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Post by vance on Nov 3, 2023 13:34:18 GMT -8
I have always thought those were cool and rugged looking regulators, but haven't had one. I do know where one is that's missing a reserve lever, and hoping I can do a little trading with the current owner. I would need to make a decent looking lever, so your photo helps. I'm curious about the overall weight, so if you get a chance check that out. BTW, I think the bent yoke screw is more indicative of a tank falling over with reg attached instead of banging around in a box. I (thought) it was straight when I bought it and it was bent when I got it. The regs were loose and banging into each other in the box, the box was broken open, and the other reg got banged up a bit as well. Shipping damage! Bummer. Then, I looked at the auction photos again. Durn it, Bill's right again! The yoke screw was bent already. Bill's take is probably what happened. Or, Yuri Geller got ahold of it....
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Post by vance on Nov 3, 2023 14:53:20 GMT -8
I don't understand the ins-and-outs of this regulator. I need to study Ranier's explanation of how they work, as well as the diagrams. Problem is, Ranier's English text is difficult for me to fully comprehend due to interpretive language issues. I'll do the work to try to understand.
The design is very odd. They don't work like any other regulator I've seen. The intake and exhaust sides are kind of connected so the exhaust side actuates the main diaphragm (!!!!).
Don't even get me started about how they put an exhaust non-return in the hose loop. There is much (for me) to be learned here.
It seems like there's very little movement of the main diaphragm. I haven't quite figured it out.
The reserve adds a layer of complexity. It might be more connected with general operation than other regulator's reserve valves?
CG-45 info says the sand cast versions are 4 lbs, and the die cast versions are 3 lbs. The sand cast versions had a sheet metal reserve lever, and the later ones had a die cast version.
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Post by snark3 on Nov 3, 2023 15:53:57 GMT -8
Phil my understanding is that the non return valve in the exhaust side is not a complete mushroom, it's only about half. The levers are activated off the exhaust hose. When the levers are activated air is forced through the intake hose similar, I believe, to an over pressure breathing. The levers working off the exhaust is why I say this is a horrible design.
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Post by vance on Nov 3, 2023 16:13:04 GMT -8
I think it worked pretty well, though. That statement is made referencing claims by the manufacturer, and not personal experience.
I'm ruminating over how the valve is balanced. The HP valve body has an offset so the yoke (tank connection) is higher than the valve guts. Below the yoke is a hole drilled through the valve body to the outside, where the #14 metering valve post is exposed to ambient pressure. On the inside, the assembly is exposed to equal ambient pressure, making the valve balanced?
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Post by snark3 on Nov 3, 2023 16:21:23 GMT -8
I'm going here on experience with snorkels. When using a snorkel the air you inhale starts off with what you just exhaled. I for one can never get enough air through a snorkel. I always end up out of breath when using a snorkel.
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Post by nikeajax on Nov 3, 2023 16:29:19 GMT -8
I'm going here on experience with snorkels. When using a snorkel the air you inhale starts off with what you just exhaled. I for one can never get enough air through a snorkel. I always end up out of breath when using a snorkel. Skip, is the snorkel's bore too big, that can cause that to happen, bigger ain't better! Anyway, carry on gents JB
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Post by vance on Nov 3, 2023 16:30:55 GMT -8
I think there might be a dead space issue here, where you're breathing in already exhaled air. Again, not sure.
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Post by antique diver on Nov 3, 2023 19:39:31 GMT -8
Phil said "Or, Yuri Geller got ahold of it...."
Funny you should mention Yuri! I was thinking of the bent spoons, etc. just the day before you posted that. Really!
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Post by nikeajax on Nov 4, 2023 7:56:53 GMT -8
Phil, you could probably heat it with a torch to straighten it back: perhaps use some kind of heat-sink on the handle to isolate the heat too.
JB
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Post by vance on Nov 4, 2023 8:06:32 GMT -8
I'm considering threading a hole in a block of metal to screw the yoke into for heating and bending. It's a brass part, so I've got to be careful!
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Post by antique diver on Nov 4, 2023 9:38:08 GMT -8
I'm considering threading a hole in a block of metal to screw the yoke into for heating and bending. It's a brass part, so I've got to be careful! Sounds like a good idea. The straight female threads might even help straighten the yoke screw without you having to apply much side torque. Probably should try some tests on a similarly bent regular brass bolt out to see what happens.
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Post by SeaRat on Nov 4, 2023 9:53:21 GMT -8
I'm going here on experience with snorkels. When using a snorkel the air you inhale starts off with what you just exhaled. I for one can never get enough air through a snorkel. I always end up out of breath when using a snorkel. I can breathe off a snorkel forever. I once completed an 8+ hour swim in the Umpqua River with my snorkel always in my mouth. I did cut off the snorkel at the top of my head, whcih slightly shortened the tube. But I think it has to do with how we breath. We need both deep inhalations and deep exhalations in order to use a snorkel correctly. If that is done, there is plenty of O2 for breathing. I was, by the way, using my favorite snorkel, the Scubapro Shotgun snorkel, which has a separate pathway for any water that enters the snorkel to be exhausted prior to getting to my mouth. Umpqua Swim August 1988003 by John Ratliff, on Flickr John
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Post by nikeajax on Nov 4, 2023 10:14:40 GMT -8
I agree about screwing it into something to stabilize it: that will act as a heat-sink as well, and if you use a small enough torch tip, you can keep the heat very localized. Also, I think maybe some kind of anti seizing compound on the threads to keep it from locking up from carbonizing. A heat-sink on the handle will make a good lever too. Just brain storming JB
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Post by nikeajax on Nov 4, 2023 10:18:05 GMT -8
Phil my understanding is that the non return valve in the exhaust side is not a complete mushroom, it's only about half. The levers are activated off the exhaust hose. When the levers are activated air is forced through the intake hose similar, I believe, to an over pressure breathing. The levers working off the exhaust is why I say this is a horrible design. Skip, I wouldn't know first hand, but the only bad thing/weakness about the reg I've ever heard is that it's made from aluminum, which doesn't play well with salt water. JB
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Post by vance on Nov 4, 2023 12:32:58 GMT -8
I think you're confusing this with the aluminum DivAir, JB.
All of the Northills have a solid brass casting, which probably doesn't play well with salt water either! There's lots of brass inside, too. The brass bits remind me of the guts in a Bendix diluter. These things are heavy!
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