Here is the DIY Diving Suit article in its entirety:
Diving with an aqualung is now a popular sport but its enjoyment in this country is tempered, except at the height of summer, by the cold water. In any case, the waters in all parts of the world are cold some way below the surface. The underwater swimmers in our seas and rivers, therefore, or those venturing far below the surface, must protect themselves against the cold.
The necessary protection is given by a rubber-proofed suit. This is fitted with water-tight seals at the neck, wrists and ankles and. when worn over suitable underclothes, keeps the diver dry and warm. An alternative when the water is not too cold is a “wet suit,” usually made of sponge rubber. This fits fairly tightly and although wet it prevents heat being carried away by the cold water which would otherwise be flowing over and in immediate contact with the body. This keeps the swimmer surprisingly warm and, worn in the summer, enables him to enjoy quite long periods in the water.
Comparison of CostsThe present cost of a dry suit ranges from £12 10s. to £24 10s. and the wet suit from £6 6s. to £12. The price of £12 10s. for the cheapest dry suit is quite reasonable considering the materials and workmanship involved. However, a considerable saving can be effected by making your own suit. The dry suit described here can be made for a cost of £3 2s. to £4 12s. the exact cost depending on what materials are already available. The wet suit can be made for £1 16s. 6d. to £2 19s. Both the dry and wet suits, carefully made, compare quite favourably with the commercial ones.
How the Suits are MadeThe dry suit is made by stretching suitable garments, preferably a long-sleeved vest and long pants, over wooden frames and then painting on an air-drying latex solution. The suit is then completed by securing rubber cuffs at the wrists and ankles, a rubber neck seal and waistbands. The rubber attachments provide the necessary water-tight seal. Water is kept out at the waist by rolling the two waistbands together, the roll being held in position at the waist with a rubber cummerbund. If desired, the suit can be fitted with a rubber hood and boots to give added protection.
The wet suit is made in a similar way to the dry one, but in this case a vest and short pants are required. These are proofed and fitted with rubber seals at the neck and wrists only. No attempt is made to seal off the suit completely but the cuffs and neck seal and a rubber cummerbund prevent the water flowing freely through the suit so that a layer of water is imprisoned against and warmed by the body.
Materials and CostsItems which must be bought are:
Neck seal: 8s 0d
Cuffs, 2 pairs at 4s. 9d.
Cummerbunds, 3 at 7s. 6d.
Rubber tape, 6 yards × 1in. wide, 3s. 10d
Rubber solution, 8oz. tube, 2s. 4d.
Latex solution (Revultex), 5lb. at 2s 4d.
Packing and postage, 4s. 6d.
Total cost, £3 2s 4d.
The cost of the complete dry suit will depend on what improvisations can be made with existing materials, The basic garments, that is, the vest and pants, need not be new or in very good condition. Any holes or tears can be darned, patched or sewn up before applying the latex solution; the final result will be quite satisfactory since the garments simply provide a base for the rubber coating that is to be applied. Money can be saved on the wooden frames by improvising with whatever materials are to hand.
The neck seal, cuffs, cummerbunds, rubber tape and the tube of rubber solution, all made by the Dunlop company, can be purchased from sports outfitters specialising in underwater swimming equipment. In particular they are readily available from Andrews & Dalton, Ltd., 126, Hanworth Road, Hounslow, Middlesex.
The neck seal is supplied in one size only and the neck opening marked so that the wearer can cut a larger hole if necessary to suit individual requirements. The cuffs for the ankle and wrist seals are identical and of one size; they stretch sufficiently to suit all individual requirements. Cummerbunds are supplied in two or more sizes. Two of these are to be secured to the suit in the form of waistband extensions to the tunic and trousers. A tight fit is undesirable here and two cummerbunds of the largest size should be ordered. The third cummerbund will be worn to hold the rolled waistbands in position and a medium or the smallest size, will be required.
The latex solution—trade name Revultex—is obtainable from Revertex, Ltd., Harlow, Essex. Head office: 51-55, Strand, London, W.C.2, This solution evaporates very quickly and the sealed container in which it is supplied should not be opened until the solution is about to be used.
The remaining items required are the vest or a jersey, the long pants and some wooden laths for the frame. If these are not to hand, then they can be purchased for:
Vest or jersey, 12s. 6d.
Long pants, 7s. 6d.
Wood, 10s. 0d.
Total, £1 10s. 0d.
