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Post by vance on Feb 5, 2020 17:19:12 GMT -8
Our ProBoards buddy, JB, has designed an air director that will allow a Scuba or Deluxe to pump out a generous amount of air to the diver. It works by directing the bulk of the air released from the HP valve directly down the intake horn. It isn't a venturi, but it works great.
The SnorkelJet is, so far, the best way to improve the performance of the Scuba/Deluxe regulator (aside from using a GL venturi valve in the Scuba). It will become a very respectable performer, esp. with an improved hose loop like the USD sets. But, it is a mod that irrevocably changes the top can. The flat needs to be filed away for the SnorkelJet to work, because the position of the HW valve is keyed in the wrong direction. However, this mod can improve the air direction even w/o the SnorkelJet. Positioning the valve differently can direct 1/2 the air toward the intake horn without a director, which will also improve performance.
I made a mod to JB's design, which is made of plastic sheet. I don't claim mine works better, but it is easy to make, and costs very little. It utilizes plastic cutting boards from Target.
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Post by SeaRat on Feb 5, 2020 18:07:12 GMT -8
Our ProBoards buddy, JB, has designed an air director that will allow a Scuba or Deluxe to pump out a generous amount of air to the diver. It works by directing the bulk of the air released from the HP valve directly down the intake horn. It isn't a venturi, but it works great. The SnorkelJet is, so far, the best way to improve the performance of the Scuba/Deluxe regulator. It will become a very respectable performer, esp. with an improved hose loop like the USD sets. But, it is a mod that irrevocably changes the top can. The flat needs to be filed away for the SnorkelJet to work, because the position of the HW valve is keyed in the wrong direction. However, this mod can improve the air direction even w/o the SnorkelJet. Positioning the valve differently can direct 1/2 the air toward the intake horn without a director, which will also improve performance.
I made a mod to JB's design, which is made of plastic sheet. I don't claim mine works better, but it is easy to make, and costs very little. It utilizes plastic cutting boards from Target. I've been talking about that for years now, actually decades. (I'm getting old.) The valve levers needs to be positioned at a 90 degree to the intake horn. This way, the air that does come directly out of the valve is deflected towards the intake horn on one side. It does significantly improve the breathing of the original Healthways Scuba, and the Healthways Scuba Deluxe. IMG_0778 by John Ratliff, on Flickr This is the way the original Healthways Scuba levers are oriented. They need to be turned slightly counter-clockwise so that the levers are at 90 degrees to the intake hose. Healthways Scuba Hybrid3 by John Ratliff, on Flickr This photo shows the Gold Label "guts" on a Healthways Scuba can, which I call the Healthways Hybrid Scuba. But the lever orientation is the same as if there were no Venturi (you can see the Venturi nozzle pointed directly at the intake horn). John
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Post by vance on Feb 5, 2020 19:59:20 GMT -8
The GL Scuba venturi system is an amazing performer. It may (I believe it does) best the Mistral when tuned properly. The SnorkelJet is not quite at the same level, but it is very, very good if made properly.
I am working on improving my design. It won't be substantially different, but will be designed to fit around the valve better to minimize leaks around the valve and maximize airflow toward the intake horn. The original design doesn't protrude into the horn. My mod fits up inside the horn fairly far, which actually might cause a bit of venturi effect. I may take it even father.
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Post by nikeajax on Feb 6, 2020 8:39:55 GMT -8
PY, I was thinking: what if you RTV'ed the SJ onto the valve and made the air horn smaller where it fits into the Scuba's air horn? Also, maybe sealing up the gaps between the valve body and seam would also help too? Is it me, or are people just too afraid to even try this? JB
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Post by vance on Feb 6, 2020 11:09:15 GMT -8
I'm going to make some revisions to the template so the "wings" fit very closely around the valve body when folded. Leakage around the SJ and into the can is ok so I'm not going to go crazy with plugging the leaks, but the more gets down the pipe, the better. RTV-ing it to the valve face, esp. in the back might keep that from flapping up and down when air is released from the valve bore. I'd love to see one that's 3D printable. Even though it is effective and makes the Scuba and the Deluxe a much better performer, I don't think it's something very many people care about. I've spent a lot of time, effort, and money designing/making/modding things that maybe five people in the world would be interested in hearing about, much less doing to their own equipment. That's not why I do it. I do it to see if I can.
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Post by nikeajax on Feb 6, 2020 11:22:27 GMT -8
...That's not why I do it. I do it to see if I can. Skål! JB
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Post by SeaRat on Feb 6, 2020 11:37:02 GMT -8
One thing to remember with the Snorkel-Jet is that if it is made more and more efficient, some air must remain going into the can, or you will have a runaway Venturi. Also, the Venturi cannot be so powerful that it bypasses the mouthpiece and is vented into the exhaust loop. One thing that made the original Healthways Scuba appealing to me was the smooth air flow. The Mistral, as easy breathing as it is, is very noisy and the flow is not really even. My original regulator, bought used in 1959, was the Healthways Scuba. I choose it over the USD Mistral and the Dacor Dial-A-Breath (R-3). I simply loved the smooth air flow out of it. Here's another view of the Healthways Hybrid Scuba guts, with the 90 degree levers and Venturi nozzle pointed directly down the intake horn. Healthways Scuba Hybrid5 by John Ratliff, on Flickr And, although I've posted this drawing before, here it is again, comparing the exhausts of the orginal Healthways Scuba to the USD Mistral/Aquamaster/RAM. Healthways Scuba Exhaust Calcs by John Ratliff, on Flickr SCUBA vs Aquamaster001 by John Ratliff, on Flickr Note that the Healthways original Scuba exhaust does have an advantage over the Mistral/Aquamaster/RAM design. John John
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Post by nikeajax on Feb 6, 2020 13:06:45 GMT -8
One thing to remember with the Snorkel-Jet is that if it is made more and more efficient, some air must remain going into the can, or you will have a runaway Venturi. Also, the Venturi cannot be so powerful that it bypasses the mouthpiece and is vented into the exhaust loop... John John, thanks for the heads up, but I don't think there's too much to worry about as it a pretty big nozzle I remember someone modded theirs by soldering a plate over the valve and a big brass venturi-tube: as I recall it was a most unpleasant explosion of air for him. I do appreciate your constructive criticism, and explanation as to what to expect in going forward: it's so much easier to listen when people aren't being bitter... JB
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Post by SeaRat on Feb 6, 2020 14:54:09 GMT -8
JB,
I onl/y say that because I've been experimenting with the Healthways regulators for decades now, and experienced this when I took a Healthways mouthpiece (Gold Label) and removed the wagonwheel with my pocket knife, on both sides. I found that the GL Venturi was powerful enough to cause the flow to exit the exhaust hose, in spite of the deflector plate in the middle of the mouthpiece. So I put back in the non-return valve/wagonwheel on the exhaust loop, and then it worked great.
John
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Post by vance on Feb 7, 2020 12:38:29 GMT -8
Having had some experience making the SJ, I am fairly confident saying that the problem of runaway venturi with the current design is not a problem. It will direct most of the air down the intake horn, but it isn't going to require any vents to charge the cans. Plenty of air leaks into the cans already.
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