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Post by nikeajax on Oct 5, 2016 10:32:16 GMT -8
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Post by vance on Oct 5, 2016 11:07:36 GMT -8
As I don't have a calipers of my own, I'll have to borrow a friend's... You are welcome my old one BTW and you may be able to refinish the seating area. Here's my method for the HW's: BTW you just lock a drill in a vice and then the plunger holder-onner-thing in the drill, then with that improvised polishing tool you carefully hold it to the tip of the plunger. BTW Healthways called it a plunger: the seat as I'm sure Phil you are aware from working on carburetors is where the plunger or needle valve comes to a rest, seating... I'm quite confused as to why most people/instructions insist on calling the plunger a seat JB Thanks! I might take you up on it. I think Charlie might be the source for a similar spring!
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Post by vance on Oct 5, 2016 11:20:01 GMT -8
I have never seen a DivAir in person, and so these posts are very interesting to me. I am curious as to whether the actual "seat" is independent, or machined into the body of the DivAir? I like using the word, "plunger" for the nylon dohicky (a very old word my dad used to use to explain things he had no name for). John I wasn't able to get the hp body out for a closer look down the hole. The seat appears to be machined into the body, but the orifice seems to be a small part pressed into the body. It's pretty small in diameter (IF it's actually a separate part.) There's a small circle drawn on the end of the hp body in the diagram that looks like what I'm talking about. Of course, I'm looking at it from the other side. I think JB's illustration of the needle and actuator is accurate from what I can see. You can't really see it in the diagram, unless you know what you're looking for. (The fact that they drew the plunger upside down and inserting backwards doesn't give me a lot of faith in the drawing!) I got my screens today, and they look perfect. Now to find a spring!
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Post by nikeajax on Oct 5, 2016 11:57:44 GMT -8
Phil, if you decide to use a HW plunger, and get one from Charlie, put the new plunger in the Scuba Deluxe, and the older one in the Divair...
My reasoning is that if what's in the Deluxe is old it has been scored/cut from going up and down and continuously, a new plunger will last longer: conversely, the old plunger will have a different contact/seating area for he Diviar...
JB
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Post by tomcatpc on Oct 5, 2016 15:47:48 GMT -8
John...you have been diving before I was born (last two weeks of 1970) and you have never seen a Divair in real life? How "rare" are Divair regs?!?
I can't recall if there was one lurking on display at a couple dive oriented museums I visited?
I'm still in shock I found a US Divers "Aqua-matic" at a mid-west antique shop, but think they are more popular? Way off topic I know. Mark
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Post by vance on Oct 5, 2016 15:51:34 GMT -8
I bought a new plunger for my deluxe, so I have an old spare. I don't really want to do the adapter sleeve as I'd prefer to make it work with stock parts. Also, I don't have a mini lathe. Yet. That being said, maybe my parts ain't stock!
I got the repair plastic today, and will try to repair the threads on my bad HP mouthpiece in the AM. I am going to try to color the repair putty beige with some acrylic paint (the repair kit says this is kew.) I'll mix a small batch and add the acrylic to see if I can come close to the original color, get an idea about the working time, and when/how it would be optimal to apply. I'll play with it and let it set, then I'll mix the for-reals batch. Or keep experimenting in case of mfu. My plan is to follow JB's epoxy method, but with this stuff, instead. If I'm successful, I'll post some pictures. If not, I'll just hang my head in shame, and you'll wonder why you never heard about the results....
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Post by SeaRat on Oct 5, 2016 16:53:27 GMT -8
Phil,
One thought I have is to put some silicone grease on the aluminum ring's threads, and maybe, just maybe, it will adhere to the plastic and not the aluminum threads on the ring, thus restoring the plastic's threads without a permanently adhering to the aluminum. I've successfully done that with Shoe-Goo, when I made a new home-made diaphragm for my AMF Voit Trieste II regulator. The Shoe-Goo adhered to the diaphragm without adhering to the chrome-plated brass of my Trieste II body.
