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Post by nikeajax on Jun 1, 2020 7:56:12 GMT -8
PY, sorry, I should have said for the A-model, or original scuba... JB
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Post by vance on Jun 1, 2020 9:21:08 GMT -8
PY, sorry, I should have said for the A-model, or original scuba... JB Worse yet, the A model keying puts the lever ass'y at an angle, like 45 degrees... You can file out the flat, but I've come to understand the importance of keying the valve body.
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Post by nikeajax on Jun 1, 2020 11:36:59 GMT -8
You can file out the flat, but I've come to understand the importance of keying the valve body. And what would that be? JB
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Post by SeaRat on Jun 1, 2020 11:49:07 GMT -8
You can file out the flat, but I've come to understand the importance of keying the valve body. And what would that be? JB I made my Healthways Scuba Hybrid GL so long ago that I don't remember whether I filed that flat spot out, or simply forced it to the 90 degree position. What I will say is that the Scuba Hybrid is a fantastic regulator. I used it for one of the two dives in my "Lampreys Spawning, 2 Dives" documentary. The Healthways Scuba Hybrid was used on the second dive. John
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Post by vance on Jun 1, 2020 13:25:00 GMT -8
You can file out the flat, but I've come to understand the importance of keying the valve body. And what would that be? JB Since the venturi action is very dependent on position, even a small change in rotation can damp it considerably. It's difficult to keep everything in position when the regulator is attached to a tank and being moved around, used, etc. With the SnorkelJet I made, the SJ extends into the horn and keeps it straight. Some other means of keying the stage in position should be made if the flat is filed off. You will probably want to do something to keep the Olympic body from turning in the cans, as well.
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Post by nikeajax on Jun 1, 2020 13:35:40 GMT -8
OK, I thought that was it, but I wasn't sure if there was, as you put it, "Voodoo", involved therein...
JB
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Post by vance on Jun 1, 2020 15:42:16 GMT -8
Oh, it's all Voodoo. Simplest things will haunt you.
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Post by vance on Jun 2, 2020 14:52:35 GMT -8
A very talented and generous guy has offered to make HW wagonwheels for the GL (can also be used with earlier models) in a 3D print file. He's sending me a set to check for size and functionality. He says he'll make the file available on Thingiverse.com.
Don't know about other states/counties, but our local libraries have 3D printers you can use for free! Dang! It's a new world.
He's also working on an H-P style, printable mouthpiece! That's amazing. Imagine being able to print a 1" (or a 1 1/2") mouthpiece with huge non-returns at your local library! All you need to buy are some valve mushrooms!
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Post by vance on Sept 21, 2020 16:45:16 GMT -8
Sorry, but I looked through all the Healthways threads, and couldn't find the thread for my mod for the Scuba Deluxe. There's a lot of stuff here! I'm impatient, and I want to do an update concerning mods to the regular valve toward a venturi style setup. EDIT: I consolidated both threads into this one, just to keep all the posts about this mod together.My original mod was to drill a hole through the side of the HW valve, producing a jet, and fitting a cover over the valve that would force the air directly into the jet and then the intake horn. I drilled a 1/16" inch hole from the top through the cover into the drilled jet for a second jet of air to reduce the venturi effect and to pop the the diaphragm back up. I also installed an air director into the intake horn. This worked too well. The result was a huge blast of air into the mp , and the venturi was so strong it led to runaway freeflow (w/o a baffled mouthpiece). I could induce it by pulling the mp out of my mouth in conjunction with a deep breath. So, in order to tame it, I figured I needed to drill the 1/16" hole bigger to divert a bit more of the air upward into the can. Whoops! Worse. This might not be a problem, as is, if one uses a mouthpiece with a diverter like a GL or DSV mp. However, I'm going to continue to experiment with this mod. I'm thinking it doesn't need the air director.... EDIT: That RTV is tough stuff. I couldn't get the air director out! I was afraid I'd bend something or break it and make a mess that'd have to be cleaned up. I left it, since it doesn't hurt and it probably helps.
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Post by SeaRat on Sept 21, 2020 17:39:15 GMT -8
There are two ways to deal with this, probably more, but I'll propose two:
1. Drill another, smaller hole diverting air into the can. This will be about the same as the holes drilled into the Mistral oriface that allow bleed air into the can. Actually you can get an idea from the Mistral oriface itself about the size of the holes.
2. Do what Dacor did, and put a deflector vane in the housing that could be turned externally, and use that to keep the Venturi down.
