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Post by nikeajax on Apr 16, 2021 10:52:47 GMT -8
Hey... stop beating yourself up! Knock it off man, you're very new to this, no one is perfect Check out these juicy babes... Yep, Miss Juicyjuice's reg is upside down too: it's an incredibly common mistake to make Those are Divairs BTW: Jaybird
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Post by snark3 on Apr 16, 2021 14:24:45 GMT -8
Thanks for the feedback guys! I should have mentioned that for this setup, it’s absolutely imperative that it is one I can have serviced relatively easily at almost any LDS. Even if it is simple to work on and easy to acquire parts, for my peace of mind I need to be hands-off for this one. How might this requirement affect your recommendations? also, I picked up another R3, hoping to apply what you’re teaching me here to this one as well. I'll stick with my Conshelf recommendation any competent dive shop, particularly an Aqualung dealer, should be able to service a Conshelf.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 16, 2021 20:31:35 GMT -8
Can the same be said for the scubapro 109 2nd as far as serviceability? If so, and if the 109 is generally considered to be a superior 2nd to the conshelf (?), it seems that my best path is herman’s suggestion of a conshelf/109 combo? I already own a really nice, old conshelf 14 first and second stage if that would be a good start to a setup.
I haven’t ignored the Titan II suggestion. I’ll be adding Jaybird’s beauty to the collection in a few months. First have to sell some dive stuff before buying more dive stuff before it gets out of control...
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Post by herman on Apr 17, 2021 3:19:21 GMT -8
Nothing wrong with the Conshelf second but the 109 is a better breathing reg. It has a user adjustment for cracking pressure and is a bit smaller. It should have the later "S" wing poppet in it but that is easy to change out. The Conshelf second would make a perfect octo however. I am assuming you mean to older metal ones, the later plastic ones were bad for cracking and internal parts coming loose. Current AL and SP regs use the same internal parts as these older regs so service parts are readily available....assuming the tech knows what he is doing. If you think you want to go the 109 route, I have a friend that rebuilds them for fun, odds are he has a freshly rebuilt one to sell.
If the 14 has the older 3/8 HP port, I would recommend getting a 3/8 to 7/16 adapter for the HP port. Nothing wrong with the older 3/8 size but new hoses that size are a bit hard to come by. You can order them but if you blow one on a trip you could be down for a while. With the adapter in your save a dive kit, you can use a modern size hose....or just go ahead and add it if you need a new HP hose anyway.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 17, 2021 4:26:54 GMT -8
Thanks! Yes I’m interested and I’ll message you about getting in contact with your friend. Good call on the adapter, thankfully I have an extra one and will make a save-a-dive kit. I should have made one long ago, but most dives are at my house so in the past when things go wrong, no big deal just boat back and grab a whole different rig
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Post by snark3 on Apr 17, 2021 16:15:51 GMT -8
Can the same be said for the scubapro 109 2nd as far as serviceability? If so, and if the 109 is generally considered to be a superior 2nd to the conshelf (?), it seems that my best path is herman’s suggestion of a conshelf/109 combo? I already own a really nice, old conshelf 14 first and second stage if that would be a good start to a setup. I haven’t ignored the Titan II suggestion. I’ll be adding Jaybird’s beauty to the collection in a few months. First have to sell some dive stuff before buying more dive stuff before it gets out of control... Herman knows much more than I, so I'll defer to his suggestion. I will throw one more thing out there. I have personally seen techs in dive shops tell people "I can't service that because I can't get parts for it". This happened at a ScubaPro dealer who couldn't get Aqualung parts and an Aqualung dealer who couldn't get ScubaPro parts. I think we all know this was "horse hockey" they just didn't want to service the other guys stuff, so you may end up having to have different dive shops service your first and second, if your LDS is anything like the ones around here
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Post by herman on Apr 18, 2021 3:00:07 GMT -8
Depending on the dealer, it's not totally hockey depending on the reg line they carry. A SP dealer can't get parts from Aqualung since he is not a dealer and vise versa, rare few larger shops are dealers for both and can get the parts. I was assuming he was going to service his own gear and any away from home work would be of the "oh crap" got to fix it now variety. Even then, just go to the dealer that handles the manuf of the problem child. I carry a spare first and second stage as well as rebuild kits for the regs I travel with. It's rare I can't fix the issue in the room with a simple parts swap, usually a HP or LP seat. Even if you don't service you own regs, non-US dive shops are a lot more likely to use your parts to do the work. If he intends to have his gear serviced by a dealer, then keeping the manuf the same is a very good idea unless his local shop handles both manuf, then it's not an issue.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 18, 2021 14:09:08 GMT -8
I messaged the Milwaukee-area small dive shop that I’ve started going to recently about a 109 and they replied- “Yes, we service Scubapro, Aqualung, Apeks, Atomic, Hollis, Oceanic, OTS, Interspiro and Mares.”
