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Post by antique diver on Dec 28, 2023 7:00:46 GMT -8
A word of caution: "Pool acid" is hydrochloric (Muriatic) acid, and will strip the flash of chrome in a heartbeat. I would opt for acetic or heat, personally. I gave up the Hydrochloric before 1980. Due to the dangers to person and items when using Hydrochloric and high concentrations of Acetic acid (either of which can quickly cause permanent eye damage) my preference is the household use product, CLR. You still should be using eye protection, but danger to your skin is hardly an issue. Works great in ultrasonic cleaners, and good in still solution if you don't have one. I have tested 24+ hour submersions of chromed regulator parts in 50/50 CLR/Water solutions, and found no damage. But I don't recommend abusing your parts to that extent, especially if your chrome is already compromised. There are several other good choices, but CLR is readily available and reasonably priced. I'm interested to hear of other products being used. ??
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Post by duckbill on Dec 28, 2023 8:49:23 GMT -8
muriatic acid (which is concentrated hydrochloric acid). John Actually, muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid with impurities, and is the milder, less acidic of the two. Of course, cautions apply regardless. Thanks.
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Post by SeaRat on Dec 28, 2023 9:59:28 GMT -8
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Post by nikeajax on Dec 28, 2023 12:12:09 GMT -8
John, that second quote helped a lot--thanks! JB
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Post by vance on Dec 30, 2023 8:24:22 GMT -8
A word of caution: "Pool acid" is hydrochloric (Muriatic) acid, and will strip the flash of chrome in a heartbeat. I would opt for acetic or heat, personally. Hey Terry! Good to hear from you. Where you been?
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Post by nikeajax on Dec 30, 2023 9:25:22 GMT -8
Jacob, something else you can try is: put it in your freezer over night. While you're waiting, set up a vice so you can get it there very quickly and be able to lock it down. Use a long socket for a heat-sink over the nut. With a torch, run the tip around the side of the valve trying not to touch the socket. When you think it's warm enough, remove the socket and use a six-sided wrench: hopefully the socket left it cool enough so that you only get the valve to expand JB
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Post by duckbill on Dec 30, 2023 17:47:02 GMT -8
Hey Terry! Good to hear from you. Where you been? I check in to the general discussion everyday to keep abreast of what's going on, but I've been pretty busy and haven't been actively diving for a couple years. Been dealing with family stuff. Still kicking, though. Thanks for asking.
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Post by Tusker on Jan 4, 2024 12:53:21 GMT -8
Well, the boiling water and CLR in the ultrasonic have not loosened things up. I don't have a vice, drill press, or torch currently so I'm reevaluating my options.
On further study, this manifold is really about a decade late for my project. I can approximate the look of an early J2 manifold by swapping the knob of this manifold for the screw type used on the earlier ones. Seeing as it's all I have, I'll likely do that — at least for the dive — before swapping it back.
Jacob
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Post by herman on Jan 4, 2024 18:29:07 GMT -8
I have several double manifolds and several sets double bands. Give me a call if you may can use them.....and some big tools in the shop if they would help.
Just looked at a manifold at my desk, looks like the one in your first photo except it's for 3/4 /oring tanks. Yours if it will work for you....needs rebuilding
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