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Post by vance on Apr 22, 2022 14:51:54 GMT -8
John is correct. There is no built-in adjustment for the 2500s. However, adjustments could be made by shimming the spring or modifying the pin. That would be tedious, since each adjustment would require disassembly/assembly/test/repeat.
I just started a new thread on Dacor DH IP adjusters and a potential mod to add one to the R-1,2,3 regs. I posted some photos of the early and late HP diaphragm/HP spring and pin interface assemblies with and without provision for IP adjustment.
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Post by nikeajax on Apr 22, 2022 15:11:31 GMT -8
OK, good! I just wanted to make sure for Mark's sake: one can never tell when a previous owner has done something stewpud...
JB
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Post by Jim Perdway on Apr 22, 2022 16:33:49 GMT -8
John when you say yours doesn’t perform as well due to age, is this even with James’ new diaphragms? Idk if it affects performance much but new HP diaphragms are available as I think you’ve seen on that Facebook group.
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Post by SeaRat on Apr 22, 2022 17:01:04 GMT -8
John when you say yours doesn’t perform as well due to age, is this even with James’ new diaphragms? Idk if it affects performance much but new HP diaphragms are available as I think you’ve seen on that Facebook group. Yes, as the first stage spring is under constant tension, and over a fifty year period of time, it will loose some of its "umph." So the IP is less, which affects the performance much more than the diaphrgm. The diaphragms are important, but the spring is more important. I experimented with shimming the spring, and it is very difficult with this particular spring. It isn't like the piston first stages, as there is a lot of room both above and below the spring, and it tends to move around. If I could figure the initial spring's force, and buy a new spring, that would be more ideal. John
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Post by vance on Apr 22, 2022 18:29:37 GMT -8
It has been my experience with the 2500s that the IP is very high: 160+ psig. I think the idea is to make it deliver more air, but that makes it difficult to get a seal on the second stage seat. I think IP needs to be restrained a bit on these.
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Post by tomcatpc on Apr 24, 2022 22:43:28 GMT -8
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Post by nikeajax on Apr 25, 2022 9:00:18 GMT -8
Mark, clean your pieces then reassemble them. Next, put it on a tank and turn on the air: note: you're not going to have any of the levers or push rod installed. If it locks up, depressurize by inserting a blunt probe into the hole where the push-pin goes. If it free-flows, you'll need to resurface the valve-block. My method is to use 600-G wet-dry paper, then 1,500 on a VERY flat surface, like a piece of glass, or the top of a washing machine/clothes dryer. You can either go in a figure-eight, or, make three short strokes, about an inch long, turn 90-degres, repeat until 360... I prefer the later method. JB
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Post by SeaRat on Apr 25, 2022 11:08:58 GMT -8
Mark, I magnified this photo, and the seat material itself looks okay. It appears that either salt or sand grains have adhered to the seat. Clean it up, and the regulator (I assume the same is for the inside of the first stage), and it may just seal up fine. A little-paid-attention-to fact is that in both the diaphragm and piston first stages, the seat doesn’t have any pressure against it until it is pressurized. So no wear occurs, except by corrosion. But with the seat surface, there would be no corrosion (just on the holder). So with a good cleanup, you may be fine. John
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Post by tomcatpc on Apr 25, 2022 11:19:05 GMT -8
Well, I did put it on a tank and it leaked. But that was before I took it apart. I'll give a clean up and see how it turns out after that. Mark
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Post by nikeajax on Apr 25, 2022 13:07:30 GMT -8
Mark, use some kind of brush to clean inside of your first stage, making sure all of the schmootz is cleaned out of it as it looks like you have lots particulate from the sintered filter to damage the surfaces of the seat: so yes, do resurface that block!
JB
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Post by SeaRat on Apr 25, 2022 14:02:02 GMT -8
One other thing I didn’t mention above is that the salt crystals you see in this photo (kinda assuming it’s salt) are what happens when a diver leaves off the cap after a dive. Sometimes, especially off a raft or rubber boat (Zodiac, for instance) there is a lot of salt water in the bottom of the boat. A regulator without the cap on the first stage (or even with the cap if it does’n have an O-ring on it) will allow water inside the first stage. I saw this happen when a USAF Pararescueman left the cap off a Calypso regulator, and it got into the bottom of a rubber raft we were diving from in Puget Sound. I gave him a bit of a talking to, and we had to service the regulator.
John
PS, that first stage cap is where we used to store our spare O-ring for the valve. Now, many are made of rubber and without the groove for an O-ring.
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Post by tomcatpc on Apr 30, 2022 22:21:17 GMT -8
It looks like I have the HP Seat locking up like it should. Until I get this project farther along, I will say it is good up until this point. Next, is getting the LP Seat sported out. Mark
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Post by vance on May 1, 2022 16:21:08 GMT -8
Mark, I'll mod your 2nd stage lever so it will accept a replaceable seat. Just send me your lever and second stage volcano bolt and I'll mod it for you. You just pay postage. I have extra second stages and can make them, so if you want to go back (no reason to), you aren't stuck.
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Post by tomcatpc on May 1, 2022 22:50:33 GMT -8
Vance, I'll get ahold of you in a day or so.
I guess next onto the issue of the main diaphragm and exhaust duckbill retrofit?
Would the regular duckbill for a US Divers/Voit double hose work? Mark
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Post by nikeajax on May 2, 2022 8:16:33 GMT -8
Would the regular duckbill for a US Divers/Voit double hose work? Mark Yes, it sure will... JB
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