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Post by Bryan on Oct 29, 2003 19:17:34 GMT -8
Hey gang! I've been consulting with Dan on this issue but it's still giving me fits. I have my Navy DA 1st stage pressure set at 110 psi, it holds that pressure great, no leaks in the 1st stage according to the gauge and the soap bubble test. I had to remove the 2nd stage low pressure seat due to dry rot and cracking when I disassembled it. I have tried replacing it with a standard one from a regular Aqua-Master with no success....I've tried making one and even though I've had great success doing this in the past it does not seem to be working for me on this reg!!! Does anyone have a new 2nd stage seat for a DA for sale ? Or any suggestions what I might do to get it to seal and function correctly?? All information and advice are most appreciated!
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Post by Dennis on Oct 30, 2003 6:37:10 GMT -8
The description I have of a DA Navy says that LP seat is the same as in the earlier AquaLung. The seat is attached to the horseshoe demand lever and is not replaceable. If you have to change the LP seat you put in a new horseshoe. Unfortunately, new horseshoes are not readily available. Attached is a note a friend sent me explaining how he fixed his old AquaLung. It sounds like he had somewhat the same problem as you. He ended up taking the seat out of another regulator. It sounds like a key element of concern is of the "thickness" of the replacement seat. If it is too thick, clearance is decreased and performance diminishes. ***************************************** "I set that AquaLung again, and it still used a lot of vacuum to activate the mechanism. I reset the intermediate pressure and that stopped the free flow, but it wasn’t delivering enough air. I took out the nozzle assembly, and the amount of activation, in other words, the amount of distance between the pad, and the top of the nozzle was minimal, leaving little opening for the seat. I replaced it with the pad out of another regulator, which gave more clearance, and now it works swell!! 100% more air delivery than before. I’ll bet these early ones were a select fit, and were set up that way. Likely sometime over the years, something was changed and the performance went down. I set my other Broxton that way and it too, gives 100% more air."
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Post by Bryan on Oct 30, 2003 8:31:06 GMT -8
Dennis, you are 100 % on the money. It is the horseshoe demand type lever. Unfortuantely the original one was hard and split in 3 places and I could not salvage it all in one piece! I have tried to make a new seat out of 3 different types of nitile and neoprene rubber in hardness range from 50 to 75 durometer...Reg still leaks air like a screen door on a submarine! I may try a poured epoxy and let it skin over and then indent the material slightly with the nozzel tip to give it a good impression and try it from there? I have feelers out on lots of boards to try and locate a new or used horseshoe level that will work. Any other advice or suggestions would be most appreciated!! Thanks!
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Post by Captain on Oct 30, 2003 9:11:44 GMT -8
Just my 2 cents, but did you check if the seat is sitting flat on the nozzle. You may have to adjust the height of the 2 screws so that the seat is sitting flat on the nozzle and not at a slight angle. Also if this is the problem the horseshoe may be bent and not allowing the seat to sit flat on the nozzle.
Tom
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Post by Bryan on Oct 30, 2003 9:47:29 GMT -8
Tom, I did check the horseshoe and it is straight. The seat itself is actually on a type of self centering device and that is working freely. I adjusted the screws all the way down and then backed them off to the factory recommended settings and it flows like crazy!! I can push back on the lever and make it seat. It seems like the springs are too weak to close it....But, if the springs were stronger it would make it dang difficult to breathe! I believe the seat itself is still the problem. I will double check this again when I get home. Keep the suggestions comming!!
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Post by Dennis on Oct 30, 2003 12:50:15 GMT -8
Here are a few thoughts: 1. Is your IP gauge accurate? 2. The IP will go up as tank pressure drops. Are you working with a different tank pressure now as when you initially set the IP? Check the IP again. 3. Are the edges of the nozzle free of any nicks? 4. If you "cup" the seat, the regulator may not deliver air the way it should even if the LP seat does seal. 5. If you are able to produce a workable replacement seat, make a bunch of spares. You will probably be able to sell a few here at this web site.
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Post by Bryan on Oct 30, 2003 14:19:06 GMT -8
Good thoughts Dennis. I've checked the IP a couple of times thinking it got whacked! I have feelers out everywhere about a replacement seat for it. Hopefully I can come up with one. I have made them flat and cupped them slightly to fit the curve of the stem seat. I even went as far as heating the stem seat slightly and then holding it against the rubber seat to make a slight indentation!! I will post a couple of pictures of the dilema when I get home later. Perhaps that will help explain a little about what I'm doing right or wrong!
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Post by Dennis on Oct 31, 2003 5:56:39 GMT -8
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Post by Bryan on Oct 31, 2003 6:45:04 GMT -8
Thank You Dennis! Some good info over there!! I asked if they could fax me copy of that DA Navy info!! I don't have any and I sure would appreciate any info I can get on that regulator!! I got word from Ron over in Minnesota that he thinks he has a seat that will work on it! I have to say that this is the 1st one of these two hose monsters that has ever kicked my arse!!! Well, I should take that back, I just got a Dacor 2 hoser off of E-bay yestarday so we will see about that. If the seat from Ron does not solve the problem I'm sending it to Dan for his expert opinion!! I have 4 other Aqua-Masters on the bench waiting to be rebuilt and the old DA is slowing up the process!!
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Post by Dennis on Oct 31, 2003 8:53:30 GMT -8
I asked if they could fax me copy of that DA Navy info!! I don't have any and I sure would appreciate any info I can get on that regulator!!!! I have a 1960 copyright book "Basic Scuba" that describes the operation of the DA Navy. I can email you photos of the pages, but that will have to wait until Monday. I'm leaving on a dive trip this evening as soon as I get off work. There will be three of us all diving a wide assortment of double hoses in the Florida springs. Fun fun fun. Hope it works. If that was the C-3, it might be a piece of cake. I think that it has the same internals as the earlier R-2, except that they took out the top diaphragm and added a duckbill exhaust valve. I don't think that the the early Dacor regulators had ANY adjustments. Not for the the demand lever or for the intermediate pressure. The later R-4 has an IP adjustment bolt something like in an AquaLung. If the C-3 leaks, all you can do is change the seat. If it doesn't leak, there isn't much else to do except clean and lubricate it. They are pretty simple. But: Don't try to unscrew the nut that holds the yoke to the case. It is an "interference fit" and I don't think that it is supposed to be unscrewed. Also, if you are looking down on the nozzle from above, there is something that looks like a screw driver slot. Don't try to turn it with a screw driver. It is an air channel. There was an article about this in the issue before last of Historical Diver. I'll try to email you a photo of that also. Dan is the expert. The DA is putting you through your apprenticeship.
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Post by Bryan on Oct 31, 2003 10:00:35 GMT -8
The E-mail photos from the book would be most helpful! Any info that anyone comes up with on Navy DA's would be most appreciated! I've been working on regulators on and off since the 80's. I went to schools for SAS, (great reg) Watergill/AtPac (great reg but ugly as hell) Scubapro (remeber the Pilot!! and I even attended a USD seminar sponsored by San Diego Divers Supply. It's real easy to get one up and running and performing beautifully when you have drawers of new parts at your fingertips. Your real skills are tested when you have to fabricate the parts!!! Dennis, be safe, have a good time and thank you for your help! The Dacor is the C3-N that sold to me on E-bay last night. I don't really care for them so I will most likely just dissassemble and clean it, Get all the rust off of the hose clamps and re-paint those and put it back up for sale or look to trade it for some Aqua-Masters or Mistrals that need some work. Anyone wanting to do some trading, let me know!
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