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Post by james1979 on Apr 24, 2021 13:54:07 GMT -8
On new diaphragms, I'm having casting technique/silicone issues... I owe John a set, and should know tonight if I solved my issues or am still chasing gremlins. I'll let you all know as it goes... and leave it to John and PY to determine if they are up to snuff.
Respectfully,
James
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Post by vance on Apr 24, 2021 13:56:18 GMT -8
Late diaphragms are often wrinkled. I've never seen an early domed type wrinkle, with the caveat that soaking rubber in stuff like ArmorAll, etc. can cause the rubber to swell. A lot. Please post a photo of yours. I've been thinking of a way to cover torn diaphragms with pantyhose nylon and spreadable silicone to patch the tear. The rubber would need to be clean, and dry. Not sure how it would work, but I have a couple of torn diaphragms that I might get around to experimenting with. In the old days, people would use condoms to patch their diaphragms. No, not those diaphragms! The regulator ones, duh!
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Post by nikeajax on Apr 24, 2021 14:32:42 GMT -8
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Post by vance on Apr 24, 2021 14:43:53 GMT -8
I just looked at a USD diaphragm in a Dacor box. I don't see how it would work. They aren't a lot bigger than the Dacor box, but there would need to be a 3/8" flange. It just doesn't seem to be possible, b/c flattening the diaphragm for the flange cuts down the travel.
James will succeed. He's 95% there.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 24, 2021 14:47:08 GMT -8
Here they both are, although the only one of interest in fixing really would be the intake. They are concentric with the metal rings thanks JB, an exact product was going to be my next question! Attachments:
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Post by vance on Apr 24, 2021 14:55:45 GMT -8
If you let them sit for some time (??) they will shrink back to original size, I think.
I used to soak rubber parts from early Honda motorcycles in ArmorAll and would be amazed at how swollen the parts would get. Then, after letting them sit in the air for a long time, they'd go back to normal.
Yo must have used something with solvents in it.
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Post by nikeajax on Apr 24, 2021 15:13:53 GMT -8
Yes, I agree with PY, wipe it down and let it off-gas, it will probably shrink back: my sleep deprived brain meant to say that Ummmm, maybe here's where some of PY's super glue would work for patching?!?!??! Please give us a product link Phil JB
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Post by vance on Apr 24, 2021 15:56:45 GMT -8
That stuff does stick, but it's too hard, and will probably allow a split next to the repair.
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Post by nikeajax on Apr 24, 2021 16:02:50 GMT -8
Ohh man, yer just hoggin' it all fur yerself, either that or it never really existed-- HMMMPH! JB
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Post by SeaRat on Apr 24, 2021 16:16:34 GMT -8
The product I'd rcommend is Clear RTV Silicone adhesive sealant. It dries flexible, and was recommended to me by someone here on this site (Jaybird, I think). I used it on a White Stag mask made of silicone which had a tear in it larger than yours on the Dacor diaphragm. Here's a photo featuring that mask: Masks-1 by John Ratliff, on Flickr The White Stag mask is #5 in this photo. If you'll look, you'll see a bright spot on the right side of the nose pocket; that is the Clear RTV Silicone sealant on the mask. In order for this to work, you'll need to clean the area well, to get the silicone off it. But because it's a silicone-based adhesive, you probably won't need much more than soap and water. John
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Post by vance on Apr 24, 2021 16:28:24 GMT -8
I know JB must be joking. The o-ring stuff sticks well, and I repaired a Dacor diaphragm with it. It worked, but I'm not confident. After 1000s of cycles, it might fail next to the repair. I have no data, just a feeling.
A new one is better. Hopefully, we are on the way.
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Post by vance on Apr 25, 2021 7:33:59 GMT -8
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Post by SeaRat on Apr 25, 2021 8:28:54 GMT -8
You know, from a vintage diving perspective, you could also use wet suit neoprene cement, and cement a small piece of skin-one-side neoprene over this split. To use neoprene cement, coat both sides (diaphragm and neoprene) with neoprene cement, let it dry completely to the touch, then re-apply a coat to both sides, let dry to sticky, and press the two sides together. So this is another option.
John
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Post by nikeajax on Apr 25, 2021 10:51:28 GMT -8
John, I think that's what PY was suggesting actually with the condoms So, Stephan, head over to the Dollar Store if you don't already have some: I think the less fancy the better, no? This may at least buy you a bit of time to at least play with your regulator, eh? As an aside, my wife's aunt was a nun, and worked in Lesotho, Africa as a midwife in the 1960's and '70's. Whenever my wife hears the word condom she chuckles and invariably says, "I can always hear Aunt Ro'e pronouncing it 'cone-dome'..." JB
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Post by vance on Apr 25, 2021 15:09:21 GMT -8
The nozzle can be removed from the body with prodigious amounts of heat and torque. You need a BFT* as well as a BFW, and a hefty BFV on a bench.
The nozzle has a brass washer under it, and the nozzle is probably fixed with some kind of sealer. Whatever it is, this stuff is hard to get loose, and if you do break it, you'll need something to replace it when you reassemble.
Upshot: Don't mess with it. It isn't necessary unless the nozzle, seat, or yoke is damaged or something like that.
I had a bent yoke on an otherwise perfect R-2 that I needed to swap out (thanks, JB for the parts), so I clamped it in my big vise, heated it with a propane torch, and cranked it off with a huge crescent wrench.
When I reassembled it, it leaked around the threads. I used blue loctite to get it to stop. Next guy will need a BFV, BFT, and a BFW to get it off.
Circle of life, eh?
*BF stands for Big F***in'(add noun).
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