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Post by crabbyjim on Dec 21, 2016 14:26:19 GMT -8
John,
I have the original pamphlet with my Scuba-Star (serial number 5876) and it confirms the information in your post. Since I don't have part 1611-77 in the box, it has either been lost or installed. As there are no marks on the regulator indicating any use, I assume that it has been lost. I'll post pictures if I can ever figure out how.
Crabby
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Post by SeaRat on Dec 21, 2016 23:05:25 GMT -8
Hi Crabby, That brochure would be very interesting. I happen to have both of those parts, the K-restrictor and the J-restrictor. I've been collecting Healthways for a very long time, and the K-restrictor was left over from a while back. In order to post photos, you have to use a photo hosting site, then post the link back to that site. Here's Limons Osis, a biologist for the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife, during underwater clam bed surveys in 1975 using his Scubair regulator.  We were surveying by dredging the 2 square foot area inside that circle he's carrying.  Here Limons is surfacing after dredging in one location. As you can see, this regulator was used in fairly robust conditions. Limons was holding onto the boat's ladder, and those waves around him were caused by tidal currents. John |
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Post by crabbyjim on Dec 22, 2016 8:51:41 GMT -8
I'll try to get my wife to help me with the pictures. I'll try to post the entire instruction book.
Crabby
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Post by nikeajax on Dec 29, 2016 11:06:58 GMT -8
I'll let the HW catalog speak for itself: JB  Please note that the Scuba Star still has the old style cover and Quick Klip! |
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Post by nikeajax on Dec 29, 2016 12:49:20 GMT -8
I decided to recreate an image in their catalog... JB  |
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Post by SeaRat on Dec 30, 2016 17:36:59 GMT -8
Okay, I just got back from my LDS, and came up with quite a haul. I looked through the "junk drawer" and found:
--A Healthways Scubair 300 first stage.
--A Healthways Scubair second stage (late model).
--a Dacor Viper (I think) first stage.
--A Dacor second stage.
--A MR-I2 II regulator.
I asked how much she wanted for it, and she said, "Make an offer." I said, "Thirty-five dollars," and she accepted. That was for all of these!
I'll got some photos a bit later.
John
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Post by vance on Dec 31, 2016 11:02:01 GMT -8
No, mine is not stepped away like that. My exhaust tee is flush against the bottom can. Odd that they'd use two. There must have been a problem at some point to go to the extreme of two mushrooms. Any idea why? I didn't take the rubber plug out on mine, afraid I'd tear it because of its stiffness. I need to get some silicone spay and condition it a bit before I try to remove it to inspect the mushroom. After several days of spraying silicone lube on the plug, I got brave and pulled the plug. Literally! It came out in one piece, and surprisingly, the half-century old exhaust mushroom is perfect. I looked it over carefully, shrugged my shoulders, and shoved the plug back in. The regulator is ready to boogie. |
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Post by nikeajax on Dec 31, 2016 13:10:13 GMT -8
Phil, those old neoprene diaphragms can be realllllly doggy! I would swear I saw some silicone ones in your box of gear that would work, but we didn't find them when we looked that second time. These small exhaust ports need all the help they can get: the exhalation resistance is greatly reduced by the newer material! One thing you should know though: they need to be shimmed:  otherwise the reg will breathe wet. I can give you some tubing I use to make the shims. The shim is held in by dynamic tension, it won't go anywhere, it will stay on the stem of the valve. JB |
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Post by SeaRat on Jan 2, 2017 16:40:51 GMT -8
I have been trying to recondition my Scubair, an original one, and am still having problems. I can get it together okay, but there is a leak of HP air somewhere, probably the O-ring, and I cannot get it stabilized. I'll work on photos soon.
John
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Post by nikeajax on Jan 2, 2017 18:02:01 GMT -8
 John, in case ya gotta resurface the cone on yer valve plunger... The diameter of the shaft in my image isn't right, but I think you get the idea... JB |
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Post by SeaRat on Jan 2, 2017 20:03:27 GMT -8
Okay, thanks Jaybird. I'll give that a try if a different O-ring doesn't do the trick. I still think it's the O-ring, but cannot be sure. The problem is that it is not just a small leak, this is a real gusher, so I think it's the O-ring. I did get the photos downloaded, and they are much the same as Jaybirds, but not quite as nicely laid out.  This shows the whole Scubair first stage parts.  Here is the high pressure side of the regulator, along with the two different restrictor orifices. The one in-line is the one which came with the regulator. The other one is one I got years ago off a different, probably double hose, regulator. Note the difference in size; the one with the larger hole is the J-restrictor (actually, no restriction). The smaller hole restrictor is the one that kicks in at about 500 psig over the ambient pressure (you can feel the regulator start to lag).  Something Jaybird did not show was the parts breakdown of the overpressure relief valve. You can see the main body, the threaded plug, the spring, and the seat holder. Also, there is a removable rubber seat, which can be reversed, so most of these overpressure relief valves can be re-used. Of course, there is an O-ring which goes on the outside, like any LP plug. When my ORV is screwed down all the way, it releases at about 160 psig. I'm hoping, with a new O-ring on the seat, that it will work, and I can unscrew the cap with an Allen wrench so that it releases just over the IP, which for a tilt valve should be around 90 psig (from memory). I'll then screw the ORV out until it leaks, then down 1/4 turn to turn it off (Fred Roberts' instructions). John |
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Post by nikeajax on Jan 2, 2017 21:53:22 GMT -8
John, the method I use when assembling a rare one like this, especially if I REALLY don't want to take apart again is to put the HP assembly together. Then I'll add air pressure to it: connecting it to the tank without the diaphragm or actuator/push rod. I first crack the tank open, I may need to turn it off quickly. If it's quiet, I open it up all the way. If it's still quiet, I turn it OFF and listen. With a small blunt probe I push the plunger back and decompress the HP assembly.
