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Post by tomcatpc on Apr 21, 2022 0:11:46 GMT -8
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Post by Jim Perdway on Apr 21, 2022 4:13:37 GMT -8
The exterior chrome looks very nice! Yes it can be saved with a little help from your friends. I sent Phil some R-3 parts maybe he could hook you up with his lever mod if you send him your lever and volcano orifice and a tip. He has Dacor duckbills you could use in it, or for more $ you could get a repro exhaust from James at some point. You’ll need a repro main from him for sure. (I have one in grey I can sell you if interested) Repro HP diaphragms for these are available too if needed, the link is in another thread.
In the meantime, I guess disassemble and clean up the corrosion as best as you can. But don’t do that thing that JB said not to do
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Post by tomcatpc on Apr 21, 2022 7:05:52 GMT -8
So this is an R-3? Mark
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Post by vance on Apr 21, 2022 7:34:22 GMT -8
Yes, it's an R-3. The R-1,2 have the second stage 90 degrees away from the intake horn, and a slightly different label.
You can use a duckbill instead of an exhaust diaphragm (with slightly better exhaust effort). Are the diaphragms missing or bad?
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Post by tomcatpc on Apr 21, 2022 7:55:20 GMT -8
They are long gone (as in way before I got the remains seen in the photo). Mark
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Post by nikeajax on Apr 21, 2022 8:07:18 GMT -8
Get one of James' diaphragms for sure, as well as a duckbill. The lever seat is vulcanized on, like the tilt-valves, so yes, get one Phil's mod's for that as well...
JB
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Post by vance on Apr 21, 2022 8:09:59 GMT -8
Check out the several threads here concerning these 2500 series regs.
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Post by SeaRat on Apr 21, 2022 8:43:48 GMT -8
When I was looking for my first regulator, I had the opportunity to buy a R-3. This was in 1959. I elected not to (more expensive than the Healthways Scuba), but I did try it out on a tank. It breathed very well, and actually would free flow if I removed my mouth during an inhalation. Because of age, it doesn't do as well as when new now. But that was a pretty good regulator in its time.
John
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Post by nikeajax on Apr 21, 2022 10:20:48 GMT -8
Mark, I'm going to assume you're handy with tools, as you have a penchant for funky old machines.
Go down to the hardware store and get some neoprene. Scrape/cut off the old seat: make sure you have a clean surface. With a torch, heat up the lever, then place the new seat: you may want to put a small weight on it to make sure it bonds to the area evenly. You could also use a neoprene second stage seat too. This will weld the seat onto the metal, the bond is on a molecular level.
Anyway, it's just a thought...
JB
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Post by vance on Apr 21, 2022 11:15:22 GMT -8
Because the second stage lever has a cup formed into it, there is no flat metal surface to bind to. That's why I cut the cup off of a USD poppet (or make a cup) and solder it to the lever.
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Post by nikeajax on Apr 22, 2022 11:54:17 GMT -8
Huh, maybe it's just me; but is the IP-adjuster on Marks reg put in backwards/upside-down? I mean, shouldn't there be an adjuster slot: it's been a long time since I've worked on mine, but I thought I should say something just in case, ya know? JB
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Post by Jim Perdway on Apr 22, 2022 13:16:24 GMT -8
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Post by tomcatpc on Apr 22, 2022 13:23:22 GMT -8
No updates on the getting this up and running. This is most likely going to be a long-term project. Thanks for the interest. Mark
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Post by Jim Perdway on Apr 22, 2022 13:27:36 GMT -8
Understandable and my R-3 project was shelved for months, but one thing I've learned even just one year into this hobby: get the necessary parts while you can!!
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Post by SeaRat on Apr 22, 2022 14:09:09 GMT -8
There is no IP adjustment on the R-1 through R-3 Dacor regulators. John
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