|
Post by james1979 on Jun 13, 2023 6:27:45 GMT -8
In my Trieste, with a formed duckbill and new silicone diaphragm, the duckbill was completely blocked on exhale, even with a new intake non-return in the m-p. On the Trieste I have tried a modified duckbill eliminator, new type silicone duckbill from The Scuba Museum, and the simple flat silicone duckbill from VDH. Due only to the limited depth of the stock Trieste exhale can the only thing that works well for me has been the flat silicone duckbill. On most other double hose regs the flat duckbill would be my last choice of the three. I have a design for a new exhaust side can for the Trieste, but the printer that could print it is down for a failed hot end, and I haven't bought a resin printer yet. Rest assured, though, the potential solution is designed.....
|
|
|
Post by antique diver on Jun 13, 2023 8:50:03 GMT -8
On the Trieste I have tried a modified duckbill eliminator, new type silicone duckbill from The Scuba Museum, and the simple flat silicone duckbill from VDH. Due only to the limited depth of the stock Trieste exhale can the only thing that works well for me has been the flat silicone duckbill. On most other double hose regs the flat duckbill would be my last choice of the three. I have a design for a new exhaust side can for the Trieste, but the printer that could print it is down for a failed hot end, and I haven't bought a resin printer yet. Rest assured, though, the potential solution is designed..... Hey "Re-inventor" [of all things scuba]... good to hear you are tackling that under-sized exhaust can!
|
|
|
Post by vance on Apr 7, 2024 15:23:09 GMT -8
I just picked up a set of Trieste cans and some other odds and ends. The top can is pretty bent. It looks like a tip-over, and the intake horn had been pushed down and in. The bottom box has been punched out of round as well. I looked the cans over and decided they are clean enough that it is worth trying to straighten them. It is actually necessary, since they are distorted so much they won't work without truing them up. After cleaning a bit, I started working on the downward angle of the intake horn. I installed a first stage body and tightened down the ring to stabilize the opening of the can. After some tentative pulling and bending, I went after it and got the horn level. Then, I attacked the punched in aspect. I got that pretty well pulled out. It's not perfect, but I don't think I can get any more the way I was going about it.
Now, I have a very out of round top box, but the major damage has been rectified.
I need to make a round expanding/squeezing form, either inside or outside, that I can force the can back to round with. Inside would potentially push the intake horn opening further out to true, so I might try that first. After re-rounding, the flange will need to be made flat all the way around, but that's cake. Of course, this set of cans will get a Titan II conversion/upgrade. More to follow!
|
|
|
Post by vance on Apr 8, 2024 12:18:11 GMT -8
Almost ready to go back in the water! I was able to get the top box back to almost perfectly round and the flanges flat by hook and crook. The Titan II has a VTP second stage and lever. It is not a Trieste clone, but I might make some more of them.
|
|
|
Post by vance on Apr 8, 2024 16:31:17 GMT -8
I'll need to do some more cleaning, and the duckbill issue needs to be addressed. I need a flat silicone DB, since the formed ones don't work. Does anyone have some extras? I'd trade for formed ones, or $.
|
|
|
Post by SeaRat on Apr 8, 2024 16:48:21 GMT -8
The formed duckbill will work, but you need to cut off the top part of it to make it fit the smaller can. IMG_0013 by John Ratliff, on Flickr Here's my Trieste II, and it does have a formed duckbill in it. John
|
|
|
Post by vance on Apr 9, 2024 8:11:47 GMT -8
As discussed above, the James diaphragm interferes with the formed DB.
|
|