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Post by Jim Perdway on May 2, 2022 12:15:11 GMT -8
I’d go OEM since Phil has them
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Post by SeaRat on May 2, 2022 12:22:02 GMT -8
I have an OEM duckbill in my Dacor Clipper, and it works well. It's not silicone, and so precautions will need to be taken or it eventually will "melt."
John
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Post by Jim Perdway on May 2, 2022 13:56:56 GMT -8
What precautions do you take with them?
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Post by nikeajax on May 2, 2022 14:35:24 GMT -8
Heat and ozone avoidance: keep it well gooped up with silicone. John may have some others to stay away from too.
JB
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Post by Jim Perdway on May 2, 2022 15:34:05 GMT -8
Thanks, previously I didn’t grease them up so that’s good to know. I have a couple in talc for reserve
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Post by nikeajax on May 2, 2022 16:00:01 GMT -8
Just to be clear: ozone comes from electric motors and arcing wires, but is also a natural occurrence of lightning... Ozone, or trioxygen, is an inorganic molecule with the chemical formula O-3, or three oxygen molecules bonded together.   So keep yer gear away from electronics!!!!! JB |
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Post by vance on May 3, 2022 10:33:55 GMT -8
Thanks in part to Skip, Mark has a new lever on the way!
This one was made differently, so the volcano doesn't need to be turned down. I thinned the square under the puck cup to make its profile lower. I installed it in my R-3 and adjusted the bends to get a good seat, so I hope Mark doesn't have a lot of fiddling to do.
Hopefully, we'll see more photos of the rebuild!
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Post by tomcatpc on May 19, 2022 23:10:23 GMT -8
Alright, it looks like I can move onto the next stage of getting this back in the water. Next, I need to locate a main diaphragm, duckbill, hoses etc.
I got the new lever put in tonight. When the air was turned on there was a leak. It turned out that I did not have the screws and orifice screw? tight enough. Torquing them stopped the leak, which was a big relief!!!
Progress, little by little...
Mark
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Post by antique diver on May 20, 2022 4:24:25 GMT -8
Dacor HP seats are available, so if yours doesn't work out let me know. Sounds like you have it under control.
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Post by tomcatpc on May 20, 2022 5:49:56 GMT -8
At the time of me typing this, the HP Seat is working. Not saying things don't go bad, but at this moment it looks good! Thanks for the heads up if I need one in the future!
Mark
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Post by vance on May 20, 2022 14:54:41 GMT -8
Alright, it looks like I can move onto the next stage of getting this back in the water. Next, I need to locate a main diaphragm, duckbill, hoses etc. I got the new lever put in tonight. When the air was turned on there was a leak. It turned out that I did not have the screws and orifice screw? tight enough. Torquing them stopped the leak, which was a big relief!!! Progress, little by little... Mark I'm glad you got it to seal up! These can be a PITA to get a seal AND correct lever heights AND proper contact points for both levers. Your second stage lever should be pretty good, but you may need to tweak and fuss with a bend in the diaphragm lever at the very end to make the bump the contact, not the sharp end. You want to keep the end from digging into the plate, same as you need to do to keep the second stage lever end from digging into the diaphragm lever. Be sure to smooth out any tool marks or old rough spots due to use. As has been mentioned in the past, the IP on these can be very high, which can make it tough to get a seal and a reasonable cracking pressure. There's no simple adjustment. A modded OEM IP bolt, or using an OEM R-4 and up adjuster is the best solution. You could machine a concavity in the OEM contact bolt or shorten the pin. But, that would be labor intensive since you'd have to assemble, test/disassemble, machine/assemble, test, etc., until it's right or you went too far..... |
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So keep yer gear away from electronics!!!!!