Some difficulty may be experienced in the purchase of a long-sleeved vest. They are obtainable but usually at a prohibitive price. A government surplus store is the most likely supplier of a cheaper article. Interlock or a cotton and wool mixture is the best material for both vest and pants: this will not absorb too much of the latex solution and will allow the garments to be stretched to the correct size over the wooden frames. A long-sleeved sweater or jersey will suffice but it should not be too large, particularly around the waist, which should not measure more than 34in. unstretched. A larger garment can, however, be altered to the right size, if necessary, before proofing it with the latex solution.
The neck of the jersey should not be too low; the rubber neck seal should overlap the neck of the sweater or jersey by at least 2in. all round. A woollen sweater can be used but the weave should not be too open otherwise the garment will absorb an excessive amount of the latex solution and the recommended quantity of 5lb. will prove insufficient. Thick absorbent garments should in any case be avoided if possible since they will absorb perspiration in use and it will be difficult to keep the suit dry and aired. Such garments may be worn under the suit but these can be more easily aired or changed if necessary. Purchase of the long pants presents no difficulty; most suitable ones are available from Marks & Spencers, Ltd., at the price quoted.
The size of the vest and pants should, of course, suit the intended wearer but they should not be too large or too small to be stretched over the wooden frames shown in Fig. 1, but providing the arms and legs are not too short, most garments will stretch to the right size. The dimensions given for these frames are for the average figure. They are not critical and it will be found that a suit made on the frames shown will fit most figures. If necessary, however, the frames must be of a size to suit individual requirements. Any necessary alteration to the size of the frames is considered in detail when describing their construction; but this matter should be borne in mind when purchasing the garments which are to be stretched over the frames.
The Wooden FramesThese are shown in Fig. 1 and their construction detailed in Figs. 2 to 5. The frames should preferably be made of 2in. × 1in. timber as shown. However, if such timber is not available or is too costly you can improvise with whatever materials are to hand. For example, broom handles will suffice for the arms and legs and planking can be used for the body of the tunic. If only a limited amount of wood is available then the frame for the trousers can be made first, the trousers proofed and the frame dismantled and the wood used to make the frame for the tunic. However, this will be a lengthy operation since the proofing must be done in two stages.
Note how all the outside edges of the frame are radiused. This is so that the garments are not stretched over any sharp corners when in position on the frames. Sharp corners would result in the latex solution forming into ridges along the edges. The frames should be no less than 1in. thick or again there will be difficulty in applying an even coating of latex around the outside edges of the garments.
The frames are designed so that they can be dismantled and removed from inside the garments. This is necessary as the vest and pants will not stretch sufficiently after proofing for them to be pulled off over the assembled frames. The arms are made separately and secured to the body with coach bolts. The two legs of the frame are identical and are made as separate units. They are then inserted into the pants and joined together with two rails as shown in Fig. 5. These rails can be nailed or screwed into position. Screws are preferable if the frames are to be used to make several suits.
There is no need to take a lot of trouble with the frames; but make them sufficiently secure and robust to withstand the rough handling they will receive when the garments are being stretched into position, the latex applied and the complete assembly hung up to dry. There will be no saving of time or trouble if the frames collapse while in use. If the suit is being made by a member of a club such as the British Sub Aqua Club then it is worth while to pool the expense and effort in making a strong, durable frame that can be used to proof a number of suits for club members. The construction shown in Figs. 2 to 5 will be suitable in this case, but all joints should be glued as well as nailed and the rails on the trouser frame secured with screws, not nails.
The finished suit will not stretch very much and should therefore not fit too tightly. On the other hand it must not be too large or it will enclose too much air, even when vented, so that the diver will be too buoyant. The dimensions of the frames take account of this. In particular, a large arm hole is required; a tight fit here would make it difficult to get into the suit. Similarly, the size at the waist is important; the frames being dimensioned to give a waist measurement of about 36in. on the finished garments. If the waist were smaller it would be impossible to get the tunic over the arms and shoulders and to pull the trousers up over the hips. The waist should not, however, be much larger, otherwise it will be a bad fit and there will be difficulty in attaching the rubber waistbands. The trouser frame gives a leg opening at the bottom of the trousers of about 13in., which is just sufficient to permit the trouser leg to be eased over the ankle and heel. The opening should not be any larger or there will be difficulty in attaching the rubber ankle seal which is to be stretched over this circumference of 13in. and secured with rubber solution.
The frames were designed for an average figure of the following dimensions:
Chest (unexpanded), 36 in.
