Post by Broxton Carol on Apr 2, 2009 10:56:31 GMT -8
Why waste time with obsolete nylon? You had to tighten the hell out of those old broXtons to get a seal, and thats why so many of the yoke screws are bent. Just go to the hardware store, buy a few THICK fender washers, then cut them with an arch punch from harbor freight. Then you got a hard RUBBER seat in there that tightens easily, and seals perfectly. Hope this helps. Chucko
Hi Chuck: A RUBBER fender washer?? I guess I've never seen one of them; I've always seen those that are steel. The funny thing is; is that I work at a building supply, and we have a hardware store (True Value) section, and unfortunately we don't carry anything like that. You can bet I'll be checking out our supply books tomorrow. I really like the idea you presented and wondered why that was not how it was done to begin with. It just seems like the rubber seat would certainly tighten much more easily than nylon and would give a much more reliable seal. As always; "Thanks" for you input. Terry
They will make almost anything you can imagine out of rubber and prices are very reasonable (they've made parts for me for almost free out of rubber scrap from other jobs). Don't tell them if you need parts for a regulator, life support system, just make something up (or they wont make what you want). They specialize in farm equipment, like tractor parts and irrigation pump parts, but can make most anything. Hope this is helpful. Is there a company like this close to were you live?
Hi Robert: I also found your post interesting in regards to having this part made, and as a matter of fact there are some businesses in the area where I could probably have these made. I appreciate the link you posted, and I'll be sure to keep it for reference if needed. The really good news is that I think I found a washer that is a near perfect replacement. As per Chuck's recommendation I stopped at the local hardware store (Ace) yesterday and found a part in the plumbing department. The part is a Danco (Stk. No. 35069B) 1/2 flat faucet washer. If I'm correct it should be found at any Ace Hardware under code number 45085; provided that this is an Ace Hardware code number for this specific product. I finally conceded the other night to remove the original washer from this valve, and with a great deal of patience, exacto knife and small screw driver I was able to remove it without nicking it up too much. In fact I think it could be resurfaced by gently rubbing each surface with some fine emery paper if I should want to try to re-use it. The measurements of the original white nylon washer are 3/4 O.D, and 3/8 I.D. The new Danko washer that I bought is almost perfect since the thickness of it, and the 3/4 O.D. are the same. The only modification I had to make to it was to enlarge the small hole in the center. To do that I placed the original washer over the new one and with a sharp pencil traced the I.D. onto the new washer. The pencil lead made a clear enough mark that I could see where to place my hollow punch to make the new hole. Unfortunately I didn't have a 3/8 punch; but I did have a 25/64 (10mm) which was close enough that it worked perfectly. To install; I cleaned and applied a light coat of silicone to the recess on the face of the valve with a q-tip; placed the new washer into place, and when I tightened my reg into place it slid right back into place without any problems. I turned on the air, and NO LEAKS; it appears to be working perfectly! ;D The only other modification I should mention that should be done is to use a razor blade, exacto knife or something similar to remove a very small marking on one side of the washer. On one side near the center there is a very small raised lettered 1/2 that is part of the molded washer. This should very carefully be removed to make sure you have a flat surface to prevent a place for any leaks. Thanks again for everyone's input and help, and I hope this info is of some help to someone. Terry
Post by scubadiverbob on Apr 15, 2009 7:15:50 GMT -8
Do you know what type of rubber the washer is made from? EDPM (The E refers to Ethylene, P to Propylene, D to diene and M refers to its classification in ASTM standard D-1418)? The type of rubber might determine how long the washer will last under pressure and how well it will seal.
Here is another site you might find useful: www.oringswest.com 1-888-722-2602 While their min. orders are high; they have a section that list specs for different types of rubber materials, which might be useful in selecting o-rings for diving purposes.
Ok, I don't think I'm "certified" to provide you information on this; but, if I were to get o-rings I'd look for tear resistance, water resistance, tensile strength .... I only have a B.S. in Industrial Technology .... worked at two dive stores ..... dove most of my life; but, only got a AOW c-card; not a "Repair Technician" piece of paper. With that in mind; I'm just giving you useful information; not advice.
Robert: That's some pretty interesting and useful info that you posted in regards to classification, and the sealing capabailities of these washers and o-rings. Thanks for posting it, and I'll be sure to print out a copy of your post for future reference. Being a member of this website and also VDH; I've always found it very interesting when it comes to the wealth of knowledge that is available at both sites when you consider the fact that the members of these sites come from all walks of life. Back to the topic of this washer for this j valve; I should mention that Charlie sent me one of those split 0-rings, and it works GREAT ;D; with no leaks whatsoever. Thanks again to all, and I hope to see some of you at some of this summers vintage events! Terry