|
|
Post by OystrPir8 on Jan 1, 2007 21:52:28 GMT -8
Can anyone explain to me in VERY SIMPLE & THOROUGH TERMS what is involved in removing the short yoke and replacing it with the long yoke on my DA Aqua Master?
I have never opened the can up nor do I have the tools or the experience to do so.
Thanks,
Robb
|
|
|
|
Post by nemrod on Jan 1, 2007 22:37:13 GMT -8
You do not open the can. On the DA or RAM the first stage nozzle assembly holds the yoke. Generally, one can hold the cans between their thighs and place a large Ford wrench or large Cresent with a layer of vinyl tape on the jaws onto the hex shaped upper portion of the nozzle. Screw it out, remove short yoke and set in place long yoke with new nylon/phenolic gasket for first stage/body interface. The easiest thing to do if you have no tools is to send it to vdh or vss. It is very easy actually. Sooner or later you will need to know this stuff but now does not have to be the time.
James
|
|
|
|
Post by SeaRat on Jan 1, 2007 23:33:20 GMT -8
One of the concerns when opting to remove the old yolk, and replace it with the longer one, is that in taking off the nozzle, the pin is still inside the regulator pointed at the seat. If you don't go inside and remove the adjusting nut, the spring retainer, the HP diaphragm and finally the pin support and pin, you stand a chance of damaging the seat when the nozzle is replaced. This is because the alignment of that pin cannot be assurred to hit the seat in the center. It is much better to remove the entire "innards" of the first stage if you replace the yolk and nozzle (the nozzle doesn't have to be disassembled though). Also, there is a nozzle gasket (#14' 1000-13) which probably needs to be replaced if the nozzle is removed (depending upon the age, and state of the gasket). Linda put the pages of the U.S. Navy Diving Manual that has to do with the servicing of the DA Aquamaster, and the twin valves used by the Navy, here for us to download: vintagescuba.proboards2.com/index.cgi?board=instruction&action=display&n=1&thread=1143You will note that the U.S. Navy Maintenance procedure for the DA Aquamaster has the nozzle being placed into the regulator body first, and then the pin is inserted into the hole from the other direction. This is so that the HP Seat Assembly is not damaged during this procedure. If you put the nozzle into the regulator with the pin already installed, it is possible to damage the seat. There are two special tools (shown in the manual too) that are used to help with this proceduer so that the top box is not used as a lever to try tightening the nozzle, which is not what the top box is designed to do (it could be bent). James' advice, about sending it to Dan at VSS is probably the best way to handle this situation, or inquire at the LDS to see whether they may have those tools stowed away somewhere (mine does, and I had to tell them what they were for). John |
|
|
|
Post by duckbill on Jan 1, 2007 23:36:20 GMT -8
You WILL need to open the cans to readjust the IP. Even using the original phenolic gasket you will more than likely end up with a different IP. With a new gasket, all bets are pretty much off.
Plus, be very sure you don't drop the pin and lose it while the nozzle is off.
I, too, would recommend sending it to Dan.
|
|
|
|
Post by Broxton Carol on Jan 2, 2007 6:47:35 GMT -8
Grasp your regulator by the inhalation horn, and apply a crescent wrench to the nozzle, which is the threaded piece that holds the yoke on. Rest firmly between your knees, It will come off easy, or with a stout blow to the wrench. Then hold your reg upside down, and unscrew the nozzle. Carefully set the reg aside with the yoke side DOWN. Slip off the old yoke, and put the new long yoke over your nozzle, and still having in the upside down position, check that the gasket is positioned, and the pin is in it ( it sometimes sticks to the pad inside the reg) in that case, pull it loose, and put it back pointed end down into the nozzle, and screw the nozzle UP INTO your regulator. That way the pin wont fall out. You only need to tighten it moderately. Dont abuse it. Forget messing with the mid range pressure, as nothing has changed. Your on your way now. Not a big deal was it?  |
|
|
|
Post by nemrod on Jan 2, 2007 9:56:51 GMT -8
I usually assemble the entire unit on the bench and then install it from the yoke side into the body. I hold the nozzle pin and button up and screw the body gently down on to it.  While this is a Phoenix nozzle which uses a Conshelf HP screw on yoke the sequence of parts is the same. Well, you might also notice the longer pin and the replaceable HP volcano orifice. James |
|
|
|
Post by Broxton Carol on Jan 2, 2007 10:06:46 GMT -8
All you are doing is unscrewing the nozzle, taking off the old short yoke, and putting on the long one, and tightening it back in place. Thats it , thats all. Remember the disease "tinkeritis" If its working, leave it alone. You can change it in 2 minutes. THATS TWO MINUTES. Your not screwing with a phoenix nozzle, your taking out one threaded nozzle. Your NOT disassembling it, your just unscrewing it, and changing the yoke. If its too much for you, send it to me, and Ill do it for free ;D
|
|
|
|
Post by nemrod on Jan 2, 2007 10:16:35 GMT -8
I only showed the Phoenix nozzle assembly so all the parts were visible and of course a few Phoenix extras--lol--I don't have a pic of standard nozzle. The standard nozzle has a slip on yoke instead of the screw on and the hex nut shaped area is the shoulder that keeps it from slipping off. When you unscrew the assembly from the body you will not see all those little parts except for the pin and the brass colored push button that rests agaisnt the HP diaphram.