I'm sure you know this method John, but I mention it so that others can use this method too. I do it this way because I can know for absolute certain where something is failing: if the first portion of the regulator works, I move onto the second part, that being the actuator/push rod diaphragm etc.
These original 1665's have a super thick diaphragm, and taking them out can be a bit tricky: it's trouble enough with a modern diaphragm that you want to reuse, but you can't just pop down to your local dive shop and pick one up... OK, actually I can, but most people can't.
JB
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Post by tomcatpc on Jan 2, 2017 22:36:48 GMT -8
I did something similar with my SCUBA, as in not having the diaphragm and cover on, but I did not have those parts yet. Hoping I need to use this info soon again.
Mark
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Post by SeaRat on Jan 3, 2017 18:32:01 GMT -8
John, the method I use when assembling a rare one like this, especially if I REALLY don't want to take apart again is to put the HP assembly together. Then I'll add air pressure to it: connecting it to the tank without the diaphragm or actuator/push rod. I first crack the tank open, I may need to turn it off quickly. If it's quiet, I open it up all the way. If it's still quiet, I turn it OFF and listen. With a small blunt probe I push the plunger back and decompress the HP assembly. I'm sure you know this method John, but I mention it so that others can use this method too. I do it this way because I can know for absolute certain where something is failing: if the first portion of the regulator works, I move onto the second part, that being the actuator/push rod diaphragm etc. These original 1665's have a super thick diaphragm, and taking them out can be a bit tricky: it's trouble enough with a modern diaphragm that you want to reuse, but you can't just pop down to your local dive shop and pick one up... OK, actually I can, but most people can't. JB Jaybird, I took your advise, and decided to tear it down to parts again. I then examined the seat, and so a little "score" on one side, and so turned it over. With a new O-ring, I again installed it, then the seat holder, spring, restrictor and O-ring, placed the sintered filter in, got a new pencil from Chris and used my circlip pliers to insert the circlip. 'Got it, put the yolk on, and went out to the garage. My cylinder is now at about 700 psig (from 1800--that's how much testing of this regulator on my 52 cubic foot cylinder I did). Anyway, I put the first stage minus the diaphragm and everything else on the tank, pressurized it and...nothing. "Nothing!" I said, "No Leaks!" I had done it! I went back inside and got my actuator pin, and depressurized the first stage. I was a bit anxious about this, and glad I had only about 700 psig pressure in the tank. That way, it would be easier to get the first stage off. I was able to push the actuator pin in with my thumb, and "Pssssssft" it depressurized. I then put the rest of the stage back together, and pressurized it, but I had forgotten the HP spring. The LP gauge said I got about 90 psig in it, so I depressurized it with the gauge, then went back, put EVERYTHING back together, and came out expecting to get a functioning first stage for my Scubair. I put it on the tank, without screwing in the adjusting pin, thinking it would be about 90 psig. Nope! "Ahhhh, phooey"" I said to nobody in particular. "I still cannot get the interstage down at 90 or so psig!" The OPRV was leaking a bit, so I tightened it with my Allen wrench. It still leaks, but not much. The interstage pressure without anything on it is about 140 psig. And I cannot get it lower--don't know why. I had assembled the tilt-valve second stage, and screwed it into the LP slot that had been taken by the IP gauge, turned on the air, and had just a very small leak out of the OVRV. I test-breathed off it, and even with the old diaphragm it was breathing okay. At this point, I'm not sure what to do with this regulator. It is assembled, and would work in the water, but I'm not yet confident enough in it to do anything but take it into the pool. But Jaybird's advise above was great, and proved that you can teach an ol' dog new tricks (I had not thought about this one before). BUT, I said to myself, "I would not try this on a full tank at 2250 or even 1800 psig, as removing the first stage that's locked up may be difficult." John |
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Post by SeaRat on Jan 3, 2017 21:50:28 GMT -8
Okay, I have gone on to the Scubair 300 sonic reserve. I took apart the second stage, cleaned it, and and reassembled it. I then put it on the Scubair 300 first stage. I tried to put it on my Sherwood J-valve, and it would not fit. So I brought it back in, then saw stamped on the side a patent number, 2,244,196. Here I see that patent: patents.google.com/patent/US3244196A/enJohn PS, I will distill this text down so that's it is readable later, as this is not really possibl on my iPad. |
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