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Post by herman on Oct 5, 2020 2:42:37 GMT -8
I do not recommend boiling the top can (one with the label) I tried that once on a reg I was rebuilding for someone else....I spent hours repainting the label. The paint boiled off of it. That's a nice looking label, I would hate to see it messed up.
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Post by Michel on Oct 5, 2020 6:40:11 GMT -8
I agree with Herman, forget the boiling. With the top can(label side)you can submerge it in a shallow bath without covering the label so as not to expose it to whatever solution u are using. The label is quite nice and patina-ed . I use Salt-X as a cleaning solution almost exclusively but the old vinegar solution works also.the hose clamps are Tinnerman clamps and frankly are a pain even though period correct, I have a box of them and they will stay in the box! Nice find and good luck tuning it, you can do it by the old Broxton Chuck way or have a IP valve made or buy one off Herman, all good. It's a great vintage reg which shows you what the early pioneers had to put up with breathing wise in the 50's when men were men, Amen!
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Post by SeaRat on Oct 5, 2020 8:31:30 GMT -8
I agree with most of the above, but will add a bit here. Concerning the hoses and exhaust system, I'd get a set of green silicone hoses and a straight "T" mouthpiece for it, although I would be tempted to go with the green AMF Voit mouthpiece too. Why green? Because that was the color of the original hoses on this regulator, and how they differentiatied themselves from the U.S. Divers Company DA Aqualung. The Scuba Museum has these options in hoses. I would not go with the Duckbill Eliminator, as that is a more modern device, and I suspect it adds a bit of resistance to the system. It uses a mushroom valve, and while it does eliminate the need to ever deal with the exhaust valve, mushroom valves are a bit more restrictive than a duckbill. I'd put a duckbill from VSS (here), long, untrimmed version, into this regulator. That way, it would be along the original design. www.vintagescubasupply.com/hoses.htmlI'm looking at the low pressure diaphragm I would also use, and simply bend back the tabs. I can send that to you if you wish (PM me about it). It won't cost much either. John
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Post by Michel on Oct 5, 2020 9:59:09 GMT -8
I concur except for the actual duckbill. I would choose silicone duckbills which hold up better IMHO but that's really neither here nor there, just personal preference and from personal experience.
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Post by rikdog7 on Oct 5, 2020 15:33:40 GMT -8
Thanks for so much good advice. I am glad I haven't started cleaning too much, I would have hated to ruin the label. I would prefer a duckbill for sure. I do want to keep it as original as I can. I will probably use newer hose clamps at first. I appreciate all of the helpful links also. I just got my cheap ultrasonic cleaner today, I have never enjoyed cleaning parts this much before.
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Post by SeaRat on Oct 5, 2020 16:06:05 GMT -8
Here are those hoses from The Scuba Museum: www.thescubamuseum.com/Online%20Store/onlinestore.htm#!/Green-silicone-hoses/p/68483638/category=20189274 Here's the straight mouthpiece: www.thescubamuseum.com/Online%20Store/onlinestore.htm#!/Voit-Green-straight-mouthpiece/p/68483616 And here's a Voit curved mouthpiece, which may be a bit more comfortable (the straight mouthpiece has a very lange grip area, bigger than some are comfortable with). www.thescubamuseum.com/Online%20Store/onlinestore.htm#!/Voit-New-Curved-reproduction-mouthpieces-in-Green-food-grade-silicone-VOIT/p/73357543 The reason I prefer the VSS duckbill is that it has "body" to it, and I can use it with my Professional Mouthpiece, which doesn't have non-return valves. Because of this, there is negative pressure exerted against the duckbill, and the silicone one may simply invert, as it is very flexible without that "body" to it. Broxton Dive 8-10-2015-2 by John Ratliff, on Flickr Here I'm using my DA Aqualung (Broxton green label) regulator with the Professional Mouthpiece. John
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Post by rikdog7 on Oct 5, 2020 17:35:01 GMT -8
So I did a little more surgery tonight and got down to the first stage lock ring. Not sure if that is the correct term, but I like it. I am soaking it with PB Blaster. As I was working out in my shop, now that it is only 104 in Arizona, I was trying to remember all of the advice I read from everyone. As I started to get down to the first stage diaphragm it reminded me of when I taught my daughters how to drive. I made them change the oil, change a tire, and they had to pass a test under the hood on all of the major components before they got to hold the keys. I can learn from books and listening, but nothing beats breaking down your equipment and seeing how it all fits. I'm not only going to de-burr the second stage lever, I'm going to port and polish that puppy. Okay, I won't port anything yet, but all contact surfaces are going to be smooth with low friction. I'm already thinking about the port for my IP gauge. I'll keep you posted. IMG_20201005_182207 by Richard Downing, on Flickr www.flickr.com/photos/190354091@N07/50425436541/in/dateposted-public/Rick
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Post by rikdog7 on Oct 5, 2020 18:48:01 GMT -8
Well I ordered a new hose and the curved mouthpiece. My old black straight mouthpiece doesn't taste too bad and my mouth is big enough to hold it in place if I decide to use it. I guess I'm committed now. I'm buying parts that cost more than what I paid for it.
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Post by james1979 on Oct 6, 2020 4:16:13 GMT -8
I guess I'm committed now. I'm buying parts that cost more than what I paid for it. If it makes you feel any better, my DAAM with Cyclone 1st stage and HPR 2 stage is hands down the most expensive reg in my house... and I paid very little on the initial Ebay purchase! Collecting and rebuilding these things is a disease... but one I'm happy to have!
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Post by scubalawyer on Oct 6, 2020 6:01:55 GMT -8
I repainted my VR-2 label. I have a pretty easy process in case you need to. Let me know.
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Post by Michel on Oct 6, 2020 9:26:47 GMT -8
WOW ! Outstanding job on that label, well done !
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Post by rikdog7 on Oct 6, 2020 12:26:44 GMT -8
That looks great. I will keep that in mind for sure.
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Post by vance on Oct 6, 2020 14:00:06 GMT -8
Try a brass drift and hammer to loosen that retainer ring. That will usually do it. Herman's ring tool gets them all off, though.
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Post by SeaRat on Oct 6, 2020 15:10:08 GMT -8
Try a brass drift and hammer to loosen that retainer ring. That will usually do it. Herman's ring tool gets them all off, though. I've actually advised against removing that ring to Rick. The reason is that there is no reason other than a leak to remove it and replace the sealing gasket. If there's a water/air leak, then okay, and build or get the correct tools. But other than that, there is no reason to break the seal and separate the body from the box. Removing it without a tool increases the chance of damage to the box. My Broxton Green Label DA Aquamaster has never had the box separated from the body by removing that ring. John
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Post by vance on Oct 6, 2020 17:15:00 GMT -8
True, the crustiness of this reg might not be the body gasket, but there was some leakage inside the intake side.
It's all up to the individual. I am very comfortable banging away on things, but another might not. I like to replace the body gasket. That regulator had some salt water intrusion, and if it was mine, I'd plug all the potential leaks. It probably isn't crusty due to a body leak, but a 50-60 year old gasket is probably not in great shape. It could start leaking any time...?
The way to go might be leave it, and see if there's water intrusion into the intake side. Take the cans apart after diving and look. If not, fine! If so, replace the gasket...
But why not put a new gasket in there that will last another 50 years?
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