Good luck,
John
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Post by vance on Sept 28, 2020 14:12:24 GMT -8
I drilled another hole into the stainless cover which slightly improved the blast of air. The problem is that the lever system nearly covers the bevel in the top of the HP valve. The hole, drilled right next to the lever, barely gets into the air chamber. Nuts. Will have to further mod the valve body to access this. I should have drilled the jet smaller, but it's too late for that. I don't have any more HW valve bodies I'd care to drill into for 'spearmintin'.
This could be a pretty accessible mod for people w/o a lot of machine capabilities, but there's just not enough valve bodies out there to potentially ruin in this pursuit. I could plug the holes I've drilled and redrill, I guess.
I'd really love to see the machinist specs for a GL valve. I'm betting they cut the part that is beveled on the Scuba/Deluxe deep and square to make the air chamber more accessible for the venturi tube drilling. Then, they capped it with a soldered cover and nozzle.
I might machine my Super Deluxe like that, just for fun. Won't hurt.
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Post by james1979 on Sept 28, 2020 15:21:51 GMT -8
I should have drilled the jet smaller, but it's too late for that. Maybe instead, drill the jet larger and tap it for a screw. Then center drill the screw (or screws, plural, at different sizes) and it will be interchangeable, similar to changing the jetting on a carburetor.
Just an idea.
Respectfully,
James
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Post by vance on Sept 28, 2020 19:19:19 GMT -8
It's a good idea, and I've been kicking others around as well. I liked your little slider on the SJ.
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Post by vance on Sept 29, 2020 11:01:31 GMT -8
Not enough meat left for the threaded jet idea on this valve. I drilled it slanted upwards, so any larger hole will cut through the top. I worked on the secondary jet holes and got it perfect. This is as good as a GL or Mistral, now!
If I was to do this again, I'd use the changeable jet idea, or a venturi tube, but I'd need to find another valve body that I wouldn't mind modding. This one is an orphan valve body I got with some other loose stuff.
EDIT: I chucked up the modded HP valve in the lathe and cut the beveled air reservoir straight down and across, plumbing down to the top of the drilling for the HP pin. So now the beveled cut is square. The volume of the reservoir is increased, but it probably doesn't mean anything in the long run. However, it makes the reservoir easier to tap, if I want to change the jet/venturi tube design in the future. The upshot for this valve is that this cut worked to increase the efficacy of the secondary jet. It is now wide open, and this tamed the venturi to work great, with no freeflow. I really think this makes the Deluxe a diver.
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Post by vance on Oct 2, 2020 12:41:22 GMT -8
I just found the thread I was looking for. It appears I was looking to make a GL type cover for a Scuba valve that wouldn't require any permanent mods to the regulator. It turned out that I couldn't figure out how to do that, so I went on to mod the valve pretty heavily. Then James sent me a 3d printed cover/nozzle that looks like the GL setup.
Yesterday I was trying to figure out why it doesn't work as well as I expected, given its very GL-like appearance and properties. While the SJ as designed so far does improve the Scuba's performance, it isn't nearly as effective as the GL or the Super Deluxe. I'm not criticizing James' design! His design is limited by the design of the valve body.
So, I don't think it can be done w/o making permanent changes to the valve body. The way the valve is machined does not allow enough air from the beveled reservoir to enter the SJ. If the SJ is modified to access more air, there's a problem maintaining the necessary lever motion. Raising the lever platform any higher in order to make some air passages limits the lever's range of motion.
Drat.
So I've determined that the best I can do is try to make as little change to the valve as possible. I experimented today with an extra valve body, and improved the SnorkelJet equipped Scuba's air delivery some.
I milled a trench in the face of the valve body, much like the hole drilled in the side of the S-D mod. The trench leads directly into the nozzle of the SJ. I started with a 2.5mm wide by 1.5mm deep. There was some improvement, but it didn't cause the venturi-like blast I expected.
I widened the cut to 3.5mm. That improved things even more, but still no joy. I'm looking for runaway freeflow! There is a considerable amount of leakage around the SJ, and this particular version of the SJ isn't pointing the nozzle directly down the intake horn. I have a different version that has a longer nozzle that enters the intake horn rather than just points at it.
I'll try that one next.
BTW, I discovered that the long valve body (and yoke nut) is made of steel, not brass like the short version. That's probably why HW only made a few long ones. When they changed to brass they shortened it, but also changed the thread pitch to keep parts from being swapped.
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