gair
Regular Diver
Posts: 24
|
Post by gair on Dec 18, 2019 11:03:18 GMT -8
i have a hw tank valve from 1963 or 64. it has a high pressure port. i have a few questions about it. anyone know the thread type? or will a standard high pressure hose screw in? if it is fitted with a hose and guage, how can you release the pressue after the regulator is removed? help gair
|
|
|
Post by nikeajax on Dec 18, 2019 13:02:54 GMT -8
Gair, does it look like this one? It uses a Standard American threads, and any 3/8" HP hose will work. As soon as you turn off the air to the reg the SPG will decompress too. You aren't talking about the burst disc plug are you? JB
|
|
gair
Regular Diver
Posts: 24
|
Post by gair on Dec 18, 2019 15:26:56 GMT -8
No. the burst disk is on the other side. It is a j valve with 3/4 inch threads. Thanks, will use this instead of a banjo connection for rebuilding my HW gold lable. I purchased both in late 63 or early 64.
gair
|
|
|
Post by nikeajax on Dec 18, 2019 15:36:52 GMT -8
Firstly, I just had to make sure-- I never assume anything!Next, yes, just put your SPG-hose into that port. I have one of those valves too. Finally, nice choice all those years ago, this is a first class regulator Which mouthpiece are you using? JB
|
|
|
Post by vance on Dec 18, 2019 16:26:49 GMT -8
NOT all HP ports on valves will turn off when you turn the tank valve off. Be careful here. MOST do. Not all.
I think you're talking about the ports, not the valve body/tank thread?
1/2" valves are (almost) always NPT (national pipe thread). There might be a 1/2" straight thread valve with an o-ring, but I've never seen one. That doesn't mean much.
Early ports are 3/8" x 24 tpi, which is the standard thread for HP and LP hoses. You can usually tell if it is an HP port by the TINY drilling that allows air in: < 1/16". LP air is usually > 1/8" or so. If you connect your LP device to HP, you will get an error message--
BLAM!!!
Be careful, y'all.
|
|
|
Post by tomcatpc on Dec 18, 2019 16:37:20 GMT -8
I don't have a photo of one of my Healthways J-Valves, but on the right is a Healthways K-Valve, which is very similar to the J-Valve with the omission of the reserve feature. Is the valve you are talking about similar to this? I actually like using a J-Valve like it was intended to, just takes a leap of faith. Mark Disregard the Dacor J-Valve. 75303386_2831734216878506_2573472158118313984_o by Mark Lodge, on Flickr
|
|
|
Post by nikeajax on Dec 18, 2019 16:46:50 GMT -8
This is why we have our forum: to make sure we learn from others! Thanks for the heads-up Phil JB
|
|
|
Post by vance on Dec 18, 2019 16:49:10 GMT -8
.... but on the right is a Healthways K-Valve Yes, the valve on the right has an HP port.
|
|
|
Post by tomcatpc on Dec 18, 2019 16:57:09 GMT -8
I know that, that is why I shared this photo. Could have sworn I had a photo of a Healthways J-Valve, but not go, a K-Valve was the best I could do for now. Mark
|
|
|
Post by cnotthoff on Dec 18, 2019 17:59:40 GMT -8
Early ports are 3/8" x 24 tpi, which is the standard thread for HP and LP hoses. You can usually tell if it is an HP port by the TINY drilling that allows air in: < 1/16". LP air is usually > 1/8" or so. If you connect your LP device to HP, you will get an error message-- BLAM!!! Be careful, y'all. Before manufacturers switched to 7/16 for HP ports, I attended a regulator clinic for Mares. We were provided with a LPI hose and a gauge mounted to a quick disconnect nipple to check intermediate pressure. A participant screwed that LPI hose into an HP port. Damn, that thing was loud when it blew. Good Dives, Charlie
|
|
|
Post by vance on Dec 18, 2019 19:18:57 GMT -8
Yup. It'll wake the neighbors!
|
|
gair
Regular Diver
Posts: 24
|
Post by gair on Dec 20, 2019 7:59:05 GMT -8
yes my j valve looks like that picture. I plan on rebuilding it after I am done with my goldlable. The mouthpiece i intend to use is the Kracken one. Once i get that last piece then, fine tune the the breathing. Thanks for the help. gair
|
|
|
Post by vance on Dec 20, 2019 8:56:08 GMT -8
The DSV is a good choice for the GL. It has a deflector to keep air from blowing past the mp and down the exhaust hose, like the 1" OEM GL mp. You'll appreciate the air delivery using the larger mouthpiece. Be sure your DSV is FULLY open or closed in use. They can be sneaky.
|
|
|
Post by vance on Dec 21, 2019 10:14:48 GMT -8
yes my j valve looks like that picture. I plan on rebuilding it after I am done with my goldlable. The mouthpiece i intend to use is the Kracken one. Once i get that last piece then, fine tune the the breathing. Thanks for the help. gair As Mark (Scubalawyer) points out, the GL has a tiny sweet spot in its lever adjustment that, when found, really ramps up the venturi action. It is within an 1/8 turn of the adjuster screw! I replace the screwdriver slotted ones with allen set-screws so the wrench can act as a pointer for the screw's position. Just be sure they're stainless. I use a small wrench on the nut simultaneously with the allen wrench to keep the adjuster screw in a memorized position when the lock nut is tightened. You have to play with it, because the tiny change tightening the locknut makes can pull you off the spot! You get a feel for where the optimum interface between the plate and the adjuster is, but then it's micro steps to the sweet spot.
|
|
|
Post by nikeajax on Dec 21, 2019 11:51:12 GMT -8
Phil, thank you for articulating that! I've heard various people talk about it but they NEVER describe a method for achieving it...
JB
|
|