Post by vance on Oct 1, 2018 8:43:30 GMT -8
I was just skimming through the various HW Scuba threads on here, some of which are very lengthy, and couldn't find all of the posts about the different valves and internal parts used with the Scuba series of double hose regulators. So, I think it would be a good idea to make a reference thread that consolidates this information.
This was prompted by another adventure with a rebuild, a GL this time, caused by part variations I, at least, didn't know about or expect.
I will move or copy old posts over time, and try to get it all in here.
It appears that the Scuba got a long or short valve during its entire run. Every Deluxe I have seen is short, every GL has been short.
This shows the different valve lengths. Note the different threads:
The different plungers:
I did not keep track of which restrictor plate was in the the short/long versions, unfortunately. So, I don't have any idea which plate was used when. There are at least 3 different plates.
(A restrictor plate provided a "reserve" function, pre SPG days, that would alert the diver that air was at around 500 psig. This tiny aperture made it hard to breathe when the tank pressure got low, so, in order to continue breathing, one had to ascend to the surface.)
However, the machined restrictor plate does not compensate for the length of the valve bore. It is cut in the spring seat so it is essentially only as thick as the stamped restrictor plate. The bore length difference is taken up by the different nylon plungers which were machined to seat the spring high or low.
Machined restrictor "K":
Stamped plate "K":
Stamped plate "J":
The "J" plate did not provide a reserve function. It is only there as a spring and o-ring carrier. I wouldn't be surprised if there was a machined "J" plate, but I've never seen one.
So, one has to be careful when replacing the nylon plunger in a Scuba. The short plunger in a long valve will provide much less spring pressure on the plunger, causing very floppy feeling lever action and a very low cracking effort which may cause problems. (EDIT: The opposite could happen as well, with a long plunger in a short valve, the cracking effort would be considerable, if the thing could be assembled at all!)
I am surprised to have never seen a reference to the different valves or plungers anywhere. It is an obvious difference, and means that you can't just switch valve parts around willy-nilly!
This was prompted by another adventure with a rebuild, a GL this time, caused by part variations I, at least, didn't know about or expect.
I will move or copy old posts over time, and try to get it all in here.
It appears that the Scuba got a long or short valve during its entire run. Every Deluxe I have seen is short, every GL has been short.
This shows the different valve lengths. Note the different threads:
The different plungers:
I did not keep track of which restrictor plate was in the the short/long versions, unfortunately. So, I don't have any idea which plate was used when. There are at least 3 different plates.
(A restrictor plate provided a "reserve" function, pre SPG days, that would alert the diver that air was at around 500 psig. This tiny aperture made it hard to breathe when the tank pressure got low, so, in order to continue breathing, one had to ascend to the surface.)
However, the machined restrictor plate does not compensate for the length of the valve bore. It is cut in the spring seat so it is essentially only as thick as the stamped restrictor plate. The bore length difference is taken up by the different nylon plungers which were machined to seat the spring high or low.
Machined restrictor "K":
Stamped plate "K":
Stamped plate "J":
The "J" plate did not provide a reserve function. It is only there as a spring and o-ring carrier. I wouldn't be surprised if there was a machined "J" plate, but I've never seen one.
So, one has to be careful when replacing the nylon plunger in a Scuba. The short plunger in a long valve will provide much less spring pressure on the plunger, causing very floppy feeling lever action and a very low cracking effort which may cause problems. (EDIT: The opposite could happen as well, with a long plunger in a short valve, the cracking effort would be considerable, if the thing could be assembled at all!)
I am surprised to have never seen a reference to the different valves or plungers anywhere. It is an obvious difference, and means that you can't just switch valve parts around willy-nilly!