Waist, 32 in.
Arm (armpit to wrist), 22 in.
Inside leg (crutch to ankle), 30 in.
Thigh (thickest part), 24 in.
If the wearer is not of average size, the frames must be dimensioned to suit his particular requirements. For example, a 40in. chest would require an additional inch on the width of the frames for the tunic. The width of the waist at the top of the trouser frame (Fig. 5) can be altered by splaying out the legs a greater or lesser amount, before fitting the rails at top and bottom. This should be done so that the legs of the frame always meet at the crutch.
Applying the Latex SolutionPatch or darn the garments if necessary. Remove all tapes and buttons and sew up the button holes and the fly on the pants. Remove any tape, hem or other reinforcement around the waist so that the pants can be stretched quite freely.
Now stretch the garments over the frames as shown in Figs. 6 and 7. It will be found convenient to bolt one arm of the frame into position then to pull the vest over this before inserting and attaching the other arm. Insert the legs of the trouser frame separately into the pants and fix them together with the top and bottom rails. Stretch the garments over the frames so that the length of the arms, legs and tunic is as shown in Fig. 7. Any excess in these lengths is, however, of no consequence at this stage; the garments can be trimmed to the correct size after proofing. Tack the garments into position at the waist and if necessary around the neck.
The garments are now ready for proofing. The latex is applied with a wide paint brush, or better still a whitewash or distemper brush. A small quantity of petrol will be required for cleaning the brush. The latex is in a solution of ammonia and it should not be used in a confined place—the smell is rather unpleasant.
Lamp black can be mixed with the Revultex to give a black finish to the suit. This is not essential but it will improve the appearance of the suit and the resistance of the rubber surface to the ageing effects of light. Two or three ounces of lamp black to each pound of Revultex is sufficient. This mixture will not appear very dark but it dries out quite black. Any undissolved carbon in the mixture will produce a lumpy surface on the suit. Take care, therefore, to mix the carbon well into the solution, then let it stand for half an hour or more so that any unmixed carbon dissolves; stir the mixture again and it is ready for use.
Apply the first coat of latex sparingly or the garments will soak up too much of the solution. The solution dries quickly and, in fact, tends to dry on the brush as it is being used; the solution must, therefore, be applied fairly quickly. Clean the brush immediately and thoroughly after use and take care to remove all particles of latex, particularly from the roots of the brush. If the brush is not cleaned properly then small particles of latex will be deposited on the garments when applying subsequent coats and it will be difficult to apply the latex evenly. Hang the suit up to dry in an airy place but away from direct heat or sunlight. It will be dry and ready for another coat after five hours but it is preferable to leave the suit longer, say, overnight, if possible. Apply at least four coats; there is no harm in applying further coats if there is sufficient solution.
Now dust the suit with french chalk and remove the frames. Remove the bolts securing the arms of-the frame and withdraw the arm-pieces through the neck of the tunic. The tunic can now be pulled over the body of the frame. Remove the top and bottom rails of the trouser frame and withdraw each leg-piece.
Trimming to Correct Size.
Before securing the rubber seals at the neck, wrists, waist and ankles it is necessary to trim the tunic and trousers to the right size, and to mark off the position of the rubber seals. A ball-point pen will be found quite effective for marking the suit.
Try the suit on over some old trousers and a sweater. The arms and legs of the suit may be of the correct length, but check this and mark off the correct length if necessary. The wrist and ankle seals will add about 2in. to the length of the arm, and legs. Allow for this but do not cut the arms and legs too short. Leave sufficient length to allow for free movement of the limbs. Now mark off the position of your waist line on the tunic and trousers and cut them to overlap about 1in., at the waists. Allow sufficient room for bending when marking off the waist line on the trousers. The cuffs are to overlap 1½in. and the waistbands by 2in. on to the tunic and trousers. Mark off this amount of overlap on the suit; this will serve as a guide when attaching the cuffs and waistband.
Put the tunic and the neck seal on and then get somebody to outline the position of the neck seal on the tunic. Make sure that the tunic and neck seal are dressed down properly on your shoulders, The neck seal may be uncomfortably tight but do not enlarge the neck opening in the seal at this stage; it is better to leave this until you have used the suit and are quite sure that it is too tight. Remove the neck seal and tunic and cut the neck opening in the tunic to provide an overlap of about 2in. beyond the outline of the rubber neck seal.
