|
|
Post by inkedhdrider on Jul 11, 2014 14:31:23 GMT -8
Hello folks,
This may seem like a remedial question but does anyone have any info on a vintage tank backpack's rigging? I got one off of eBay and it only has the belt but not the straps where the arms go through. As I've never seen a vintage tank backpack in person I'm kind of at a loss as to what all I need to make it work. When I Google it all I get are full backpack sets. Anyone have a diagram and or list of all I'd need to make it work?
Much appreciated
|
|
|
|
Post by herman on Jul 11, 2014 16:05:31 GMT -8
The majority were a single length of webbing (sometimes cut at the left shoulder for a buckle or snaps)that made up both the shoulder and waist strap. It would help if you can post a photo of what you have or a link to the ebay listing, that way we can better help you with how it was configured.
|
|
|
|
Post by scubadiverbob on Jul 11, 2014 16:18:55 GMT -8
Sorry, when I first learned to dive (NASDS), I started with a harness. Didn't like the way the tank sorta moved around on my back, went to a backpack and never went back .... I'm sure you can find help here; as, many here dive with harnesses ...... hope this isn't dating myself; I'm still sorta young ... I think.
Robert
|
|
|
|
Post by nikeajax on Jul 11, 2014 19:22:12 GMT -8
If I may suggest if you're not worried about authenticity, then use polyester-webbing. It has the highest strength as well as flexibility when wet, not to mention it takes all sort of nasty punishment, UV, chlorine... Nylon on the other hand can get extremely stiff when wet. Some guys like cotton, but that doesn't last long if you want to ever use it in the pool...
Jaybird
|
|
|
|
Post by inkedhdrider on Jul 12, 2014 11:59:08 GMT -8
Hi folks, Thanks for all your kind help. It's difficult without any real direction to know what I'm doing as I have no in person access to anyone from the golden age of diving. I'm sure I'll feel like an idiot when I finally get an answer LOL. As requested here are pics of what I've got. As you folks can see it's just missing the arm straps. It has a belt. I was thinking about buying this and running it through the slots: www.piranhadivemfg.com/item/5-foot-long-2-Inch-Nylon-Weight-Belt-w-Stainless-Steel-Buckle-Complete-2601As it seems like that'd basically accomplish the same setup as this newer tank backpack: Any thoughts on that idea? Thanks again |
|
|
|
Post by SeaRat on Jul 12, 2014 12:55:52 GMT -8
Lots of thoughts. This is a standard U.S. Divers Company backpack, which originally came with 2 inch wide soft nylon webbing. There should be two stainless or plastic quick release buckles, one for the waist strap and one for the left shoulder. The nylon webbing was in two lengths, one for the left side bottom of the shoulder strap (under the quick release buckle), which went through the slots in a manner which held them without slipping (I usually use three passes through the slots, or double over the webbing so that it knots behind to keep it from slipping through. I'll describe it further later. The longer strap starts with the quick release buckle on the left shoulder (which hooks into the shorter shoulder strap on the left side), passes through the left top slot, is doubled over so it cannot slip, then passes through the right slot. It forms the shoulder strap by then connecting tot he outside slot for the waist strap on the inside, and either being doubled over or put through the inside slot and run around the hand hold hole to the outside slot to go back through it a second time. Either method secures the strap so it cannot slip. The strap then continues out to form the right side of the waist strap. Most vintage divers tried to put the waist quick release buckle in the opposite direction as the weight belt buckle, and which was which was an individual diver's choice. That way, the dominant hand would first find the weight belt buckle for release.
My harnesses are set up differently than just about anyone else, as I have a unique connector (a hip connector) to my Para-Sea BC (which no one else in the world has). However, I'll try to find a conventionally laced backpack for photos that I may have laying around.
John
|
|
|
|
Post by regulator68bj on Jul 12, 2014 14:20:35 GMT -8
Welcome inkedhdrider, att pix might help in solving the webbing threading problem as a rule 2inch wide webbing is the norm.
  
john |
|
|
|
Post by scubadiverbob on Jul 12, 2014 14:44:02 GMT -8
I thought you was talking about a harness and not a backpack. If I were you, I would contact Don and see if he still has the Healthways backpack. He is asking a very, very, reasonable price (like giving it away) ... vintagescuba.proboards.com/thread/3425/backpacks-4-sales1189.photobucket.com/user/dfassbendersr/media/Packs/3_zpsaa6aa8cf.jpg.html?sort=3&o=3Basically, it is all set up and has quick release tank strap (which makes it way easier for changing tanks). The steel 72 you have will fit it nicely. You will need a weight belt; so, the one you bought will work for that. I prefer one of the weight belt buckles that are spring loaded though. You can pick one up at a dive store. Makes it when you go down, and your wetsuit gets smaller, you usually don't have to re-adjust your weight belt. Save the one you got with the belt for a spare .... spare stuff is always good to have around. Hope this helps you! |
|
|
|
Post by inkedhdrider on Jul 12, 2014 14:46:27 GMT -8
|
|
|
|
Post by nikeajax on Jul 12, 2014 15:39:49 GMT -8
|
|
|
|
Post by SeaRat on Jul 12, 2014 16:28:27 GMT -8
While this is one of the versions of the U.S. Divers Company backpack, I have one with regular weight belt quick releases that is as I described above. I'll see about photos a bit later. Using the link provided by Jaybird above, this is the type of strapping the U.S. Divers Company used: www.strapworks.com/High_Tenacity_Polypropylene_p/htp2.htmBut you can get equivalent webbing at an REI store too. John PS, Welcome here; as you can see we have quite a nice group to discuss things like this with. |
|
|
|
Post by scubadiverbob on Jul 12, 2014 17:47:49 GMT -8
Thanks John!
I didn't know about where to get the straps! Dive stores charge a little bit more (especially for weight belts. I'm saving that on my computer!
Robert
|
|
|
|
Post by duckbill on Jul 12, 2014 19:44:46 GMT -8
There are several ways to route the strap through those holes. Some like to be able to cinch the shoulder straps down by pulling the belt ends. Many, like I, DON'T like the shoulder straps slipping every time we try to put it on. Here is how I route mine:  Two things to keep in mind.... 1) Be sure to twist the shoulder straps so they curve around your sides smoothly. 2) You'd be very wise to figure out some type of quick release for at least one of the shoulder straps. Your local saddlery or shoe repair may be able to install two heavy-duty nickel plated brass snaps for you. The quick release(s) should be located at the chest once the straps are installed on the back pack. |
|
|
|
Post by scubadiverbob on Jul 12, 2014 22:15:28 GMT -8
Just curious .... are you close to Erie, PA? I lived there for three years. Never did any ice diving; so, if you get a chance to ... take photos to share! This is my dive buddy from Panama. If you can get in touch with him. He teaches rebreathers and has dove most of the wrecks in the Great Lakes .... www.facebook.com/scubadiver1961?fref=ts If you use facebook, send him a message ... Robert |
|
|
|
Post by SeaRat on Jul 12, 2014 22:16:32 GMT -8
I like Duckbill's method, but it has one more loop than mine. I do not like the snap idea, as I have had bad luck with snaps (see my last dive, "Special Problems and Solutions"). I do have a backpack with the weight belt buckles, and they can work well. Here is how I loop mine.  John |
|