John
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Post by vance on Oct 5, 2016 17:08:48 GMT -8
Yes, that's the idea. I'll smear some silicone grease on the ring, put a ribbon of plastic goo on the threads, and twiddle the ring a bit as the goo sets. If it needs more, repeat. Hopefully, I won't totally screw the pooch! That'd be a shame. I want to reclaim these old things, not mess them up! If this method works, those who have the bad threads can get their HPs back into use! If it doesn't, then....cr*p.
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Post by nikeajax on Oct 5, 2016 19:08:27 GMT -8
John and Phil, I know this works! If I haven't mentioned it already, give the ring a good twisting back and forth every wanst'n a while... After you get it OFT (off) you can use an exacto to go in a clean things up... JB
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Post by vance on Oct 5, 2016 19:17:28 GMT -8
Will do. I'll let you know how it comes out.
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Post by vance on Oct 6, 2016 8:34:10 GMT -8
Phil, does this help? JB I've been pondering this needle/actuator shape. Another 3AM rumination. Here's what I think: The actuator looks much like JBs graphic. It rides in a bore which reduces down to the orifice. The needle extends through the orifice and touches the nylon plunger. When the primary lever presses the actuator into the bore/orifice, the needle lifts the nylon plunger off the seat and allows hp air to flow to the orifice. Air has to be able to pass the needle as it sticks through the orifice (lifting the plunger), so there has to be a taper or a step in the needle as JB shows. However, it would have to be narrower at the base of the square section, not at the end of the needle. Air then can pass the square actuator and enter the intake side of the "can". If the step or taper was as shown in the graphic, it would serve to close the orifice, not open it. I am not disparaging JBs excellent graphic. (How did he do it??) It was very helpful to me when I didn't understand how to get my primary lever out. Thanks again JB! Neither of us has actually seen the actuator/needle or the underside of the hp body due to being unable to crack the hp body loose from the plastic "can". (Crack being the operative word, seeing as how that's undoubtedly what would happen to the plastic reg body.) The diagram isn't much help with it, either.
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Post by nikeajax on Oct 6, 2016 9:15:15 GMT -8
If the step or taper was as shown in the graphic, it would serve to close the orifice, not open it. Dude, you can't say that about me, I call you out right now, after school behind the bleachers... Phil, if yer sayin' what I think yer sayin'... the lifty-uppy-part (oh those overly technical terms!) shaft of the actuator/pushrod is backwards/upside down in my image? Yeah, I was thinking about that too, sigh... GRRRR! I'd be more than willing to pull that sucker apart to get an image, but... we gots da same prollem So do you think the end looks more like the blunt end of a finishing nail? Please advise, I will create a new graphic... JB
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Post by vance on Oct 6, 2016 10:18:37 GMT -8
Yes, that's exactly what I'm saying. The needle might have a step or it might just be a taper. The orifice is a tiny hole. How the needle allows enough air through while sticking through the orifice is kind of amazing....
You know, the diagram is confusing in that it shows the end of the hp body as flat with a small circle drawn in the middle. Is that the bore for the lifty part, or is it the orifice? What the diagram doesn't clearly show is the metal part that you can see under the plastic turret in the above picture, unless what you see is the end of the hp body. Which it must be....
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Post by vance on Oct 6, 2016 10:27:00 GMT -8
I did the thread repair on my Hope Page mouthpiece. It works! What an improvement. I have a nice tight fit now. On the exhaust side. The intake side needs the treatment now. It took two coats. I didn't bother trying to color the stuff, since it's clear-ish and really doesn't show. I'm not convinced the plastic repair stuff I bought works any better than epoxy would. I'm going to repair the other side with epoxy and see. One problem with the plastic repair stuff is, it really stinks! I'll have to let the mp off-gas for a month before using it!
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Post by nikeajax on Oct 6, 2016 11:30:12 GMT -8
OK, I had my chief engineer take a look...
We decided that it's just a straight shaft: Sorry, I was having a dyslexic moment: my brain does/sees things backward at times--SIGH! (Mark, I'm sure you know nothing about this ever happening to you Mark and I are both dyslexic...) I hope this image will help someone in the future... JB
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