I've been turning brass into tiny chips again. This time it is in aid of making a Soviet regulator work with a yoke. These were not DIN attached, but used a Soviet protocol. I got mine with a DIN adapter, but I have no DIN valves. Using a yoke adapter on a DIN adapter pushes the reg body so far out from the tank valve it pokes you in the back. Hella.
So, back to the garage. Here's two different types I designed. One uses a Conshelf yoke and nut, and the other is a slip-over style using a DAAM yoke. The slip over one works fine, but the yoke isn't held in place and bangs around when the reg isn't attached to a valve. These do bring the reg back as far as possible and work as well as it's going to get, due to the design of the cans. The reg is still pushed outward more than I'd like. I might gain another fraction of an inch by really working at it, but don't think I'll bother.
The Conshelf yoke allows the use of a banjo for an SPG.
You don't see a sintered filter at the tank valve end, because these regs have an internal screen just under the adapter.
Cubans would totally do this, or whatever ingenious hoops they devised to jump through in order to make things work. I would love to see the Soviet scuba stuff they have in Cuba and what they did to keep it all working. I never got the chance to look into it when I was there, due to the educational/cultural schedule I had to agree to in order to go. Those guys are geniuses at making things work with what they've got.
I have another Soviet reg that needs an adapter to make it work gracefully. It's my second stage double hose AVM-3. It needs a 3/8" unf connection for the remote first stage. I'm also eyeing my Kaiman (Polish) reg to eliminate the DIN fitting and fit a yoke to it.
These are all metric to US standard thread change-ups that require some doing, esp when your lathe's leadscrew is 16tpi. You have to use a more complex procedure of single-point threading to be successful with metric threads than you do with standard threads. These adapters are 20 tpi on one end to M1.5 on the other. Whew!
Dunno when I'll get to the next ones, though. When I have a number of pieces, I'll take 'em all down to the chrome shop.
Komrad Philski, I have idea! Go see Komrad Steelov (Jim) and find a valve that you can machine, tap threads into, then make something that you can thread into both: I was thinking of the HW Airflo:
The valve they used is unique to them but it's a lot like a DIN Jim, as you're very aware, has more old valves laying around than anyone!!!!!
I'm not sure there's any reason to do that, other than to make a cool copy for giggles. I am more about mods to make old stuff work for us now. I'm a little hesitant/wary of making high pressure parts, since I'm not an engineer who really understands what is what.
Even these adapters make me a bit nervous, but I am kind of sure/hopeful that if I stick to copying dimensions, etc., everything will be ok. I don't have an overwhelming desire to make a first stage at this point, but who knows where this will take me as I learn?
It is fun and very cool to be able to make these parts for mods to various applications. I'm currently working on coming up with inarguable reasons why I need a milling machine.
I think you should try, Phil, a different approach. How about making an adaptor for a K-valve that plugs into a stainless steel tube to and inverted set of twins. You can run the line from the manifold to the regulator above, like is done by the Siebe Gorman scuba unit in the 1960s:
Seibe Gorman twins001 by John Ratliff, on Flickr Hampton, T.A., Captain, AGR, REsc, AWLISA, The Master Diver and Underwater Sportsman, ARCO Publishing Company, Inc., New York, Copyright T.A. Hampton, 1970, page 16.
In this way, the depth of the regulator is negated.