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Post by noneedforaname on Aug 22, 2014 17:32:28 GMT -8
I seem to have an over abundance of the scuba pro k valves (dcar type kinda with the gauge on back but no reserve)
All of them except one leak from the gauge spot, and i was wondering if it took a standard rubber o ring ?
And if not would there be anything wrong with just threading and plugging the gauge assembly off?
I don't care for the gauge or the valves I just want two valves the same height for a cheater bar.
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Post by scubadiverbob on Aug 23, 2014 4:44:20 GMT -8
What you mentioned is how we did them at Chico Dive Center. We would tap threads into the small hole on the bottom of the valves, next to the brass tube, and put a small bolt (or hex nut) in them. Never had any leak after that. I don't really think the gauge part was made to be repaired. The gauge didn't replace the need for a reserve, all it did was let you know you had a full tank at the start of a dive. Unless the gauge is plugged where it doesn't work, I wouldn't use the valve on a steel tank. It wouldn't be good if it were to leak and drain the tank!
Most of them came with the burst disk, where the nut had the single hole. You will have to change the burst disk nut to the modern one with three holes, or dive shops won't fill your tanks.
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Post by noneedforaname on Aug 23, 2014 10:08:20 GMT -8
Thank you for the response.
I will have to look at what they used as burst disks I did not know about that.
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Post by nikeajax on Aug 23, 2014 10:26:23 GMT -8
Have you tried the "Banzai Charge" yet: tearing it down and just seeing how it works? Seems like you don't have much to loose with just one of them... anyway, that's what I'd do!
Jaybird
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Post by noneedforaname on Aug 23, 2014 11:21:11 GMT -8
Yes I did and to me it looks like a simple rubber o ring would fix it , but I was talking to Somone else and they said it may have to be a differnt type of o ring then the one I was planning on replacing it with. he couldn't tell as the o ring was too far gone .
I kinda prefer just plugging it anywase a little more work but to me seems safer eliminating the leek all together rather then just messing with o rings and always wondering
Just wasn't sure if threading it would weaken valve too much or if there was something else I might have been missing before I got around to possibly damaging the valve beyond repair
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Post by vintagefrank on Aug 23, 2014 14:04:38 GMT -8
Give me your email and I can send you the exploded view incl. parts numbers for this valve.
regards frank
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Post by noneedforaname on Aug 25, 2014 20:29:07 GMT -8
Thank you , but I found it online already
I'm going to plug it off. I don't really use it to check my tanks as I have a tank checker. to me it just seems like one more thing that can fail later on if I did fix it
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Post by cnotthoff on Aug 26, 2014 8:58:40 GMT -8
Noneed,
That stem is sealed with a standard o-ring. If memory serves me, it's a 005 or 006. The sintered filter is retained by star clip. If you disassemble, make note of the order of the parts. You'll find a spring, a brass washer, and the o-ring. Unless the valve is severely corroded, a new o-ring should seal that stem once everything is clean.
Those valves were designed to be used in 2250 psi steel tanks. The stem gauge (F - 1/2 - E) won't give accurate readings for other pressure tanks.
Good Dives,
Charlie
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Post by noneedforaname on Aug 27, 2014 15:42:58 GMT -8
Thank you so much , That is the answer I was hopeing for!
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