I was glad to see that! Good thinking on traveling with extra parts. If I did this, would most technicians in dive destination areas help you out if you had the parts available for them? I’m not only new to vintage diving, but really diving in general as I’ve only traveled once to do it, and that was using rental gear with no worries
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Post by cnotthoff on Apr 18, 2021 16:16:25 GMT -8
It sounds like you've got a good shop in your area. Probably some old fart in the back.
Your best bet when traveling is to rely on your own skills. Services vary WIDELY from resort to resort. During my last 2 trips, I ended up in the resort's repair shop debugging rental and other diver's gear.
I've taught Repair and Maintenance Courses that cover the basics of field service and adjustments. If you ask the tech at your LDS, they may be willing to show you a few things, especially if you are a loyal customer.
Good Dives, Charlie
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Post by Deleted on Apr 24, 2021 6:27:27 GMT -8
It had been a few weeks in silicone, so I just took the diaphragms out of the bag, and was saddened to see that this tear had somehow formed in the main one. R-3 project is over indefinitely I suppose 😞 Attachments:
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Post by nikeajax on Apr 24, 2021 7:50:28 GMT -8
Welllll, dang! Send our friend James a PM: he's been making them, an' I think he an' PY got'em figgured out--I hope? JB
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Post by vance on Apr 24, 2021 8:18:16 GMT -8
I don't think James is happy with his diaphragms just yet. There are some casting technique issues still.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 24, 2021 11:07:13 GMT -8
Best of luck to James in his development of them, his service is appreciated!
Is it normal to have had my diaphragms crinkle like they did with the silicone exposure? I figured it was normal sign of revival, but it seemed to have caused the tear. Or was the break in this spot inevitable in near future with some use, regardless of the silicone?
If this was from something I could have avoided, I’d like to know before making same mistake on this other one 😬
Edit: even if it hadn’t torn, it doesn’t seem to have been usable because it has expanded in diameter a good half inch!
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Post by SeaRat on Apr 24, 2021 12:06:29 GMT -8
It had been a few weeks in silicone, so I just took the diaphragms out of the bag, and was saddened to see that this tear had somehow formed in the main one. R-3 project is over indefinitely I suppose 😞 I would not count on the R-3 project being "over indefinitely." First, this is a rather small tear, on the primary diaphragm. I'm curious whether you used silicone grease, or silicone spray? The reason is that silicone spray probably has some ingredients which may have caused the problem. Now, this is a small hole, and can be easily patched using the silicone _________ (I'll have to lookup the name). This diaphragm will not be subjected directly to water, and so a good repair and it may be usable. I'm not sure about the expansion, and you'll have to make a judgement on that one. John
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Post by Deleted on Apr 24, 2021 12:28:40 GMT -8
Thanks John. Yes the fact that it was the spray (3M 08877 for the record) must be the issue. I’m sure thankful to not have dived into the second one with same product. I’m glad to hear that a repair is possible. I’m wondering, when people have their diaphragms go bad, what is the typical condition necessitating replacement? (If tears like this can be fixed no problem)
As far as the expansion is concerned, it seems that I would need to trim the edge around the thing and drill some new holes in it, unless the final product doing this would be absolute junk haha. I suppose anything is worth a try at this point Stephan
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