drado
Pro Diver
Posts: 186
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Post by drado on May 7, 2012 14:54:05 GMT -8
Eh, mea culpa, I wrote the wrong email address above: Its aandd_adventures@yahoo.com. Soweee!
As for the new HW diaphragm, since it has a generous lip on it, maybe it can withstand a bit of "shaving" around the edges to make it fit SW cans better. Also, since the centers are just riveted in just like the originals, it would be very easy to replace the external plate with the one currently on your SW diaphragm.
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Post by nikeajax on May 7, 2012 17:12:47 GMT -8
One again Ed, you and I think alike ;D
Jaybird
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Post by sitkadiver on May 8, 2012 10:30:17 GMT -8
LP stim holder Here's the question I have. When I got it, the small hole faced the oriface; shouldn't the large hole face it for better venturi effect and better breathing? Like was it assembled wrong last time it was serviced? What is the IP supposed to be set at? I still am looking for a service manual ... which would provide answers to both questions.   Bob, I had the same quesiton with mine: The small was facing the intake hose when I disassembled it. John also advised me to turn it around, which I did. It seems to breath a bit better, but I cannot tell if it's due to the larger venturi hole, or just being reassembled. I just bought a HW silicone disphragm from The Scuba Museum and plan to trim it to fit my New England divers. I'll let you know how it works out. As far as IP, mine is set pretty high, around 150 if I remember correctly. I used a 300 PSI tank and set it until it free flowed and then backed down 1/8 a turn. |
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Post by nikeajax on May 8, 2012 12:26:51 GMT -8
Robert, Dave and EVERYONE ELSE, I sure hope you guys can get those regs back up to snuff: I want to gag whenever I hear someone complaining about anything not USD or Voiit, because it ALWAYS turns out their diaphragms are as supple as cardboard. 
Bully for you boys!Jaybird |
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Post by sitkadiver on May 11, 2012 7:45:32 GMT -8
Well, I tried the HW diaphragm and it was a no-go. The new Healthways Diaphragms work awesome in my Healthways regs, but the design isn't conducive to use in the Sportways DH. The difference wa truely amazing how the new HW diaphragms are the bomb digidee on HW regs, but they don't play well with the SW's. I am assuming it has to do with the lever height as I'll explain. Also, the SW has the downstream valve, and not a compound lever. You can see the size difference is not too great.   I was actually able to fit the HW diaphragm into the SW can by puching the rounded cavity of the HW diaphragm down further into the can that it is supposed to go: But that took away from the diaphragm's abilitty to flex and it breathed very hard. It worked, just not very well.  After that I trimmed the HW diaphragm very carefully with some sharp scissors and fit back into place. I say "fit", but in reality it dropped right in.  I put the reg back on a tank with about 200 psi in it to test. This was where I found that the HW diaphragm does not have the travel needed to really open the down stream valve on the Sportways DH.  The breathing did get better as I adjusted the SW lever higher than it was already set. It free flowed so I backed the IP down a bit, then kept trying to get more lever height. but in the end, I could not get the lever to go high enough to make it breathe very well. Good news is that, since I have a NOS diaphragm for the SW(also purchased form The Scuba Museum) I was able to really tune the reg with as much lever height as I have yet to put on it. My next dive will be with the New England Diver DH to see how much better my tuning job was. One thing I discovered in this experiment was that the IP can be adjusted by hand and no wrench is needed. If you hear it free flow, back the IP off and then turn it by hand until IP adjustment stops. This method seems to find the sweet spot for IP adjustment fairly regularly. |
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Post by scubadiverbob on May 12, 2012 7:58:21 GMT -8
The breathing did get better as I adjusted the SW lever higher than it was already set. It free flowed so I backed the IP down a bit, then kept trying to get more lever height. but in the end, I could not get the lever to go high enough to make it breathe very well. My next dive will be with the New England Diver DH to see how much better my tuning job was. One thing I discovered in this experiment was that the IP can be adjusted by hand and no wrench is needed. If you hear it free flow, back the IP off and then turn it by hand until IP adjustment stops. This method seems to find the sweet spot for IP adjustment fairly regularly. When you found the "sweet spot for IP adjustment" what was the IP set at? 140 psi? I'm going to go look for a Hydro Twin Service manual today. If I don't find one, I like to know. If I find one, I'll share info with all who need it .... Robert |
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Post by scubadiverbob on May 12, 2012 8:12:51 GMT -8
Well, I'm leaving soon to get Andrew another bc (he has a dacor bladderless and when he's underwater I can watch bubbles come out of it; like, it's sorta really messed up) and try and find a Hydro Twin manual and maybe some Hydro Twin parts ....
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Post by scubadiverbob on May 12, 2012 8:13:34 GMT -8
Like, wish me luck !!!
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Post by cnotthoff on May 12, 2012 9:43:27 GMT -8
Bob, What parts do you need for reg?
Charlie
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Post by scubadiverbob on May 14, 2012 1:14:09 GMT -8
I need, from what I can tell, a HP diaphram, and maybe the o-ring part 48 on the diagram being passed around (I have one that might be really close to the right size, and a Hope-paige mouthpiece (dreaming there). With the o-ring and HP diaphram I can probably get it working right ... An new diaphram would be nice; but, the old one doesn't have any holes or cracks in it. It's also missing hoses ... they are pretty easy to get ...
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Post by scubadiverbob on May 29, 2012 14:04:28 GMT -8
 Here is where I'm at now .... Had HP diaphrams made, with CI rubber (same as NOS), for the Hydro Twin. Cost me $2.08 each (for both types). To get the screw out of the old one, with no damage, it has to be placed in the chuck of a lathe and the nut removed. Same procedure used to tighten the nut. If anyone is interested in the HP diaphrams, just PM me. I had five extras made of each. I can get more made at the same price. Robert |
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Post by scubadiverbob on May 30, 2012 20:20:34 GMT -8
Project is almost done! Put the body on a tank of air today and it works great! Ok, I just need hoses, mouthpiece (hopefully original), and if I'm lucky a new lp diaphram (original works ok). I'm liking the Hydro Twin (I think mine happens to be a Hydro Twin II) and one feature I really like over the RAM and DA is you don't have to open the cans to adjust the IP. If I can get the large diaphram, I can get it working like new! I'm happy ... maybe, I can get Andrew to try it out in the pool and get the Mk 7 back (I doubt it, though!) ... just a thought ... it's his project.
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Post by scubadiverbob on May 30, 2012 20:41:48 GMT -8
I need to get info on making silicon diaphrams ... maybe, I'll have to make me one. Probably just have to make a mold and pour the rubber; they don't look injection molded. I wonder if I would still have access to the Fanuc Machining Center at school? It would be really easy to make a mold using it. I graduated from CSU Chico in 1995 and all the instructors I had are retired ... don't know anyone there anymore; but, one person told me all the CNC stuff is still there ....
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Post by diverdon on Mar 28, 2014 17:54:07 GMT -8
Did you ever get this project finished Robert?
Don
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Post by surflung on Apr 2, 2014 13:33:02 GMT -8
- In Case You are still needing a diaphragm, the Scuba Museum has a few New Old Stock diaphragms for $45. See Hydro Twin diaphragm |
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