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Post by Terry on Apr 29, 2020 19:49:33 GMT -8
So what you're saying is that Dr. Frankenreg will be spending lots of time in "The LahBoratory" I can hear him now when that first breath of air flows from one of his creations. "It's alive, It's alive!"
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Post by crabbyjim on Apr 29, 2020 20:55:07 GMT -8
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Post by vance on Apr 30, 2020 8:06:05 GMT -8
CJ, you beat JB to the punch!
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Post by nikeajax on Apr 30, 2020 9:02:33 GMT -8
Hey, how 'bout if I pop by this afternoon: I'm rebuilding a 392-Hemi an' I need the heads milled! JB
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Post by vance on Aug 13, 2020 16:58:38 GMT -8
OK, back to reality. I just finished the Conways regulator. It's been languishing for long months while I considered how to keep the lever/second stage from moving this way and that. I made a stainless steel "washer" with a tit sticking out in order to silver solder a stainless nut onto it. This nut receives a 5-40 fillister head screw, which holds the second stage in place, li' kiss: What you are looking at is a second stage on top of a brass nut, which holds down a stainless steel fitting with a 5-40 nut soldered to it, which accepts a screw, which in turn, keeps the second stage from rotating! That kept me awake nights, boys.
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Post by vance on Sept 28, 2020 13:27:21 GMT -8
I sent the bare brass and partially machined parts to a friend for plating in bright nickel. I'm hoping that he'll want to do some more bits as well as boxes. I'd prefer chrome, and he reluctantly admitted he could do chrome, but isn't really set up for it. He does gold, though....
I've always tried to use beater boxes to cut up for my custom regulators, b/c I abhor modding relatively restorable parts. However, when a custom reg is done and working well, it looks like crap (see above).
Pics will follow receipt of the bits!
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Post by vance on Oct 8, 2020 19:06:56 GMT -8
Plated parts received!
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Post by vance on Oct 8, 2020 19:08:36 GMT -8
Now the cans are going in for plating! My friend told me to send him a challenge. One is rough, and the other badly stained, so we'll see! Pics will follow.
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Post by scubalawyer on Oct 8, 2020 19:14:06 GMT -8
Those look real purty!
I took a break from vintage regs this week and am in the process of rebuilding my 2002 Atomic Aquatics B2 1st and 2nd stages. Got it to lock up instantly with an IP of 135 with 4 shims (1st stage is basically a SP MK10).
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Post by vance on Oct 9, 2020 8:35:23 GMT -8
They were plated with rhodium. Not sure if it's visible in the pics, but the parts that still had chrome on them got stripped of the chrome, leaving the bright nickel under plate. Where the nickel is, the rhodium came out shiny. Where the parts are bare brass, they came out satin. The cans will probably be bright nickel, possibly with rhodium on top of that.
I don't care if the cans come out shiny rather than satin, b/c this is a custom regulator, not a restoration. Ooooh, shiny!
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Post by vance on Oct 17, 2020 15:22:57 GMT -8
I got the boxes for the Conways re-plated. Lookin' good. I'll post pics when it's assembled.
New ideas in the think mill for remote second stages. I think it will involve Conshelf XI or XII first stages. I have several VIs, but the lack of ports is a problem. I could bore new ones, and that is the way to get the proper placement. This mod might be way simpler than the splitter.
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Post by herman on Oct 18, 2020 12:51:04 GMT -8
I have added ports to Conshelf first stages before, fairly easy in the mill. Face off an area larger than that needed for the hose hex in the spot you want the port, bore the hole, countersink it then thread. I would suggest you getting a piloted counterbore for the oring grooves. Much easier than using an endmill and perfect alignment every time. They are a few bucks but well worth the cost IMO. Here are examples drillsandcutters.com/straight-shank-counterbores/
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Post by vance on Oct 18, 2020 14:37:19 GMT -8
Thanks for the tip Herman! I've never cut ports into a first stage on the mill, and I see where cutting with an end mill could lead to misalignment.
I'll get one of those piloted cutters and will use it for this, and for adding new LP ports in Dacor DH bodies. I have a C-3 that someone else cut 5 or so ports into, but bungled 3 of them so badly they aren't useable. I filled those in with JBWeld, and was able to save two. I've been eyeballing a couple of other Dacors that look like they could use some that are done correctly.
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Post by vance on Oct 18, 2020 14:42:22 GMT -8
I assembled the Conways today and ran into runaway IP/HP seat problems again. I took it apart, and it had the old style seat in it. Huh. I thought I'd put a new one in. Nope, a resurfaced OEM. I got some new ones recently, but they all got used in Titan IIs and the like, but not this one apparently.
Ordered 3 more.....
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Post by vance on Aug 19, 2022 13:03:13 GMT -8
I never posted photos of the revised lever, second stage stopper, and the plated parts all up where they belong. The lever works with a singlestage USD diaphragm. The Conshelf VIs are limited for peripherals having only 1 HP and LP port, but with the splitter/second stage adapter it has 2 LP taps. In case you're wondering, the two black circles under the first stage retaining nut are JBWeld filled locator pin holes for Mistral and StreamAir valves. This has been tested in a pool and works very well.
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