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Post by duckbill on Apr 14, 2007 14:58:16 GMT -8
I'm wondering what has successfully been used for gluing ID plates to the smooth chrome of USD cans.
I'd like something that sets hard and sticks like bejeebers, yet has some flexibility.
Epoxy?
?
?
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Post by kgehring on Apr 14, 2007 15:03:07 GMT -8
3M has some very sticky double sided tape. It works well.
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Post by swimjim on Apr 14, 2007 16:12:46 GMT -8
I used a dab of aquaseal. The plate is still there after six dives and seems to be doing fine.
Jim
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Post by SeaRat on Apr 14, 2007 17:26:51 GMT -8
I have stuck the stainless steel plate of my diaphragm to my home-made diaphragm for the Trieste II with clear ShoeGoo. You have to let it set for a few days, but it seems to work pretty well, and is flexible.
John
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Post by nemrod on Apr 14, 2007 18:55:45 GMT -8
3M high bond tape available at many auto stores. Nemrod
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Post by duckbill on Apr 15, 2007 0:31:53 GMT -8
Good suggestions, all. Thankyou.
So, is this 3-M tape a non-foam type tape and absolutely, 100% waterproof?
Has anyone tried epoxy, or can think of any reasons why it wouldn't be something to use?
Thanks again.
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Post by JES on Apr 15, 2007 4:27:48 GMT -8
Contact Jerry Moseman. Jerry owns Faux Label Works and he uses a super-thin doulble sided tape on his regulator labels. I probably have 20 dives on a regulator with one of his labels and it shows no signs of coming loose. I'm sure that he won't mind sharing what type of tape he uses. Faux Label Works |
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Post by kgehring on Apr 15, 2007 5:17:58 GMT -8
3M is a non foam tape. I have used it on 1 of my labels and have 10 dives on it and it is holding strong. It is probably what Jerry uses. I also have a label from him that is still stuck on well to the reg body.
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Post by nemrod on Apr 15, 2007 10:21:32 GMT -8
Do not use an adhesive like epoxy. The ID plate would then require heat and prying to remove.
ProSeal, a B type two part sealer could adhere it and could be split away with a thin plastic spatula for removal.
The 3M tape works fine--so far. I think it is what Jerry is using also.
I also did this for one regulator I rebuilt and sold. The original plate was great except it had a broken tab. I manufactured another plate of the same size and diemensions but slightly thinner stock and of stainless and made it with two NEW tabs. I then bonded the original label to the subplate using EA9309, an aerospace epoxy, when cured I set the assembly in place and bent the new tabs down.
James
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Post by duckbill on Apr 16, 2007 0:47:42 GMT -8
Well, yesterday I picked up some 3-M "Exterior Mounting Tape- Super Strong- weather resistant" tape (4011T), but then I saw your post, James, and had one of those "Why didn't I think of that?" moments! I think a backing plate would be a great way to go. I'm not sure how much galvanic reaction there might be between the brass ID plate and a stainless backing plate (depends on the type of SS), so I might go with brass stock- although the tabs wouldn't be as strong. The thickness of any plate, or this rather thick tape, might also be an issue for me, so I might be back to direct adhesive application. I have some decisions to make, and good information now on which to base them.
Thanks for the suggestions.
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