supports the pin.
A simple straight 1/16" pin would probably not work w/o some kind of system like the DA setup, anyway. The pin would be about 1/4"-3/8" long and unsupported. It'd need a little block like the original pin to hold everything in alignment. That could be done by drilling a hole through a bit of square stock or a HW pin and slipping a straight pin through it, but that seems like a lot for no real difference. It would work for making a replacement for a lost or damaged one, I guess. I think the original pin is the way to go.
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Post by vance on Sept 9, 2019 18:09:10 GMT -8
I recently got a really pristine R-3 but with a badly bent yoke. Not sure how that happened, and I was very concerned that the first stage body was damaged from the torque/bash it would've taken to bend it so. I tried to straighten it, but no way. I tried remove the HP nozzle from the body, but the outrageous pressure I put on the nozzle with a BFW (to no avail) started to round the hex. Whoa! No movement whatsoever....
I have a piece of strap iron I drilled to match the HP nozzle screw holes, screwed it on and mounted it in a vise, gripping the iron, not the nozzle. I heated it for some time, and tried the wrench again and got it to turn! Success! I got the nozzle out and found the first stage body was undamaged. JB's donor parts included a nice yoke, so that got installed on the reg, and it will end up a beautiful example of the R-3!
The factory must have put some kind of sealant on the HP nozzle to make sure they didn't leak around the threads. I've run into nearly impossible to remove nozzles before. What is that stuff?
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Post by SeaRat on Sept 9, 2019 21:33:59 GMT -8
I recently got a really pristine R-3 but with a badly bent yoke. Not sure how that happened, and I was very concerned that the first stage body was damaged from the torque/bash it would've taken to bend it so. I tried to straighten it, but no way. I tried remove the HP nozzle from the body, but the outrageous pressure I put on the nozzle with a BFW (to no avail) started to round the hex. Whoa! No movement whatsoever.... I have a piece of strap iron I drilled to match the HP nozzle screw holes, screwed it on and mounted it in a vise, gripping the iron, not the nozzle. I heated it for some time, and tried the wrench again and got it to turn! Success! I got the nozzle out and found the first stage body was undamaged. JB's donor parts included a nice yoke, so that got installed on the reg, and it will end up a beautiful example of the R-3! The factory must have put some kind of sealant on the HP nozzle to make sure they didn't leak around the threads. I've run into nearly impossible to remove nozzles before. What is that stuff? Congratulations Phil, That R-3 should be really fun to dive. John
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Post by vance on Sept 10, 2019 14:47:19 GMT -8
Here's a couple of pictures of the HP spring I'm missing. I'll measure it when I take it back out of the R-2. The mod to the R-2/3 HP hardware didn't work perfectly, since it leaks past the setscrew. The IP on it was 150 psig on a 1500 psig tank with the adjuster backed all the way out, so the reg might need some tweaking. This may be what these things run, which isn't necessarily a bad thing for them. Running at lower than 110-120 psig would limit performance, so the mod would be a good thing to do only in that case. Next step is to re-install the original diaphragm to see if the IP is as high. If so, I'd like to drop it a few psig so that it isn't running 160-70 at 500 psig tank pressure, so I might try trimming the pin length a tad. Once this is done, and the IP range is good, this reg doesn't need an adjuster! So what's the point? I have a couple other R-3s that I'll check out to see if they are running low IP, and if they need a boost, I'll work on this some more.
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Post by vance on Sept 14, 2019 7:46:58 GMT -8
I've located some parts, so the R-3 experiment can move forward (thanks, Howard!). At least, if it cools down enough for me to spend some time in my garage turning the parts and doing some other projects. This is Summer where I live (into late October sometimes) and we've had some unusually hot days this week.
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Post by crabbyjim on Sept 14, 2019 12:27:40 GMT -8
Bring it to Monterey and we’ll dive it. I still have 1800 psi left from our previous dives.
