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Post by vance on Jan 1, 2019 18:23:17 GMT -8
So, I'm going all over the place with making adapters and 2nd stage bodies and all. I want to make a double LP take-off for the older V1-2 and Snark 3s. Problem is, there's very little clearance on the early ones for the adapter to fit in the ORPV drilling. It's very close to the body. The Silvers have more room, and it's much easier to make an adapter that doesn't extend upward over the can (I've already accomplished this). I feel like the sticking up Tee is a snag hazard, and it just looks goofy. Some pics follow of both kinds mounted on a Silver. The first is the extended, over the top style. The second shows a cut down adapter that gets the Tee down toward the middle of the can:
I really want to get the Tee down lower on the early ones, like or lower than the one on the Silver. My idea is for the Tee to fit directly into the ORPV bore with no adapter. The problem is the threads on the Snark body are metric. So I have to make an o-ring sealed Tee with the metric threads and 3/8 x 24 unf for the peripherals. I have already ruined about 4 inches of delrin stock in the attempt. No worries, though. I'm getting there!
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Post by technidiver on Jan 1, 2019 18:39:25 GMT -8
Phil, excellent idea to put it through the OPRV. The Tee looks a bit goofy and is awfully high, although I'm sure it works well.
When you manage to make an adapter, I would be interested in one as I would like to fix up a Snark 3 this year.
TD
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Post by Deleted on Jan 1, 2019 20:01:01 GMT -8
Vance, If you can enlarge my avitar enough for a clear photo, you will see my old hookah port assembly with 3 way splitter...it stuck out like your Nemrod and I dove thru a ship wreck never hanging up or banging it.......it isn't as critical as you would believe.
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Post by herman on Jan 2, 2019 3:58:44 GMT -8
How about taking this in a slightly different direction? Instead of a threaded adapter, why not remove the threaded portion of an existing T and making a new one with metric threads? Any of the ones that swivel have serviceable internal orings and can be taken apart.
Start with hex stock, turn, bore and thread as necessary. You could make the body too but I would start with the screw portion, it's the most complicated.
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Post by vance on Jan 2, 2019 10:37:31 GMT -8
That will work on the Silvers with some Tees due to the extra clearance they built in. Some will need to be shaved.
The older models have very little space between the hole and the can, so an offset adapter needs to be made so a Tee can fit. In fact, the hex stock shown will not clear the can on the old ones. A 1/2" rod needs to be turned down slightly to clear.
I am considering a simple offset that a Tee will screw into. But, think I should just make an offset block with 2 ports in it, and eliminate the extra Tee. Both options require making the o-ring sealed bolt.
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Post by herman on Jan 2, 2019 10:52:16 GMT -8
Another option is to reproduce the LP seat cover with the LP port in it. You could turn threads on inch(ish) hex stock then put 3/8 ports round the hex. Think something similar to a Phoenix. Nemrod had an option like this with just one port...or maybe just reproduce the cover with a 3/8 port and install a tee in it.
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Post by vance on Jan 2, 2019 11:28:29 GMT -8
Yes, that's a good option. I got an extra LP plug a while back to bore out and thread for a tee, but there isn't even enough meat on the stock plug for a straight through port.
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Post by vance on Jan 2, 2019 16:59:21 GMT -8
I made a couple of practice LP plug adapters out of delrin. My brass connection is on vacation until the 6th, and I'm out of 3/4" rod, so I thought I'd ruin plastic instead.... The LP plug adapter is the way to go. The OPRV port is ok but awkward. I'll post pics when I get a good one done. It's a simple plug with an LP spring seat, so a port drilled through the end is easy and direct. You just have to make a new plug.
Actually, my failed attempts often provide material for smaller diameter projects! So, unless I ruin the second attempt, savings occurs! I guess there's even potential for a third run, depending on what I'm making. Luckily, some of the stuff I want to make is tiny.
Machine work takes amazing skillz. (I don't have them, yet, and I'm in awe of those who do...) It takes planning and preparation. You have to think about the process, because you always need to have a stable piece to grip with the chuck. Thinking the process through is required! And, you need to be proficient at jig and tool making.
I need a bench mill now. My wife will be thrilled when I announce this....
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Post by SeaRat on Jan 2, 2019 17:01:17 GMT -8
Have you thought about the Snark IV conversion? It's available from vintage guys in Turkey. John
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Post by vance on Jan 2, 2019 18:19:52 GMT -8
Is it? I'd like to see one of those.
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Post by vance on Jan 3, 2019 16:06:27 GMT -8
I'm out of brass and can't get any for a few days, so I made a prototype from aluminum and delrin. Works great! This is definitely the way to go. Don't worry, I did have an OPRV in the system, even though the OPRV port still has an adapter in it! It's on my gauge. I need to leave a hex head or a flange for the 3-way to sit on! It just slips off the bolt and over the adapter this way.
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Post by technidiver on Jan 3, 2019 16:18:59 GMT -8
I'm out of brass and can't get any for a few days, so I made a prototype from aluminum and delrin. Works great! This is definitely the way to go. Don't worry, I did have an OPRV in the system, even though the OPRV port still has an adapter in it! It's on my gauge. I need to leave a hex head or a flange for the 3-way to sit on! It just slips off the bolt and over the adapter this way. Phil, is this in 3/8? Great work! TD
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Post by nikeajax on Jan 3, 2019 16:35:27 GMT -8
Hey Phil, you know that the last guy that tried that wiped out an entire town in southern California, right? It was near San Diego: what, you didn't know that? JB
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Post by vance on Jan 3, 2019 17:12:34 GMT -8
JB, Yeh, but that wasn't me! But so what? What's your point? I shouldn't make it happen again? Sheesh. Don't limit me!
TD, Yes, it's a 3/8" unf thread for the hose/3-way, and M18x1 for the body. I could go with 7/16" but all my hoses and tees are 3/8". The next one will be 1 piece brass. I might get it chromed, but you'd need to run 20 pcs to make it worthwhile. I can't even think about making 20.... Mebbe not even two. These suckas take hella time to turn. Besides, there's only about 4 people in the world who'd want one! My guess is that a chromed piece would cost about $75, if there were a bunch to get chromed.
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Post by vance on Jan 3, 2019 17:36:20 GMT -8
I want to reiterate that the Snark III can be relatively easily converted to utilize LP peripherals, but YOU MUST HAVE A MEANS OF MITIGATING runaway IP WHEN it happens. And, it is likely to happen! The Snark has an overpressure relief valve in it because it has a tilt valve 2nd stage. This is an upstream valve that gets closed tighter with higher pressure, rather than looser like a downstream 2nd. If/WHEN the high pressure side fails, the OPRV allows the excess pressure to vent, rather than blow up a hose or some other part. If you convert your Snark III for LP peripherals and eliminate the OPRV, you MUST add a DOWNSTREAM 2nd stage. I can see someone wanting to maintain the Snark heritage and installing a Snark II, Ibiza, etc., tilt valve 2nd stage into an adapter fitted into the OPRV port. NOOOO!
I don't know what happens to the Snark internals if the IP becomes over-pressured to, say 3000 psig. Maybe nothing will explode, but you aren't getting the reg off the cylinder, unless you can bleed pressure off the reg. Doing so can't be safe, at least with anything I can think of.
OK?
Please let me know if anything I've stated here is not accurate. I think this mod is a good one, but I don't want anyone hurt! That's why the LP plug adapter is better, because the OPRV stays in place.
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