Herman, If you actually find the very rare roundtuit, and get aholt of one, pls post.
I made a new hex brass cap for the second stage. It works fine.
Also, I drilled out another first stage at 10 o'clock and threaded it to see if I could bring the second stage closer to the intake horn. Did it! Again, I shied away from the outside edge, and got away with it.
I think this position will allow a good direct blast down the intake horn. Due to the high position of the second stage, the levers don't interfere with the IP adjuster so the levers can be offset to be more centered on the diaphragm. I don't know if this is a big deal, because off-center interfaces seem to work fine.
When I get the IP tap drilling done and make this one work, I'll let you all know how it works!
My guess is that will work fine, I would start without the extra bleed holes (just 2 opposed holes) and see how it works before adding more vents. A simple air director/deflector could be used to great effect here. effect.
The little flats I cut for clearance will have to be enlarged on two opposite sides to make a place for drilling the jets. I made the cap before doing this off-center second stage, and the lever slot should be turned a bit to orient the flat side to the air horn, not the pointy side. I could cut a new slot on this one, or I'll make a new one that's correct.
I find I have more converted regulators than cans to put them in! Still eyeing those Deluxe cans.... A set of Mistral cans'd work too. I have an orphan OverPressure top, but even thinking about that one is blasphemy.
I finished the offset one today. I made a lever from some nice sheet stock and tried it out with the delrin second stage cap drilled with 2 jets. Heavy, out of control venturi action even with the newly fixed DSV. No need here for a tube or any director. A couple of 1/16" holes opposing the larger jets calmed things down well. Maybe too well. I regret drilling two holes without trying only one first. One will get plugged and tested later, but for now it's time to pool test. Report to follow.
Lots of progress today. Here's a blank for a new lever, made out of my new sheet stock.
And here's the blank along side of a finished lever.
I had to make all new ones, because the sheet stock I originally used turned out to be fake stainless. Being a re-purposer, I made them out of metal for a shower enclosure. Turned out to be chromed steel. And it rusted. Badly. Duh'oh!
So, two finished ones and a blank got made today for the Titans and Dacor conversions. I also did a bunch of fussy fixing little things today to get these things ready for their bubble-making debuts in the pool. So the Dacor and a Titan II are going in the water soon!
I guess I need to buy 3 more sets of FX cans, or start mutilating vintage boxes for 2 converted Titan IIs and a Dacor Olympic....
I have a mismatched set of orphan Gold Label cans in poor condition that are possible donors for this project. The top can looks great, but has a crack in the valve hole. This crack is odd, because the part was chromed after the crack appeared and has flowed into the crack on the outside. It looks like HW just assembled it anyway. Hmmm.
If I cut the can, the crack will be removed. The bottom can will not be changed in any way. I also have an orphan set of Deluxe cans in poor condition that could be used. I like the GL cans better for this because of the diaphragm flange interface. A Mistral top can would be easier, but I don't have one.
A potential problem is the domed shape of the Healthways cans. I will probably have to figure out a way to flatten the flange for the first stage seal. Anyone have a junky Mistral or other USD singlestage top to sell or donate to the cause?
The Dacor cans have 6 holes in a circle at the bottom can that hold the body to the can. A 2 1/4" hole would clear all the holes, so I could and would like to use Dacor cans, but getting diaphragms is becoming difficult. I do have a NOS exhaust diaphragm that could be converted, but the availability of new silicone diaphragms make HW or USD the clear choice.
I took some regs to the pool to test. I needed to try out the Dacor Olympic conversion, the new lever on the Titan II conversion, a Scuba, and my Dacor R-3.
They all preformed well, except the Dacor R-3 which would not seat on the valve. I kept getting HP leaks around the tank valve o-ring. WTF?
Anyway, the Dacor Oly worked well and felt like it will deliver. The Titan II was great, and pumped out a bit more than the Dacor, which leads me to believe I need to work on jets on the Oly. Gotta get a bit more venturi action.
The Scuba is an early model stocker with OEM diaphragm, exhaust diaphragm, and no duckbill with a USD hoseloop. It breathes ok, but with a kinda thump-hiss on the intake? Probably an adjustment problem, or a too stiff diaphragm.
I took some video of the Oly's first bubbles, and the Titan's new lever debut.
The Titan's USD hoseloop was annoying, as the hoses had a weird set to them, also the backpack I had just modded kept slipping off because it needed adjusting and is in desperate need of a crotch strap to keep it down and in position. It's working much better in the Olympic video, which was later than the Titan II test. It still needs a crotch strap!