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Post by nikeajax on Feb 9, 2017 9:24:14 GMT -8
Maybe I got Rene and Gustav mixed up? I need to re-read it maybe? Mark That especially doesn't surprise me! Jim Steele was telling me the that the guy ScubaPro hired to be in charge of, I think sales, used to run fried-chicken franchises and was overly aggressive about the way anyone could carry their product. As soon as he took over, Jim's dad stopped selling their gear. JB
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Post by nikeajax on Aug 9, 2017 10:38:57 GMT -8
When I got all those second stages, I noticed that there were some old dried out exhaust mushrooms still in two of them. They were one inch! With further examination, I saw that they were seating on the exhaust tee, and not the intended valve seat. Fast forward to yesterday: I got out my Dremmil-tool and expanded the area: Not perfect, but it will suit my needs for now: I'm 99% sure that this will work! If it does, I'm going to make new a new label "Scuba Star-GS". With new silicone diaphragms these tilt-valves don't breath half bad, it's the restrictive exhaust-seat that makes them kind creepy to do open-water dives with: I really don't think it has much to do with how long they are: compare them with that of the USD Calypso-II-III-IV, those are very restrictive too! This second stage will get the chrome removed and a coat of blue paint: I'm also going to try this with the downstream-valve body type with the stacked exhaust and cut the inner seat out completely... JB
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Post by nikeajax on Aug 9, 2017 13:16:52 GMT -8
Tah-da! JB
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Post by SeaRat on Aug 10, 2017 21:31:37 GMT -8
Jaybird,
I really appreciated the three pieces of a Healthways Scuba Star/Scubair that you gave me from the Dick Anderson estate. I have them on display with my other Healthways regulators in my garage. But, I did use some brass polish on them, and they look pretty good on display.
Let us know how the drilled-out second stage exhausts work. I'm curious to hear.
Thanks again,
John
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Post by nikeajax on Aug 11, 2017 8:27:56 GMT -8
YIKES: I only have about 1-mm of seating area--SNORT! It's not seating as well as I'd hoped: there's a slight raised area where the spokes of the vanes come in contact with tee even after much work to get them to sit flat, so there's more work to be done there. I need to look at different mushrooms too...
More to come!
Victor Frankenstein
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Post by nikeajax on Sept 19, 2017 13:52:09 GMT -8
OK, I got the tilt-valve hooked up...
WOW!
It now uses a 26mm mushroom and with that first breath I was floored at just how nice it is. It's not seating 100% but still working on it: I'm wondering if in the water, the pressure and water-tension will seal thing up?
JB
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Post by nikeajax on Sept 20, 2017 16:19:28 GMT -8
My first first coat of primer: This one may become a JC Higgins Diving Lung, as, A: I don't need a serial number B: I don't have a Higgy! Working on a label graphic! I've noticed on the blue Higgy's that some were painted over the chrome, whereas the the HW's were shot over raw unplated-brass. John68 sent me this image too: Note the lighter metallic-aqua color. Now look at the exhaust tee, what you can of it: I just noticed the ends have rubber on them! I think I may have to do this as well... JB
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Post by SeaRat on Sept 20, 2017 16:34:10 GMT -8
Jaybird,
Very interesting. I'm interested in seeing the results.
John
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Post by tomcatpc on Sept 20, 2017 18:15:17 GMT -8
This is getting good! Looking forward to the finished reg. Mark
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Post by nikeajax on Sept 25, 2017 11:22:14 GMT -8
I tried to find something close to the blue HW used today: I found some Rustoleum "cobalt-blue-metallic"--GRRRR! When I got it home I saw that it was actually metal-flake and too dark.
Way back when, the metallic colors were known as "iridescent": the metal particulates were ground super fine, and much finer that what I found. The Rustoleum is also way too shiny: I'm hoping for semigloss, but would really prefer a satin finish to emulate the lacquer that was used. I'm going to have to look at some touch-up-paint at an auto store, but may have to mix my own and shoot the color with my airbrush...
JB
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Post by tomcatpc on Sept 25, 2017 19:10:45 GMT -8
What about a matte clear coat?, or something of the like? I'm guessing this already went through your mind, as you know more about this sort of thing a lot better than I do. Mark
Re-visit. That would not help with the size of metal flakes in the paint...
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Post by nikeajax on Sept 26, 2017 6:29:58 GMT -8
Mark, if I can find a satin UV-clear-coat, I could use a lower grade of paint too JB
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Post by nikeajax on Dec 1, 2017 9:17:57 GMT -8
As you can see the colors are pretty danged close: The HW color has more silver-pigment, thus making it look more gray... I'm really liking the way this is turning out JB
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Post by diverdon on Dec 1, 2017 15:40:20 GMT -8
That sure does look sweet, JB!! I think I'll leave mine (thanks again) brass. I may dive it someday though. Sometimes I really enjoy having this great big fresh water bathtub in my back yard. Although last weekend's dive was a bit chilly. Lakes Superior is down to 41 degrees. Won't be using anything that's not tried and tested for a while. DD
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Post by nikeajax on Dec 1, 2017 16:12:08 GMT -8
I hear ya, but this second stage was really ratty and had nothing to lose playing Victor Frankenstein. I finished the art work for a J.C. Higgins "Diving Lung" label, so that's what this one will be. I think it will go onto my original version Scubair.
As a side note: I'm figuring out the parts and mods for a faux Connie non-mag, even going to mod the yoke-screw so it looks like a Connie-VI but has the 3K yoke. The cans will be a Calypso-III but the tops will be from C-II's...
JB
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