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Post by vance on Sept 14, 2019 13:53:16 GMT -8
You always have a zinger for me CJ! You've probably got two dives on that tank. However, I wouldn't attempt to dive this in the ocean. If you'd like to dive it let me know!
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Post by crabbyjim on Sept 14, 2019 14:27:44 GMT -8
Bring something that you can dive with.
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Post by SeaRat on Sept 14, 2019 17:41:57 GMT -8
Here's a couple of pictures of the HP spring I'm missing. I'll measure it when I take it back out of the R-2. The mod to the R-2/3 HP hardware didn't work perfectly, since it leaks past the setscrew. The IP on it was 150 psig on a 1500 psig tank with the adjuster backed all the way out, so the reg might need some tweaking. This may be what these things run, which isn't necessarily a bad thing for them. Running at lower than 110-120 psig would limit performance, so the mod would be a good thing to do only in that case. Next step is to re-install the original diaphragm to see if the IP is as high. If so, I'd like to drop it a few psig so that it isn't running 160-70 at 500 psig tank pressure, so I might try trimming the pin length a tad. Once this is done, and the IP range is good, this reg doesn't need an adjuster! So what's the point? I have a couple other R-3s that I'll check out to see if they are running low IP, and if they need a boost, I'll work on this some more. Phil, You'd never guess what I'm looking at right now. I have a ziploc bag holding the entire innards of a R-3, including the HP spring. I think I gat it from an E-Bay purchase with a really banged up R-3. Anyway, I have my R-2, R-3 and R-4/Clipper all together and functioning, and need to get rid of some of my "junk." Would you like me to send this to you? If so, please PM me your address. John
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Post by vance on Sept 14, 2019 20:57:31 GMT -8
John, PM sent!
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Post by nikeajax on Sept 15, 2019 14:09:44 GMT -8
Hey guys; if ya wanna torment Phil, give him like three or four parts of some obscure regulator and watch what he does: this is the surest way in which to get a complete reg built (I do the same thing but I had to give my friend some c**p) I used to have a friend who built an entire 1930 Chrysler Imperial roadster this way: he started out with just one front fender JB
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Post by vance on Sept 15, 2019 16:37:11 GMT -8
Doggone-it JB! Don't tell them that! It's a curse. And I've got a bunch of orphan parts coming my way..... I'm trying to get rid of stuff, not accumulate more. Watch it or I'll send you a random part or two.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2019 17:17:22 GMT -8
Hey guys; if ya wanna torment Phil, give him like three or four parts of some obscure regulator and watch what he does: this is the surest way in which to get a complete reg built (I do the same thing but I had to give my friend some c**p) I used to have a friend who built an entire 1930 Chrysler Imperial roadster this way: he started out with just one front fender JB That is how I built my 1952 K model Harley Chopper......found the engine in a wrecking yard for crashed bikes.
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Post by vance on Oct 12, 2020 14:46:58 GMT -8
Old thread, but I'm working on several of these right now. Diaphragms, both HP and LP, are difficult to find for all Dacor DH regs. Yes, I whine about that constantly.... But, another issue for the 2500s is the LP seat. I have tried several ways to fix these, but I think my new one works best. Somewhere out there I'd seen that someone had modded a Dacor 2500 lever by drilling a hole in it, then bolting a DAAM poppet to it. Sorta kludgy? Vance subconsciously digests this information for years... and years.... And voila! Some niggly thing wakes him up in the middle of the night. Huh. Solder it on.... I had a couple of USD DA type poppets with broken stems lying around, as well as a couple of very worn out 2500 LP seat levers. So.... I dug the old seat out of the lever, cut the stem off of the USD poppet, cleaned them both up, and silversoldered the USD seat holder to the Dacor lever. For the 10 people in the world who care about this (optimistic?), it is another step forward...
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Post by SeaRat on Oct 12, 2020 15:14:17 GMT -8
I'm one of the ten people in the world who cares; GO PHIL!
John
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