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Post by tomcatpc on Oct 25, 2016 19:53:32 GMT -8
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Post by nikeajax on Oct 26, 2016 13:04:10 GMT -8
Mark, check it out bruddah, the HW and the SW are the same gauge--SNORT! The bezels and faces were changed to protect the innocent. JB
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Post by diverdon on Oct 26, 2016 16:40:03 GMT -8
Mark, check it out bruddah, the HW and the SW are the same gauge--SNORT! The bezels and faces were changed to protect the innocent. JB I have those two and an Imperial that all appear to be the same. DD
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Post by tomcatpc on Oct 26, 2016 19:12:49 GMT -8
As the US Divers "SEA-DIV" or some name similar... Mark
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Post by tomcatpc on Oct 28, 2016 19:14:01 GMT -8
Healthways SPG with Scuba Star. Sportsways "Sea-Vue" SPG with US Divers Calypso-J. US Divers SPG from early 1980's with 1970 era US Divers Conshelf IX. Mark
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Post by tomcatpc on Oct 28, 2016 19:19:16 GMT -8
I'm starting to love the 80's era US Divers SPG, even though it is newer. I had it on my Calypso-J, but swapped it out when I got the more era correct Sportsways Sea-Vue. The US Divers SPG then replaced a SPG/Depth gauge combo on the Conshelf. I like it better because it is a bit more trim that the bulky SPG/DG "console" that was on before.
When I wear a depth gauge on my wrist and also am starting to use a dive computer (hey...sorry, getting used to it, but still can dive without), I don't need another depth gauge hanging on a hose... Like using less, and a lot of the time I don't use an SPG (gasp!!!), as I've gained faith in the the J-Valve (don't tell anyone...).
I'm working on sorting out a late 70's Dacor SPG for my MR-12, until I can find a Swimaster SPG from the 70's.
I'm wondering how long the rubber covering on the Sportsway SPG will last? It has a small tear and is dry, might do the soak with silicone grease for a day or so and see if that helps. If it does not last, that is fine too. It does work though, at least the two times I tried it today, above the water. Mark
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Post by nikeajax on Oct 28, 2016 19:22:01 GMT -8
Mark, didn't you get this reg from that really weird guy, you know, what's his name, geez, I can't stand that guy Huh... that white boot/cover on the USD gauge looks pretty swell too! JB
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Post by tomcatpc on Oct 28, 2016 19:28:26 GMT -8
I got that from some dude in the Bay Area...
The boot on the US Divers SPG is actually yellow in real life. I do like that gauge as well, like how it looks and the size, not some big dangly three gauge console swinging all around. Just a simple gauge to tell me how much air is left, and to watch the needle swing when I breath, due to also using a J-Valve... Mark
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Post by tomcatpc on Oct 28, 2016 19:31:44 GMT -8
I'm guessing that a lot of the circa 1950's to 1970's SPG were made by the some company in Italy and just rebranded with the dive companies name? The Healthways, Sportsways "Sea-Vue", I think that US Divers had one called the "Sea-Div"? and also think Dacor had a similar SPG...they are look like the same thing with just a difference face.
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Post by nikeajax on Oct 29, 2016 8:10:48 GMT -8
Actually, quite typical of Dacor at the time, they also had their own SPG! I think this is the worst regulator I've ever tried, breathingwise that is: I haven't measured it, but the cracking effort is insane, your lungs get a good work out. Perhaps someone with lungs like Jack Lalanne would mind it... JB
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Post by SeaRat on Oct 29, 2016 8:47:39 GMT -8
Actually, quite typical of Dacor at the time, they also had their own SPG! I think this is the worst regulator I've ever tried, breathingwise that is: I haven't measured it, but the cracking effort is insane, your lungs get a good work out. Perhaps someone with lungs like Jack Lalanne would mind it... JB Jaybird, Most of that cracking effort was in the set of the diaphragm. It uses, as you know, a compound lever system which should be very efficient. But the diaphragm takes a "set" that cannot really be loosened. I have experimented with different diaphragms, and the Dart can be made to breath pretty well. But you need a silicone diaphragm, and to punch holes into it so you can get the screws through it. I used this regulator when it was relatively new, and you really need to set the interstage pressure at about 300-500 psig on the tank, as this is an unbalanced diaphragm regulator. By the way, I just found some interesting tables that I'll share here from a high altitude diving conference I attended in the 1970s. It shows the different correction factors you need to apply to different types of depth gauges, depending upon the altitude. I know, we now have diving computers that do that automatically, but it is nice to know why there are different factors for these gauges too. John
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Post by nikeajax on Oct 29, 2016 8:48:40 GMT -8
I got that from some dude in the Bay Area... The boot on the US Divers SPG is actually yellow in real life. I do like that gauge as well, like how it looks and the size, not some big dangly three gauge console swinging all around. Just a simple gauge to tell me how much air is left, and to watch the needle swing when I breath, due to also using a J-Valve... Mark Gosh, you didn't have to change your verbiage: from schmuck to dude... I knew it was all in good fun I have a very self-deprecating sense of humor... Humor being the operative word... JB
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Post by nikeajax on Oct 29, 2016 8:52:27 GMT -8
Jaybird, Most of that cracking effort was in the set of the diaphragm. It uses, as you know, a compound lever system which should be very efficient. But the diaphragm takes a "set" that cannot really be loosened. I have experimented with different diaphragms, and the Dart can be made to breath pretty well. But you need a silicone diaphragm, and to punch holes into it so you can get the screws through it. I used this regulator when it was relatively new, and you really need to set the interstage pressure at about 300-500 psig on the tank, as this is an unbalanced diaphragm regulator. John John, I tried it with a silicone-ScubaPro-diaphragm, and it was still really nasty, and even a NOS Dacor diaphragm that hadn't oxidized... JB
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Post by vance on Oct 29, 2016 8:56:52 GMT -8
Hey, Mark, Is this the stuff you used: Clear PVC Tubing, 3/32" ID, 5/32" OD, 1/32" Wall? If it is, LMK, please! I found some on Amazon 10' for $6.43 Prime. If I buy it, I guess I'll have to start collecting capillary depth gauges.... I suppose I'll have enough for another 19 or so. I have a pretty beat up Scubapro I want to fix. My tubing turned black as tar.
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Post by SeaRat on Oct 29, 2016 9:46:06 GMT -8
Jaybird, Most of that cracking effort was in the set of the diaphragm. It uses, as you know, a compound lever system which should be very efficient. But the diaphragm takes a "set" that cannot really be loosened. I have experimented with different diaphragms, and the Dart can be made to breath pretty well. But you need a silicone diaphragm, and to punch holes into it so you can get the screws through it. I used this regulator when it was relatively new, and you really need to set the interstage pressure at about 300-500 psig on the tank, as this is an unbalanced diaphragm regulator. John John, I tried it with a silicone-ScubaPro-diaphragm, and it was still really nasty, and even a NOS Dacor diaphragm that hadn't oxidized... JB Jaybird, I hear ya', and think I was thinkin' about the Dart II, not the Dart. The Dart II had a Venturi, whereas the Dart just threw the air out into the chamber through four different holes. At one point some years ago I got so frustrated with my Dart that I cut the LP hose apart so I would not be tempted to dive it again. I kinda' regret doing that, as the LP hose on the original Dart was unique, with a non-standarepd fitting. The Dart II, while a better breathing regulator, is (at least for mine) a "honker" that emits a Goose-like honk on each inhalation. That also is very frustrating, and means for me, "pool only." I'll get those correction factors scanned sometime this weekend for different depth gauges. John
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