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Post by Jim Perdway on Sept 17, 2021 16:54:57 GMT -8
For a couple reasons I want to get this reg 1. I already have some repro yellow hoses and a large, straight, black mouthpiece because I like how they look. I originally had them on my RAM but wasn't liking it and want to use them in an accurate manner. If the yellow hoses and mp are likely not accurate for this item, please let me know.
2. The JTFM story is pretty interesting, and my dad used to love window shopping there in the early-mid 60s as young kid. He's not real big on diving the double hosers yet but perhaps the nostalgia factor here will change things
I'm unfamiliar with the short vs long yoke on these. Before buying, I would appreciate learning about the implications of having a short yoke to make sure I'm not making a major mistake.
Thank you |
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Post by nikeajax on Sept 17, 2021 17:12:28 GMT -8
If you'd like, I can reproduce the artwork for those stickers if you can't get that actual regulator: you'd just need to have them printed.
Jaybird
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Post by herman on Sept 17, 2021 17:46:23 GMT -8
The only difference between a long and short yoke is the length. If you are using J valves or just monitoring (estimating) your tank pressure, then it makes no difference which you use. If you want/need to use a banjo with the Mistral, you must use a long yoke as the short one is not long enough to add the banjo between the tank and reg. It's easy to swap out a short yoke for a long one. DAAM/RAM and Mistal yokes both come on long and short versions but are NOT interchangeable. Rob has banjo's and long yokes for sale. www.thescubamuseum.com/products/products.htm |
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Post by SeaRat on Sept 17, 2021 18:17:45 GMT -8
Herman got the info correct. The long yoke was a later addition, and if it were mine I'd keep the shorter yoke and use it with a set of my doubles with a second post. That way it is original, and the second post on my doubles gives me the use of a single hose with all the bells and whistles available (LP hose, octopus, SPG, etc.).
Using this Mistral with a J-valve and a valve with a HP outlet is another alternative (Dacor had these).
John
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Post by Jim Perdway on Oct 25, 2021 16:27:59 GMT -8
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Post by nikeajax on Oct 25, 2021 16:38:59 GMT -8
Stephan, very fun: those shop-stickers really make it pop! They make it look very official/old-pro  JB |
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Post by SeaRat on Oct 26, 2021 9:41:58 GMT -8
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Post by technidiver on Oct 26, 2021 20:23:03 GMT -8
That reg looks awesome with the new yellow hoses! I was thinking of pickinh a JTFM reg up for my collection. The story behind the regs is a great one. Jack was an interesting character… TD |
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Post by Jim Perdway on Apr 26, 2023 7:22:18 GMT -8
A while back I transferred the yellow hoses/straight mouthpiece from this one to another Mistral. The other one's yellow on label is much more vibrant and I purchased it with that hoseloop (in very crusty, rotted condition), so it's likely accurate. Here is the updated setup for this one on a tank with similar shop sticker. If I had to keep just one DH, this is it. Anyone have a good method for cleaning that white crap off of tank?  Jack the Frogman Co. Mistral + tank by Jim Perdway, on Flickr |
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Post by nikeajax on Apr 26, 2023 10:47:26 GMT -8
Stephan, have ya tried a magic-eraser?
JB
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Post by Jim Perdway on Apr 26, 2023 18:03:31 GMT -8
Yeah unfortunately I tried that few years ago with no luck. I actually haven’t tried anything on this specific tank, but I have another galvanized USD tank that has had white spots all over for years.
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Post by SeaRat on Apr 26, 2023 18:35:13 GMT -8
So, those "white spots" are probably zinc mixed with something else. Here's a discussion of how zinc coats and protects steel. nordicgalvanizers.com/corrosion-of-zinc-coatings/This may give some hints about getting the white spots cleaned off; but it may be that you don't want to do that too. John |
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Post by nikeajax on Apr 27, 2023 7:07:50 GMT -8
Stephan, I think John may be right about your not wanting to get rid of the spots. That said, you might try some 000-steelwool and WD-40 because it acts as a: lubricant, rust preventive, penetrant and moisture displacer, not unlike when you clean a rifle-bore with penetrating oil, it may solve/loosen some of schmootz.
Just a thought,
JB
EDIT: I should mention, don't scrub too hard with the steelwool, you may even try a plastic brush instead
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Post by Jim Perdway on Apr 27, 2023 9:43:18 GMT -8
Hmmm thanks guys, perhaps I’d best just leave it, thanks for the advice.
JB, just a side note but I happened to have “The Wizard” blasting pretty hard in car when I saw your comment there. Mainstream one but probably my favorite
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Post by Jim Perdway on Apr 27, 2023 9:51:29 GMT -8
It’s very tempting to try the WD method carefully just to make them not look like an entire flock of birds dive-bombed my tanks
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