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Post by duckbill on Apr 8, 2020 20:35:40 GMT -8
In 06 I had some made from my own design that sold very well here and elsewhere. It's still on my primary rig and going strong at 14 years. I love it! Thanks again for making them available when there were none to be found
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Post by duckbill on Apr 8, 2020 20:40:20 GMT -8
Found my original AM LP Hookah port adapter that I got from Professional Scuba Repair in 1973! Definitely a proverbial hen's tooth. Good thing it didn't get lost through the years.
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Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2020 6:59:39 GMT -8
Looks like something that Dr. Frankenreg cooked up! With no disrespect to any of you, I feel that the Phoenix First Stage by VDH is a better solution. The phoenix 1st stage did not exist at that time.......go back thru the years and you will see the gradual evolution and development based on written needs by divers both on this forum and VDH......I used my hookah port adapter with three way spliter while diving in Brazil and it worked fine but it left a lot to be desired with the hoses all going every which way........Luis developed the Phoenix 1st stage and my MB-mk3 prototype followed a year or so later........Luis continued fine tuning his ideas ending with the Kraken, I doubt he is resting on his laurels and is working on something even better......my design is still undergoing testing and may or may not be made public, depending on results and funding.
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Post by Jim Perdway on Sept 21, 2021 5:09:45 GMT -8
I would definitely buy an adapter if they are ever available again.
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Post by antique diver on Sept 21, 2021 6:49:56 GMT -8
I would definitely buy an adapter if they are ever available again. Until the day when nice ones are available again here's the inexpensive fittings you can pick up at any welding supply store, Tractor Supply, etc. The nut and nipple are the common O 2 fittings. Seems like I also saw some at a Home Depot. I have used these on my double hose regs for years, primarily to feed my drysuits, and as you can see it makes a nice compact union with your reg. You just cut the 3/8' fitting off the 1/4" ID BC or regulator hose of your choice (making sure it's long enough to reach the appliance you want to feed) and insert the barbed Oxygen end. The crimp shown does require a tool, but you can use a miniature screw type hose clamp.
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Post by Jim Perdway on Sept 21, 2021 7:21:28 GMT -8
Awesome, thanks so much for showing me this!
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Post by antique diver on Sept 21, 2021 8:20:53 GMT -8
Awesome, thanks so much for showing me this! You're welcome. BTW, welding supply places should be able to crimp your hose onto their fitting. If all else fails you can send hose and parts to me and I'll crimp it.
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Post by Jim Perdway on Sept 21, 2021 10:03:55 GMT -8
I’ve got a few tractor supply places in the area that may be able to help. That’s a very nice offer if they can’t help crimp it, thank you. First I need to actually remove the cap, which I’ve struggled with so far. I’ve haven’t put too much torque into it because I don’t want to bend any brass or anything. Any tips on this?
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Post by antique diver on Sept 21, 2021 11:26:25 GMT -8
I’ve got a few tractor supply places in the area that may be able to help. That’s a very nice offer if they can’t help crimp it, thank you. First I need to actually remove the cap, which I’ve struggled with so far. I’ve haven’t put too much torque into it because I don’t want to bend any brass or anything. Any tips on this? I have run into that problem too. Holding the cans and torquing the cap could possibly bend the flats of the cans. I could be wrong here, but I think you would be better off installing the regulator firmly to a tank and valve when you try to unscrew the cap. The can walls being the weak point, and the body casting and yoke being much stronger. I hope someone else may be able to offer up a better suggestion!
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Post by luis on Sept 21, 2021 12:15:59 GMT -8
Yes, I totally agree that you really don’t want to use the can as a wrench to carry any load. You can do what Bill (antique diver) suggested and it should be OK unless it turn out to be too stubborn. The yoke is probably OK, but I have seen the mating surface against the valve deformed, mostly from impact but I would be careful. I would try Bill’s method unless you feel it is time to go for the cheater pipe. One way I have done it in the past is take everything else apart, removing all the first and second stage component. Then you have two parallel surfaces between the front and the back of the main body. Using two thin block of wood clamp it in a substantial vise and then you can safely apply some torsion. The wood or heavy cardboard will spread and even load to avoid any marks, but neither of those surfaces are functionally critical. The back is just a ring (where the first stage body screws in) and it is not a lot of area, so it can be dented slightly, but it will not affect function if you do. Good luck
Added:
I highlighted something in bold that might have not been clear before.
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Post by SeaRat on Sept 21, 2021 12:39:52 GMT -8
I’ve got a few tractor supply places in the area that may be able to help. That’s a very nice offer if they can’t help crimp it, thank you. First I need to actually remove the cap, which I’ve struggled with so far. I’ve haven’t put too much torque into it because I don’t want to bend any brass or anything. Any tips on this? I have run into that problem too. Holding the cans and torquing the cap could possibly bend the flats of the cans. I could be wrong here, but I think you would be better off installing the regulator firmly to a tank and valve when you try to unscrew the cap. The can walls being the weak point, and the body casting and yoke being much stronger. I hope someone else may be able to offer up a better suggestion! On one of the other recent threads, we showed a tool, a wrench with a slot for the body, that the U.S. Navy required for this job. Then one of our members showed how to make one out of wood. I would suggest this rather that using the top can as a lever. Aquamaster & tools001 by John Ratliff, on Flickr The lower right tool. John
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Post by Jim Perdway on Sept 21, 2021 13:58:58 GMT -8
Oh yes thank you for the reminder, John. I remember seeing the wooden one and I believe it was actually posted by Bill here
I tried with it mounted on tank, but it didn’t budge with reasonable torque. Do you think in this case for the amount of force that will likely be required, I’m better off limiting the components involved and trying Luis’ method?
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Post by antique diver on Sept 21, 2021 15:12:33 GMT -8
Oh yes thank you for the reminder, John. I remember seeing the wooden one and I believe it was actually posted by Bill here I tried with it mounted on tank, but it didn’t budge with reasonable torque. Do you think in this case for the amount of force that will likely be required, I’m better off limiting the components involved and trying Luis’ method? At this point I would do as Luis suggested and take the whole thing apart and use wooden blocks to hold the body in a vise. It's good to do that and give it a good cleanup that it may need anyway. If you are reluctant to do that you might try the old timer heat trick, but you will have to be careful not to overheat to point of melting plastics and rubber parts or damage the chrome. A small propane torch can be used to apply enough heat evenly around just the cap that it just becomes too hot to hold... no more. Then apply the wrench. Actually I like the complete disassembly method better!
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Post by Jim Perdway on Sept 21, 2021 15:18:46 GMT -8
Luckily it will be undergoing a rebuild anyway so I’ll go with the disassembly. I did consider the ol timer method and was hoping it wouldn’t lead to that!
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Post by SeaRat on Sept 21, 2021 16:12:33 GMT -8
Do you think in this case for the amount of force that will likely be required, I’m better off limiting the components involved and trying Luis’ method?... ...Luckily it will be undergoing a rebuild anyway so I’ll go with the disassembly. I did consider the ol timer method and was hoping it wouldn’t lead to that! Yes, stay away from the heat. There is a lot that can be damaged by heat (extreme heat, not the normal sunlight type heat). Rather than Luis' method, I'd make the tool and actually disassemble the regulator. That way, you can get it all the way down, and rebuild it totally. I think Luis' method is good for a regulator that has already been rebuilt, but is somewhat stuck, and the tool is not available. John
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