Securing the Wrist and Ankle SealsThe rubber seals are secured with ordinary rubber solution as used for puncture repairs; a fair quantity of solution is required and the recommended 8oz. tube is the most economical purchase.
The method of attaching the wrist seals is shown in Fig. 8. Roughen the surfaces that are to be stuck together with emery cloth and then stretch the sleeves over two bottles of about 3½in. diameter. Bottles—of the right size—are most suitable since the tapered neck provides a good seating for the rubber cuffs; however, a tin or any other cylindrical former will suffice. Ease the cuffs into position so that they overlap the sleeves by about 1in., that is, to the marks previously made on the sleeves. Now fold this overlap back and apply rubber solution to the two surfaces that are to be stuck together. Wait until the surfaces are tacky and then press them firmly together. Make sure the cuffs are stuck well down, particularly around the edges; and then bind the joints as tightly as possible with several turns of 1in. insulating tape. Leave the joints for a few hours or longer, then remove the binding. Stick a band of 1in. rubber tape around the sleeve so that it covers the edge of the cuff. Again roughen the two surfaces that are to be stuck together and bind the joint as tightly as possible with ½in. insulating tape.
Leave for a few hours; finally, remove the binding and bottles and the joint is complete. The seals at the wrists, ankles, waist and neck can be dealt with in sequence and the whole job completed in two stages, that is (a) secure all the seals, bind and leave to dry, (b) secure rubber tape to cover the outside edges of the joints.
The ankle seals are secured in a similar manner to those at the wrist. However, the trouser legs are too large to stretch over bottles. If suitable cylindrical formers are not available then wooden ones, as shown in Fig. 9, can be used. The edges of these are radiused to fit into the trouser legs and the ends tapered to suit the small opening of the cuffs. The binding is not so effective in pressing the surfaces together with these flat formers. If flat formers are used, therefore, hammer the two surfaces together, particularly around the edge of the cuff and the 1in. rubber tape, before applying the binding.
The WaistbandsThese are secured in a similar manner to the cuffs, but in this case the former shown in Figs. 10 and 11 is used. One waistband is secured to the tunic and the other to the trousers. The waistbands are attached to the tunic and trousers in an identical manner and the former shown is suitable for both garments. Roughen the surfaces that are to be stuck together and then position the tunic and the waistband on the former so that the waistband overlaps the tunic by about 2in., that is, to the previously marked line. Now fold back the overlap of the waistband and apply the rubber solution. The solution has to be applied over quite a large area and it will be found most practicable to apply it and to press the two surfaces together first on one face of the former and then the ether The surfaces cannot be bound together effectively on this wide flat former; they should, therefore, be pressed and then hammered firmly together. Particularly around the edge of the waistband. When the waistband is secure, remove the former and check that the inside edge of the tunic is firmly secured to the rubber waistband. Hammer this edge down, if necessary. Replace the former, then roughen the surfaces and stick a band of 1in. rubber tape around the edge of the waistband. Press the tape on firmly and again hammer it down, particularly around the edges. Leave the former in position for an hour or so then remove and use it to attach a waistband to the trousers.
Securing the Neck SealThe shape of the neck seal makes it impractical to use a former; a little care is required in attaching it without a former, but the operation is not difficult. Roughen the two surfaces that are to be stuck together, apply the rubber solution, wait until the surfaces are tacky and then press the seal firmly into position on the tunic. Make use of the outline previously marked on the tunic and try to place the seal in the correct position first time; it is difficult to re-position it once the tacky surfaces have come into contact. As with the waistbands, it is best to apply the solution and to press the surfaces together first on one side of the tunic and then the other. Hammer the two surfaces firmly together. Pay particular attention in hammering down the edge of the seal; this must be quite secure since it is not to be covered with the 1in. rubber tape as were the other joints, Tum the tunic inside out and make sure that the inside edge, at the neck of the tunic, is firmly attached to the rubber seal. Hammer this edge down if necessary.
The suit is now complete. Make a final examination of the rubber seals. Turn the tunic and trousers inside out and examine the inside edges of the joints. Apply a little more solution and hammer the edges of the joints and the rubber tape down where necessary. Finally, dust the suit and the rubber seals with french chalk.
Dressing and UndressingYou will need some practice in getting the suit on and off, particularly over bulky underclothes, and may require some assistance to begin with. Try putting the suit on without underclothing at first. The dressing procedure is shown in Fig. 13. Step into the trousers, waistband between your shins and roll it down in a tight roll around the top of the trousers. Stretch the ankle seals over your heels and ease them into position just above your ankles. Now grasp the rolled waistband and pull the trousers up to the waist. Unroll the waistband up the chest and then fold it well down over the hips as shown in Fig. 13(a).
