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Post by scubalawyer on Jul 16, 2020 21:06:52 GMT -8
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Post by james1979 on Jul 17, 2020 3:19:53 GMT -8
I'm seriously jealous of you guys!
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Post by vance on Jul 17, 2020 14:23:10 GMT -8
I know I sound like a broken record on this point, but I'm saying it anyway. DON'T try to get the nut off the valve of a plastic DivAir. It'll break the body. I've never seen one apart that wasn't broken. You have to do your business with the valve in place. The levers will come out. Refer to the DivAir threads on here for information!
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Post by nikeajax on Jul 17, 2020 14:45:25 GMT -8
...DON'T try to get the nut off the valve of a plastic DivAir. It'll break the body... I agree 6000% percent!  JB |
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Post by vance on Jul 17, 2020 14:57:51 GMT -8
Nice catch, Mark. You're in the DivAir Club, now! This is a cool regulator, and you'll be surprised at how good it is (don't expect GL performance, though!).
Does anyone know if these were sold with the HW yellow or blue hoses? Or any color Healthways spiral-type hoses? I know some had greeny-gray or black surplus oxygen mask hoses, but those didn't have spiral convolutions.
I have had a couple with the gray-ish hoses (still have one set of them), and at least one with black (they were rotten). The EPDM 1" hoses that The Scuba Museum sells are an excellent match for the black ones.
We know that the DivAir was offered with Hope-Page mouthpieces of both designs, but the early ones had a NibCo metal mp, featuring a non-return valve stuffed into the intake hose.
Keep us posted with pics, pls, Mark!
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Post by scubalawyer on Jul 17, 2020 15:55:03 GMT -8
My research shows my reg is the last model made [Model F], and that the Model F came with blue HW hoses and a HP (which mine did). I got it from the estate of the original owner and that is what it is configured with.
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Post by vance on Jul 17, 2020 16:17:55 GMT -8
Good info! We need to know this stuff. Thanks!
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Post by scubalawyer on Jul 26, 2020 16:43:07 GMT -8
Waiting for my new diaphragm, but have it all cleaned up and ready to rebuild. And yes, everyone is correct not to try and remove the valve nut from the plastic/fibreglass impregnated body. I gave it a few tries but I can see how easily the metal sleave encased in the body could break. I ended up leaving it alone. Out of curiosity, it that a straight thread or a compression fitting? I didn't see a body-to-can o-ring on the parts diagram or in the actual reg.  |
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Post by vance on Jul 27, 2020 8:18:57 GMT -8
That's a very clean DivAir. Does the serial # start with C? Usually, the chrome on the F (no letter in the serial) models is thin and kind of coppery looking, but the older models have thicker, better chrome. What kind of soft seat does this one have? Is it ridged like a HW? There is no need to seal the body and the cover, since the air side is sealed by the diaphragm. The cover on these is only there to protect the diaphragm. BTW, the plastic tubing on the screws is there to keep the diaprhagm from abrading against the threads. You can get the plastic tubes off by heating with a heatgun. Clear aquarium tubing can be used to replace. Heat it and shove it on. I have a bunch of the long screws if you need any. When you adjust the levers, back the one on the flat bar all the way out, and then adjust the lever height. When that is done, adjust the upward lever flop with the second setscrew. I think it's only there to keep the lever from rattling. Older models didn't have that second adjuster. 
This one had a C serial number, and has the early levers, etc. It was almost certainly a factory refit of a bronze or alu DivAir into the plastic body, which the service company offered to owners of the metal regs. |
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Post by vance on Jul 27, 2020 8:27:24 GMT -8
I have seen the valve and threaded insert out of the body (out of body experience?).
The threaded insert is just a straight thread, not a tapered pipe thread, I'm pretty sure. I'm not sure why they are so tight. The ones in the alu body are fused by different metals voodoo. SwimJim got his out of the alu body with lots of penetrating oil and heat. I don't know if the bronze ones are easier to get out.
Of course, the one I saw had broken out of the plastic body.
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Post by scubalawyer on Aug 8, 2020 15:05:54 GMT -8
Quick question (only because I don't feel like taking apart my HW SCUBA at the moment).
Is the HW high pressure seat the same in a DivAir as it is in the SCUBA? I ask because the original seat in my DivAir is leaking and I need to order and/or find a replacement. Mark
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Post by vance on Aug 8, 2020 15:15:05 GMT -8
Not the same. TheDivAir seat is larger. They can be resurfaced. The are other schemes for using a Scuba seat. Check out the DivAir threads. I will be home Monday and can follow up with you.
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Post by nikeajax on Aug 8, 2020 15:19:33 GMT -8
Mark, no it is not, but the good news is you can make a bushing for it:     You can even use a HW's that leaks because they have two different sized orifices! JB |
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Post by scubalawyer on Aug 9, 2020 7:03:22 GMT -8
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Post by vance on Aug 9, 2020 7:14:46 GMT -8
Excellent! Iām looking forward to the dive review!
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