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Post by vance on Mar 28, 2021 16:55:55 GMT -8
That is most likely an R3 due to the high serial #. That isn’t definitive, since covers can be changed. But, the dial a breath feature was not offered on the R2. The main feature of the R3 is the second stage being in line with the intake horn. The R2 second stage is 90 degrees away. You can improve the performance of the reg by leaving the secondary diaphragm out and using a duckbill valve. You can use a usd db, and I have some nos dacor dbs if you want to keep it dacor.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 28, 2021 17:38:09 GMT -8
Yes Phil I was going to ask about using a duckbill since you included one with the R4. If you recommend using one for this project I’d be interested in what you have, just email me details, thanks!
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Post by SeaRat on Mar 28, 2021 21:44:23 GMT -8
Yes JB must be the friction plate I’m referring to; didn’t seem right to be removing them from that but glad I checked! What is the spacer John is referring to separating from the diaphragms? Thanks for the tips too, I’ll give it a try Stephan Yes, I was referring to the metal ring that have the exhaust horn attached to it. That is the “spacer” I was speaking of. It is #28, “Exhaust Ring Assembly” on your diagram. Do not try to remove the friction plate from the diaphragm; it’s permanently attached. John
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Post by vance on Mar 29, 2021 5:24:39 GMT -8
The next issue for your R3 will be a second stage seat. The old ones are cast or glued into the little cup on the second stage lever. I have tried various ways to replace them. I’ve not found a solid method for gluing a new disk on,so the mod I lit on is cutting down a usd seat holder and soldering it to the lever. The volcano orifice is then too tall and needs to be cut down. There are photos of this somewhere on a recent dacor thread. I’ll post one here when I return from NY.
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Post by SeaRat on Mar 29, 2021 10:10:48 GMT -8
The next issue for your R3 will be a second stage seat. The old ones are cast or glued into the little cup on the second stage lever. I have tried various ways to replace them. I’ve not found a solid method for gluing a new disk on,so the mod I lit on is cutting down a usd seat holder and soldering it to the lever. The volcano orifice is then too tall and needs to be cut down. There are photos of this somewhere on a recent dacor thread. I’ll post one here when I return from NY. When I turned over one of those seats, I simply glued it on with wet suit neoprene cement. That was the universal “fix” in the 1960s, and seems to work well. John
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Post by vance on Mar 29, 2021 13:06:50 GMT -8
That can’t be done with the R-1;2;3. I’m pretty sure that was cast into the seat, like the usd trademark and navy approved seats. THOSE can be dug out and replaced with a new seat, but the dacor has a domed cup, and needs some kind of revision to work. The later dacors, like many other regs, had a reversible seat which can be pried out and flipped over. A bit of rtv or superglue will hold them fine.
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Post by vance on Mar 29, 2021 13:26:42 GMT -8
Stephan, Check out the Dacor 2500 series thread here on the board. Enter Dacor 2500 series in the search bar at the top of the general interest home page. You will find a bunch of information about these. Reading about others’s experiences with a given reg will help you avoid the pitfalls they encountered. That isn’t the only thread concerning these. Search Dacor R-3, R-4, C-3, C-3N and you’ll find stuff that is relevant. This isn’t rocket science. You can learn how to service your own regulators with a bit of patience, common sense, and help from others. BTW, when you get a brother for your regulator, you’ll find you need a sister, an aunt, an uncle, grandparents, and cousins for them pretty soon.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2021 15:10:42 GMT -8
Cold, rainy Friday evening here, so I’m back at this project. I’d like to clean away some of the corrosion- just a brush and some vinegar okay to do? Aside from that, what do you guys suggest my next task is? Also, is this black indented part from attached pic what you had suggested flipping over, John? Thanks much Stephan Attachments:
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Post by nikeajax on Apr 9, 2021 16:47:40 GMT -8
Sorry, but them ain't the "flippable kind": Yes, vinegar and a toothbrush is poifik fer wha'char doin': make sure you neutralize it with baking soda then fresh water once yer done JB EDIT: Those type have been vulcanized to the lever EDIT-2: I see yer a Badgers fan
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Post by h2operations on Apr 9, 2021 17:00:17 GMT -8
Thank you for posting this. I was recently looking at a set of Dacor's but past due the parts availability issues. Plus they were asking WAY TOO much for them. This gave me some hope if I come across one that is better priced.
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Post by SeaRat on Apr 9, 2021 17:03:48 GMT -8
Sorry, but them ain't the "flippable kind": Yes, vinegar and a toothbrush is poifik fer wha'char doin': make sure you neutralize it with baking soda then fresh water once yer done JB EDIT: Those type have been vulcanized to the lever EDIT-2: I see yer a Badgers fan JB, Didn't you mention a long while back about making a new seat for this regulator using a paper punch on some material? Would you expound on that? Other than that, you might see whether, after cleaning it up, you could put it back together and still get a seal. It looks like the material is still in pretty good shape for the seat. John
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Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2021 17:28:54 GMT -8
Thank you JB! How do I tell if the seal is sufficient? Am I correct in that these models always deliver some air flow even without inhaling?
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Post by SeaRat on Apr 9, 2021 17:37:13 GMT -8
Thank you JB! How do I tell if the seal is sufficient? Am I correct in that these models always deliver some air flow even without inhaling? No, there should be no air flow without inhaling. If you have some, there is a leak and either the high pressure seat is leaking, or (more likely) the low pressure seat is leaking (the one you have pictured). These are "demand valves," meaning they only flow air when there is demand (inhaling). John
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Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2021 17:43:32 GMT -8
Uh oh, in that case the new R-4 also needs some attention 😬
When I first tried out this R-3, there was no sign of air flow without inhaling, which seemed good, but I thought it was not proper functioning for these. It’s fun getting into the DH world but man I feel stupid in the process!
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Post by nikeajax on Apr 9, 2021 17:43:55 GMT -8
You need a seat with a holder in order for the paper punch trick to work, e.g. like in any modern scuba reg--SORRY! They should lock up tight ideally, but if it's just a slow leak you should be able to work with that. PY was saying that you can get an old poppet-valve, cut the holder off, then solder it onto the lever if need be. Just a thought, but... what if you got some silicone caulk, the really hard kind filled the seat where the orifice makes contact?!?!?!? Again, just thinking out loud But, put it back together before you do anything about any potential leakage, eh? JB
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