Next roll the waistband of the tunic into a tight roll. This can be done by stretching the waistband between your legs and rolling it down on to the tunic. Get the head and arms into the tunic and ease the cuffs into position over the wrists. Pull the neck seal over the head and ease the tunic down to the waist. Make sure the tunic and trousers meet well at the waist, smooth out any folds in the trouser waistband and then unroll the waistband of the tunic over the top of it to form a double thickness over the hips—see Fig. 13(b). Smooth out any folds and then roll the two waistbands into a tight roll around the waist as in Fig. 13(c).
All that remains is to roll on the cummerbund which holds the rolled waistbands in position and so complete the seal at the waist. Stretch the cummerbund between the shins and then roll it up from the bottom edge, over the hips and over the waistbands to the position shown in Fig. 13(c). Now unroll it down over the waistbands. Mask, fins and aqualung complete the ensemble as shown by Fig. 13(d).
To remove suit pull the neck seal over the head and the wrist seals over the hands. Now bend over and pull the tunic down over the shoulders. Once off the shoulders there is no difficulty.
A final check before entering the water: make sure the neck seal fits well around the neck and shoulders. Smooth out any folds in the wrist and ankle seals and pull them up on the forearms and legs, if necessary, to give a tighter fit.
Testing in the WaterEnter the water up to your neck with the arms at the side of the body so that all the air trapped in the suit rises to the neck. The suit can now be vented by easing the neck seal open until all the air has escaped but take care not to let in any water. Make sure that the neck seal is still fitting properly around the neck after this venting operation. Assuming you are suitably trained, weighted and equipped you are now free to dive.
A word of warning: do not dive without venting the suit properly. If your suit is not free of air then:
(a) Your buoyancy will decrease with depth since air in the suit will be compressed as you descend.
(b) The air can rise in the legs of the suit and so affect your “trim” under the water.
If there are any leaks, these may be due to lack of care when dressing; possibly the wrist and ankle seals were not pulled up high enough on the arms or legs. If this is not the cause then examine the attachment of the rubber seals—examine them in any case—and make sure that the 1in. rubber tape covering the edges of the cuffs and waistbands, is secure, particularly at the edges. Turn the suit inside out and make sure that the edges of the garments are firmly secured to the rubber seals. Apply some rubber solution and stick the edges of the garments, or tape, down where necessary.
The hole in the rubber neck seal can be enlarged now if necessary by cutting off one or more of the moulded rings; do not remove more than one ring at a time and try on the neck seal after each cutting until the fitting is satisfactory.
Sponge the outside of the suit down with cold water after use, particularly after immersion in chlorinated or salt water. Turn the suit inside out and hang up to air in a well-ventilated place but keep it away from direct heart and sunlight, Dust all the rubber surfaces with french chalk before putting the suit away and store it so that damp cannot penetrate inside the suit.
Rubber HoodFor a prolonged stay in the water, the head, hands and feet need some protection. In this case it is worth considering the alternatives of a rubber hood and boots in place of the neck and ankle seals and the addition of a pair of rubber gloves.
The hood covers the head and neck; the seal being provided by a tight fit around the face. It is fitted with ear pads designed to equalise the pressure on either side of the ear drums; these should not be removed, It is not practicable to make your own hood; it must be bought; the price is given on the next page. The hood is attached to the neck of the tunic in the same way as the neck seal. If a neck seal is already fitted then stick the hood in position over the neck seal. This gives a double seal against the entry of water and is a feature of some of the more expensive commercial suits.
BootsRubber boots can be bought or made. The commercial items are expensive, the suppliers and cost being listed on the next page. However, a serviceable pair of boots for attaching to the suit can be made by proofing a pair of socks, These should be of generous size and preferably in a thin wool or cotton material. Thick woollen socks are unsuitable since it would be difficult to attach these to the suit. Stretch the socks over a frame, such as the one shown in Fig. 12 and apply four or more coats of Revultex, Now turn the socks inside out on the frame and apply three or more coats to the top 24in. of the inside. This provides a rubber surface for adhesion to the trouser legs of the suit. Stick lightweight rubber soles and heels on the underside of the socks. Cut these soles and heels from a thin sheet of rubber if this is available. Thick soles and heels will be difficult to attach, will make the boots heavy and clumsy and it will be difficult to fit on your fins.
