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Post by rikdog7 on Oct 3, 2020 14:48:59 GMT -8
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Post by nikeajax on Oct 3, 2020 14:59:24 GMT -8
Rick, very cool, and thanks for sharing! It's nice to have someone new who is excited and willing to share their experiences with us JB
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Post by SeaRat on Oct 3, 2020 16:21:05 GMT -8
Rick, First, be careful, as that spider may be unhappy! You have a job, but it should actually clean up pretty nicely. The diaphragm needs to be replaced, but any U.S. Divers Company Aquamaster or Royal Aquamaster diaphragm will do, as they are the same diameter and design. The pin halding the low pressure lever is not bent, and so it will be fairly easy to pull out. Push down gently on the lever, as there are springs underneath, and gently dislodge the pin by pulling it out of the holes. Once out, be careful not to loose the springs underneath. It is a pretty simply design, and so you should have no problems at all. You'll want to recover that pin that should be loose now that you took the first stage off. Don't loose that pin, as it is critical to the first stage operation. I suspect you'll need a new high pressure diaphragm, just looking at the regulator's condition. That also is easy to obtain, as it is the same as the Aquamaster and Royal Aquamaster diaphragm (I think). Good luck, and keep up the posting. John
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Post by vance on Oct 3, 2020 16:30:11 GMT -8
We love a first rebuild thread on here. The angst! The drama! The anxiety! The exhilaration! Crushing defeats, then the eventual success (hopefully).
Don't worry, we got your back. No question is a stupid question. No request for help is a setback. We get it: we've all been there.
And we won't laugh.
Much.
An aside: I just disassembled a nice but a bit crusty R-4 that I just received. As I write this, I'm reminded of my old hobby, which was rebuilding classic saxophones. The smell on my hands (even after washing them several times) is the same. Old spit. Ugh.
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Post by vance on Oct 3, 2020 16:43:24 GMT -8
You got the valve out, which is a major step. The problem with regs in this state is getting screws and all to break loose. Soaking in vinegar, spraying with WD and that other penetrating oil is fine! Do what is necessary to get everything apart. You'll clean up the toxic stuff as you go.
If you get all the screws out, and get everything apart, you are WAY out in front. Even if the chrome comes off with the corrosion, you will have a good regulator after the rebuild, in most cases. Proper cleaning and maintenance will be sufficient to keep a regulator working fine, even if it's used in salt water. I've got some ugly-on-the-inside regulators that work great!
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Post by vance on Oct 3, 2020 16:48:53 GMT -8
Rick, First, be careful, as that spider may be unhappy! John This is the reason you don't put a newly acquired regulator on the tank and take a nice big pull. Spider down the hatch! Take the cover off at least, eh?
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Post by nikeajax on Oct 3, 2020 17:41:25 GMT -8
OK, but my question is: what kinda spider has an egg-sack that's that big! A most impressive predator I assure you! That thing looks like something my cat puked up-- DANG! JB
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Post by scubalawyer on Oct 3, 2020 17:42:20 GMT -8
You have some work ahead but should be able to get it functional again.
Two things initially that I wanted to mention. I am unaware of anyone currently selling 2nd stage diaphragms with the tabs. I got a new silicone single stage diaphragm from Rob at The Scuba Museum and used a pop-rivet to secure the old two-tabbed plate to it. Works great.
Also, I see gouge marks on the ends of the horseshoe lever from rubbing on the metal diaphragm tabs. You will want to sand those lever ends down smooth to make the tabs ride better on each inhale. let us know what you find once you get the HP diapgragm out.
My unsolicited 2psi. Mark
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Post by herman on Oct 3, 2020 17:56:49 GMT -8
That one is a bit nasty. The US Divers Broxton or DA Navy is the same reg so you can use manuals for it. The HP seat for a DA Aquamaster and HP diaphragm from any USD reg will work. The LP orifice on this reg is removable, it uses a special IP gauge. This reg is rebuildable but not the best breathing DH. After you get the mud off, a soak in a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water will cut a lot of the corrosion. Don't leave it in there any longer than necessary as it will start to attack the chrome. The metal hose clamps are hard to come by and very desirable, be careful with them.
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Post by james1979 on Oct 3, 2020 18:37:20 GMT -8
Just a few thoughts....
