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Post by james1979 on Dec 21, 2021 10:47:44 GMT -8
I might try to integrate an o'ring into the diaphragm skirt somehow on another one of these diaphragms. It'd be nice to have a snap-on diaphragm, but I'm not going to mess with this one just yet. I'm thinking that the excess material under the groove could be rolled up and over an o'ring, then glued up with silicone. I was thinking of hand-sewing a loose chain stitch (not sure that's the correct term for what I'm thinking of) all around the diameter then slathering on some silcone to seal and secure the flap, but I don't know if it would allow enough stretch to get the diaphragm on. Maybe roll it over as you described, silicone it, then wrap in plastic wrap and cover with a wide rubber band while it cures. Remove rubber band and plastic wrap, and you should have the captured O-ring with no stitching. Maybe.
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Post by vance on Dec 21, 2021 11:26:53 GMT -8
I am wondering of it will peel back. I guess the only way to know is to try it!
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Post by vance on Dec 21, 2021 11:29:23 GMT -8
"Probably should use a synthetic thread for the actual installation to prevent rot."
The string that they used to hold the original diaphragm on is super strong. Not sure what it is.
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Post by james1979 on Dec 21, 2021 11:49:07 GMT -8
I am wondering of it will peel back. I guess the only way to know is to try it! Even pure silicone (like the 2 part stuff I use) bonds to itself shockingly well.... I'll bet you a dollar it works!
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Post by vance on Dec 21, 2021 15:50:30 GMT -8
.......Then I turned down the end of a bit of 1/4" stainless tubing to fit in the second stage opening. I think this should work well. I need to attach this one to a tank and see if it explodes. Sorry for quoting myself, again. But, I hooked the 2nd diluter up to a tank today and subjected it to 800 psig. Didn't leak, didn't explode. The output on this one is far better than the older one. I made a second, higher diaphragm today. I pushed the center adjustment out another 1/4", so the height above the rim is now 1/2". When you install the diaphragm over the slightly larger diameter diluter body and use the retaining string, the diaphragm pulls down a bit. Hopefully, I'll get enough movement out of this one. A cool thing has happened from this project. I no longer feel like making a diaphragm without molds and vacuum pumps an all kinda equipment is a crazy idea! Thanks to Bill T and his encouragement, I'll be making diaphragms for some more of my regulators.
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Post by vance on Dec 21, 2021 16:03:05 GMT -8
I am wondering of it will peel back. I guess the only way to know is to try it! Even pure silicone (like the 2 part stuff I use) bonds to itself shockingly well.... I'll bet you a dollar it works! I might try it, but a bet like that is out of my range!
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Post by SeaRat on Dec 22, 2021 10:41:15 GMT -8
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Post by antique diver on Jan 1, 2022 17:38:55 GMT -8
Test diving the Aviation Oxygen Diluter At the mention of 58 degree water my diving friends remembered they had something else to do last Monday, so it was solo diving to test the new diaphragm and tuning adjustments covered in a previous post. The new diaphragm was a re-design to allow full throw of the demand lever; something my original could not do. The increase in performance at low and moderate breathing rate was very satisfying. At depths of up to 30' ease and smoothness of inhalation were as good as any two hose reg that I have. At higher breathing demand this reg is still lacking in sufficient performance, but the level at which that becomes apparent has been extended. Max depth attained was 43' and while not at its best there was still a noticeable improvement. I'm pretty satisfied with the results for now. The lack of performance at high demand may be in part due to a very small hp orifice aggravated further by the 500 psi input pressure. In the future I may try to make a more durable hp seat in hopes of getting it to handle 1800 psi, but for now I'll just leave well enough alone. It's good enough for me to enjoy the easy lake diving I'll be doing with it... actually better than I ever thought it would be when I started this project.
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Post by nikeajax on Jan 1, 2022 18:19:01 GMT -8
Bravo sir! Good job Bill, this is about what I was hoping you'd say eventually JB
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Post by antique diver on Jan 1, 2022 19:49:55 GMT -8
Bravo sir! Good job Bill, this is about what I was hoping you'd say eventually JB Thank you JB
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Post by vance on Jan 2, 2022 10:07:20 GMT -8
It's encouraging that it is delivering adequate air for relaxed diving! You've squeezed out performance well beyond the original conversion!
I'm still fussing with mine. It's working fairly well on the bench. Air delivery is much improved with the new diaphragm, and I am almost happy with it.
I need to make an IP adapter to ensure the IP is adequate. No idea what it's set to. I'm stalled b/c I can't remember where I put the dang baggie of pipe fittings...
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Post by vance on Jan 2, 2022 19:10:04 GMT -8
I just took first breaths off the diluter. Not bad! I'm using a length of 1/4" OD stainless tubing to pipe the discharge air right down the intake horn (as shown just above), and it seems to do the trick. I haven't measured it yet, but the cracking effort seems quite good. I put a much heavier spring in the second stage than the original, and it mought could be cut down a smidge, but I think it's pretty decent.
The tank mount/valve ass'y still needs to be figured out, and the bottom box and exhaust scheme finished, but it's about to be a regulator!
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Post by antique diver on Jan 3, 2022 7:24:30 GMT -8
I just took first breaths off the diluter. Not bad! I'm using a length of 1/4" OD stainless tubing to pipe the discharge air right down the intake horn (as shown just above), and it seems to do the trick. I haven't measured it yet, but the cracking effort seems quite good. I put a much heavier spring in the second stage than the original, and it mought could be cut down a smidge, but I think it's pretty decent. The tank mount/valve ass'y still needs to be figured out, and the bottom box and exhaust scheme finished, but it's about to be a regulator! I look forward to seeing how you mount the reg. I ended up mounting reg to the back plate and using a hose to connect to reg. Not what I would have preferred, but it's a good solid mount.
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Post by vance on Jan 5, 2022 16:33:01 GMT -8
Progress on the exhaust side! Perhaps a homemade DBE? The OGs didn't have Costco chicken cans back in the day, but they did use food cans to make bottom boxes, so this is legit. Besides, it fits so perfectly! I might make a metal intake horn to replace the pvc, but it's a lot of bother for not much....
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Post by vance on Jan 5, 2022 16:51:11 GMT -8
I just took first breaths off the diluter. Not bad! I'm using a length of 1/4" OD stainless tubing to pipe the discharge air right down the intake horn (as shown just above), and it seems to do the trick. I haven't measured it yet, but the cracking effort seems quite good. I put a much heavier spring in the second stage than the original, and it mought could be cut down a smidge, but I think it's pretty decent. The tank mount/valve ass'y still needs to be figured out, and the bottom box and exhaust scheme finished, but it's about to be a regulator! I look forward to seeing how you mount the reg. I ended up mounting reg to the back plate and using a hose to connect to reg. Not what I would have preferred, but it's a good solid mount. I'm thinking about a way to use a yoke. It might be done by making a new inlet fitting that eliminates the on/off oxygen flow valve. I'd add a 90 degree adapter and mount the yoke to it. The diluter would be "upside-down", orienting the intake horn straight down. Not sure how awkward that'd be.... There's a photo of a yoke attached to the inlet which I use for testing back a few pages. A new inlet fitting that came closer to the diluter body might not be necessary, since you want the blamed thing to be low anyway!
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