Put the trousers and boots on and trim the trousers if necessary so that the top of the boots overlap the bottom of the trouser legs by about 2in.Now stretch the trousers and boots over a suitable former and secure the boots with rubber solution; the boots to overlap at the joint by about 2in. Hammer the surfaces together to make a tight joint, then stick and again hammer bands of 1in., or wider, rubber tape around the outside edge of the joint.
Rubber GlovesThese, only necessary in extreme conditions, are best worn separately and not attached to the suit. They are fitted with cuffs to provide a seal at the wrists. Any thin rubber gloves are suitable and a pair of cuffs as used on the suit, Cut the gloves off short at the wrist, that is, about 1½in. above the thumb hole. Stretch the gloves and cuffs over bottles and secure the cuffs with rubber solution. Pull the cuffs well down to give an overlap of 1in. or more before securing them to the gloves.
Venting ValveAnother useful accessory is a venting valve, This, a simple “Spear” valve, is fitted at the back of the neck seal or hood and allows air to escape from the suit as the diver enters and descends into the water. The valve can be fitted by cutting a small hole in the neck seal or hood. A short piece of tubing, about ¾in. o.d, then serves as a former. This is inserted in the hole and the valve pulled down over it so that it overlaps around the hole in the neck seal or hood. The overlap is pulled back, rubber solution applied and the two surfaces stuck together.
The rubber hood, boots and Spear valve can be purchased from Andrews and Dalton, Ltd., 126, Hanworth Road, Hounslow, Middlesex, the costs being:
Hood, £2 2s. 0d.
Boots, £2 5s. 6d.
Spear valve, 2s 9d.
Wet SuitA wet suit can be made quite simply and cheaply. Such a suit does not keep the diver dry, but holds a layer of water near to the body, thus preventing the body heat being carried away by the cold water circulating freely over the skin. The suit is made in a similar way to the dry one, but short pants are sufficient and there is no need to go to so much trouble in providing seals against the entry of water, The suit should, however, provide a snug fit at the neck and wrists and around the thighs so water cannot flow freely throughout the suit.
Choose a fairly thick and absorbent material for the basic garments, but remember, if the weave is too open it will soak up an excessive quantity of the Revultex. If short pants of the required tight fit are unavailable then cut the legs off some long ones, If the legs are too wide cut a piece out of each leg and sew them up to the right size. The wet suit should fit closer to the body than the dry one otherwise it will tend to trap a large volume of water which will use up body heat; choose the garments accordingly.
A rubber neck seal, as used on the dry suit, is essential but it need not fit so tightly around the neck. Cuffs can be fitted at the wrists, but they are not essential provided the sleeves fit fairly tightly. Rubber waistbands on the tunic and trousers are unnecessary. A belt, or preferably a single cummerbund (smallest size), around the waist will be sufficient.
Items which must be bought for the wet suit are:
Neck seal, 8s 0d.
Cuffs, 1 pair, 4s. 9d.
Cummerbund, 7s. 6d.
Revultex, 4lb. at 2s 4d.
Rubber solution, 8-oz. tube, 2s 4d.
Postage, 4s. 6d.
Total: £1 16s. 5d.
These are made by the Dunlop Company and obtainable from the sports outfitters mentioned earlier. The remaining items, if not already available, can be purchased for:
Vest or jersey, 12s. 6d.
Short pants, 5s 0d.
Wood, 5s 0d.
Total, £1 2s. 6d.
The wooden frame for the tunic should be similar to the one used for the dry suit (Figs. 2 and 3), but the width of the body should preferably be about 1in. less than that shown and the arm pieces about ½in. less in depth. A frame suitable for the short trousers of the wet suit is shown in Figs. 14 and 15. This is suitable for the average figure. The only important dimension here is that which determines the size of the leg opening since the pants are to fit fairly tightly around the thighs.
Sew some loops inside the waist of the short pants before proofing them. A cord threaded through these will serve as a simple belt to secure the trousers and tunic at the waist, The short trousers should be stretched on the frame, as shown in Fig. 16. Apply at least four coats of the latex to the garments, then attach the rubber seals at the neck and wrists as described for the dry suit.
Revertex Limited cannot supply Revultex in small quantities. This can be obtained from P. K. Dutt, Ltd., 1, Alfred Place, London, W.C.1.
FIGURES
DRW
)
)
