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Post by rikdog7 on Oct 6, 2020 18:38:23 GMT -8
I'm finding saltwater corrosion on everything I take apart from this lot of gear, so I plan on taking the body off and replacing the gasket. If it lasts another 50 years I'll have to make sure my grandson gets my tools and tech manuals so he can do the complete overhaul next time.
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Post by SeaRat on Oct 6, 2020 21:30:44 GMT -8
One thing that people don't realize is that the gasket is pretty well protected, as it is sealed by two metal surfaces. So while the edge can become a problem, the part under the two metal pieces (body and can) cannot be exposed to much. BUT, if you wish to take them apart, I highly recommend procuring the right tools, or making them. You can buy them from Herman, or make them yourself. The March 1970 U.S. Navy Diving Manual has a diagram of the tools required. Aquamaster & tools001 by John Ratliff, on Flickr I know, this is for the Aquamaster, not the DA Aqualung. But the body wrench and the tool for the ring are the same. The second stage is different, and the placement is different, but the body wrench placed into a vice gives a means of providing leverage on the body for removing the ring without putting any pressure on the brass can, which is rather delicate. John
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Post by rikdog7 on Oct 7, 2020 5:50:17 GMT -8
Thanks for the drawing and the advice. I reached out to Herman about the proper tools. I see evidence of enough corrosion I would feel more comfortable being careful and taking it down to the smallest part to investigate. Rick
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Post by SeaRat on Oct 10, 2020 16:05:35 GMT -8
For those who are interested in making a diaphragm with the tabs, I thought you'd like to see how U.S. Divers Company did it in the original DA Aquamaster in the early 1950s. IMG_1699 by John Ratliff, on Flickr IMG_1698 by John Ratliff, on Flickr Note that the tabs were a part of a long rectangle which was rivited onto the diaphragm, and the diaphragm was sandwiched between two plates that were themselves riveted together. The outside plate looks to be brass, and the inside one a fiber of some sort (probably fiberglass). John
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Post by rikdog7 on Oct 23, 2020 9:30:32 GMT -8
Well after taking my first vacation to Catalina Island and getting in several days of diving, I finally got back to working on the Voit. I was able to get the 1st stage diaphragm out without ruining it, but it is cracking in the center. And by the way, Jon Council was in the Avalon Diving History museum during one of my surface intervals. I couldn't tell if it was my wetsuit dripping or just drool, but I left a puddle. Either way it was an awesome exhibit and a very informative time. First Stage Diaphragm by Richard Downing, on Flickr IMG_20201023_103540 by Richard Downing, on Flickr
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Post by scubalawyer on Oct 23, 2020 14:24:10 GMT -8
Looking good! You will want to replace that HP diaphragm anyway but congrats on getting it out without damage.
Did you just dive the UW park in Avalon or did you get out on a local dive boat? Many times I've spent a week in Avalon only diving the UW Park all day every day and never getting tired of it. I think you can still get permits from the Sheriff's office on the pier to dive the wreck of the Valient in Descanso Bay. You can swim to it from the park. That is still an awesome 100' dive!
The museum is really cool. Glad you got to see it.
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Post by rikdog7 on Oct 23, 2020 15:08:32 GMT -8
I spent 3 days diving the park while we were on the island. I enjoyed every dive. I also did 2 days of 3 tank boat dives on the West end while we stayed on the mainland. I have always heard it was a great place to dive and it met my expectations. I didn't know about getting a permit to dive the wreck. I will have to check that out for the next time I go back.
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Post by avalonjoe on Nov 8, 2022 19:29:42 GMT -8
Hi. I also found a voit Mariner. I want to re chrome the can and get the new green hoses and mouthpiece. I feel so lucky having Mike Nelson's first Regulator.
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Post by avalonjoe on Nov 8, 2022 19:32:39 GMT -8
WOW ! Outstanding job on that label, well done ! How do you do that? What would it caust to re paint mine?
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Post by scubalawyer on Nov 8, 2022 19:47:16 GMT -8
WOW ! Outstanding job on that label, well done ! How do you do that? What would it caust to re paint mine? Stuff to get: Green Testors Enamel Model Paint, a glass plate and some ultra fine wet/dry Emory cloth. 1. Slather the entire surface of label with paint. 2. Let dry. 3. Place wet Emory cloth on glass plate. Smooth out flat with finger. 4. Gently run painted label face down in a circular motion with even pressure checking often and stopping as soon as all raised silver areas are paint-free, then Bob's your Uncle! Edit: First remove old paint with paint thinner!
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Post by Aquala1 on Nov 9, 2022 9:07:31 GMT -8
Mark, is it listed anywhere the Testorrs paint colors that are closest to the original label colors? It would be great to know which blue is closest to the blue USD used on their labels.
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Post by scubalawyer on Nov 9, 2022 10:14:03 GMT -8
Mark, is it listed anywhere the Testorrs paint colors that are closest to the original label colors? It would be great to know which blue is closest to the blue USD used on their labels. No list that I know of. Just an online color palate.
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Post by h2operations on Nov 9, 2022 10:29:22 GMT -8
One thing that people don't realize is that the gasket is pretty well protected, as it is sealed by two metal surfaces. So while the edge can become a problem, the part under the two metal pieces (body and can) cannot be exposed to much. BUT, if you wish to take them apart, I highly recommend procuring the right tools, or making them. You can buy them from Herman, or make them yourself. The March 1970 U.S. Navy Diving Manual has a diagram of the tools required. Aquamaster & tools001 by John Ratliff, on Flickr I know, this is for the Aquamaster, not the DA Aqualung. But the body wrench and the tool for the ring are the same. The second stage is different, and the placement is different, but the body wrench placed into a vice gives a means of providing leverage on the body for removing the ring without putting any pressure on the brass can, which is rather delicate. John John , in the diagram what is the name of the #5 in the tools need?
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Post by artc on Nov 9, 2022 10:29:56 GMT -8
Mark, is it listed anywhere the Testorrs paint colors that are closest to the original label colors? It would be great to know which blue is closest to the blue USD used on their labels. Hi Ty. Testors gloss dark blue is the closest shade to the Aquamaster label. What I do is mix a large dollop of blue with dabs of Testors gloss black until I get an exact match. I then use a fine detail paint brush to fill in scratches and chips. You can get all the Testors paints and brushes on Amazon.
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Post by SeaRat on Nov 9, 2022 13:10:36 GMT -8
One thing that people don't realize is that the gasket is pretty well protected, as it is sealed by two metal surfaces. So while the edge can become a problem, the part under the two metal pieces (body and can) cannot be exposed to much. BUT, if you wish to take them apart, I highly recommend procuring the right tools, or making them. You can buy them from Herman, or make them yourself. The March 1970 U.S. Navy Diving Manual has a diagram of the tools required. Aquamaster & tools001 by John Ratliff, on Flickr I know, this is for the Aquamaster, not the DA Aqualung. But the body wrench and the tool for the ring are the same. The second stage is different, and the placement is different, but the body wrench placed into a vice gives a means of providing leverage on the body for removing the ring without putting any pressure on the brass can, which is rather delicate. John John , in the diagram what is the name of the #5 in the tools need? Yes, it is just called a "body wrench." It is meant to be used in a vise, along with the "Wrench (for tightning dented ring)," #4 in the diagram, to remove and replace the body from the top can. This comes right out of the U.S. Navy Diving Manual, March 1970John
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