The 1st stage (nozzle) looks like it should be the same as Aqualung DAAM's, which would mean it is interchangable with the RAM, Cyclone, or Phoenix (whenever the Cyclone and Phoenix become available again). But I would rebuild it stock and use it on a tank that has an HP port on the valve.
As John mentioned, the 1st stage pin is critical... but if you do lose it, one of us can get you dimensions and you can trim a Conshelf pin to length.
Also with the 1st stage, I think VDH is out of the gaskets for it. If you can't find a new one, I can print you one in TPU (95 duro urethane) to hold you till they become available again. My printed ones are a tad more finicky than the nylon ones, but I'm running them in 2 regs right now.
Respectfully,
James
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Post by SeaRat on Oct 3, 2020 19:12:54 GMT -8
I just went out to my garage and my dive shed to take a look at what I have. Mark said above that he is unaware of anyone selling diaphragms with the tabs on them anymore. Well, I have one Mistral regulator (same diameter) diaphragm, and it is an older one. How do I know? Well, it has the tabs folded over. My Mistral has a diaphragm and is usable as is, so this is excess.
Of further interest to those on this board is that I have a very old DA Aqualung diaphragm which is much different, and possibly the first one manufactured for this regulator (the DA Aqualung, not the Voit equivalent). It is yellow in color, indicating that it is original gum rubber. It has two discs rivited on it, one (on the outside) is painted black or blue over brass metal. The inside disc looks to be a fiber, with the tabs rivited onto it in the form of a long brass strip, with the tabs bent 90 degrees up; two rivets hold it onto the solid discs on each end. While interesting, I would not want to put it onto a regulator to try, as the raised sealing surfaces have been crushed and are very thin...maybe they were made that way too, I can't tell.
Now, one other interesting "find" in my diving tool box is a HP diaphragm that looks like it may have come out of the DA Aqualung, and it has the pin permanently placed inside the metal disc in the center. It is movable, but won't come out. In other words, it's not brazed or soldered, but probably has a larger head inside than the opening out, and so is permanently there. It is in good shape, and if your Voit has a similar HP diaphragm, this might work with yours too.
I'm in the process of cleaning out "junk," and so these will go for a very nominal price.
John
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Post by scubalawyer on Oct 3, 2020 19:45:51 GMT -8
As I recall, I had a bad 1st stage volcano orifice in my VR-2 so I replaced it with an AquaMaster 1st stage body (I think).
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Post by scubalawyer on Oct 3, 2020 20:12:35 GMT -8
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Post by rikdog7 on Oct 3, 2020 20:18:37 GMT -8
First, It's an Arizona spider and this entire place is a hazardous environment, especially the garage or the shed. If it isn't a spider it is a snake or a scorpion. John, I am interested in parts for sure. James, if that is the pin that was on the back side when I took the yoke off, yes, I saw it and saved it. Herman, I figured the bands were hard to come by so I was extra careful and was actually able to disconnect them and save them. I was going to wait until I had adequate time to do the vinegar bath and rinse and not over do it.
I thought about investing in an ultrasonic cleaner, they are pretty reasonable on the Big-River. I have read to be cautious not to over clean and remove chrome. I have used them at work in the past to clean fittings.
Thanks again for all of the good advice and information. I will endeavor to persevere and mate this fine piece of equipment to one of my old tanks. And I just happen to have one with an HP port on the valve. Rick
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Post by technidiver on Oct 4, 2020 19:05:45 GMT -8
Rick, before you do any vinegar cleaning I’d remove as many parts as possible and then dunk the whole assembly in boiling water, and give a good scrub afterwards in some fresh water (warm, not too hot). This will remove surface dust, dirt, and mild patina. Afterwards, you can soak it in vinegar for a while. 50/50 with water works but you can run higher concentrations. No problem, just be vigilant and watch over it.
As for the diaphragm, adding onto Marks suggestion, you might be able to find some old single stage diaphragms or a two stage diaphragm from Rob at the Scuba Museum. You could buy a crappy one, take off the metal part and use a rivet or some RTV adhesive on a new diaphragm. That stuff is fairly strong and all things considered a lot stronger than the bonding material used back in the 1960s. You might not even need the rivet, but that’s what I’d do if I was in your position.
Grab some new silicone hoses and a duckbill eliminator and a new mouthpiece and you’re set. Almost all of the members on this forum are able to help you in some way so never hesitate in asking a question. Congrats on your new reg and best luck.
TD
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