Yeah, send it to Chuck, Free, that is an awfully good offer from the guy who may have rebuilt more of these than just about anybody.
James
|
|
|
|
Post by OystrPir8 on Jan 2, 2007 10:54:33 GMT -8
You guys are HEROES!!!
I went with chuck's description as it seemed the simplest and wise as a first choice - AND IT WORKED!! I am wearing my new setup as I type this. Tank, DAAM, with octo, brass banjo, long yoke and new horse collar thanks to all you guys. AND IT ALL WORKS!! I CAN DIVE VINTAGE NOW!
My favorite part about thread is that the crowd who responded were ALL the ones who have been such a help from the beginning. Thanks everybody! Hope we can dive together in this new year!
HAPPY 2007!
Robb
|
|
|
|
Post by Broxton Carol on Jan 2, 2007 11:45:02 GMT -8
Glad to see your "vintage" now! Yes everyone here is ready to help. This site is the place to go for help, by people who really care about vintage diving with all the negatives left out! With VSS every day is a super day! ;D
|
|
|
|
Post by duckbill on Jan 2, 2007 22:37:54 GMT -8
Robb,
I'm glad you got the yoke on alright. I mentioned the IP because I thought screwing the nozzle in/out would alter the IP by a fair amount. I guess I was wrong. However, if your regulator was adjusted to the IP limit, changing anything could raise the IP slightly (assuming you reused the same gasket) enough to cause a slight 2nd stage leak. If it isn't leaking after the change, you're good to go.
The only other thing I might add is to put your reg on a cylinder, turn the valve on and submerge the reg and valve under water to check to make sure that no air is leaking from the threads between the nozzle and body. If it is, you should tighten the nozzle until it stops. Soapy water may work to detect a leak, but I prefer dunking.
I think meeting and diving together is definitely on the agenda for 2007. Let me recover from this trip and we can start making plans.
|
|
|
|
Post by nemrod on Jan 3, 2007 1:17:52 GMT -8
Duckbill beat me to it about doing a bubble check. Sometimes you can resuse the gasket and sometimes not. Also, it certainly can effect the IP, removing and replacing the nozzle, but there is a fair spread of IP where they will perform adequately so most of the time you will be OK.
James
|
|
|
|
Post by SeaRat on Jan 3, 2007 6:52:05 GMT -8
Well, you guys taught me a couple of new tricks on this thread. I looked at the diagrams again, and came to a better understanding; I had thought that there was another hole that the pin needed to go through. But the pin is simply on the other side of the nozzle. My mistake. Thanks for the advise, as I can use this with mine too. Broxton Chuck and Nemrod really know their stuff. You can teach an ol' dog new tricks, and this guy just learned something. That says a lot about these forums. Now, I think I'll get back into my Trieste II...
John
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 3, 2007 7:33:13 GMT -8
Oysterpir8 said: I am wearing my new setup as I type this. Tank, DAAM, with octo, brass banjo, long yoke and new horse collar thanks to all you guys. AND IT ALL WORKS!! I CAN DIVE VINTAGE NOW!
So, are you walking around in your house with all this on?.....send us a photo.......I'll match it with mine..........
Mossback
|
|
|
|
Post by OystrPir8 on Jan 3, 2007 9:09:44 GMT -8
LOL - yes I was. I put it all together and put it on to try it out and was so excited I wanted to tell you guys right away.
|
|
