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Post by vance on Apr 22, 2022 9:08:08 GMT -8
I am revisiting my failed attempts to mod the 2500 series HP pin contact bolt to make it adjustable. The later models use an o'ring sealed setscrew through the bolt to allow changes to the IP setting. However, the bolt diameter is larger in the later part than the 2500s. This limits the size of the setscrew to pretty much 8-32. The later ones use a larger diameter setscrew, which makes it easier to source a suitable o'ring. A later style bolt with the adjuster can be fitted into the 2500 regulator, but it requires permanent mods to both the adjuster and the HP diaphragm due to the larger diameter, the need for a lever spring seat, and b/c it's too long. Not too big a problem, if you have an extra. I cut an o'ring groove in an 8-32 setscrew, and drilled and tapped the bolt. There's a short smooth section to accommodate the o'ring. I've ordered some o'rings that should work, and will test it out when they arrive.
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Post by Jim Perdway on Apr 22, 2022 10:20:42 GMT -8
I don’t really understand it, but I’m glad you’re doing it!
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Post by antique diver on Apr 22, 2022 11:06:14 GMT -8
Nice job! That reg needed it.
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Post by vance on Apr 22, 2022 13:40:57 GMT -8
I don’t really understand it, but I’m glad you’re doing it! The setscrew adjusts the IP by increasing or decreasing the amount of spring pressure that is transferred to the HP pin. The 2500s have no built-in provision for IP adjustment, so one would need to shim the spring to increase IP or shorten the pin to decrease IP.
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Post by Jim Perdway on Apr 22, 2022 16:09:54 GMT -8
Do you know what the factory setting is for these? When we checked mine at your place I remember it was quite high, but luckily I was able to get it sealed up okay
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Post by vance on Apr 24, 2022 15:33:37 GMT -8
I've seen them at 160-ish at high tank pressure, which means at 500 psig, it could be significantly higher.
I got some tiny o'rings and tried them, but they are probably too small. Ordered some different ones, which might work better. I assembled the regulator, mostly, but need to fix the HP seat and install the valve guts, so I haven't tried it yet.
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Post by SeaRat on Apr 24, 2022 17:55:35 GMT -8
When you set it, if you have the ability to measure the IP, do it at 500 psig tank pressure, as that is where it will be highest. If you don't have the ability to measure the IP, then simply have the second stage attached, and at 500 psig set the pressure so it barely leaks, the back it off a bit and call it "Good." I was taught this by the U.S. Navy for field disassembly, cleaning and reassembly of the DA Aquamaster in 1967.
John
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Post by vance on Apr 24, 2022 19:54:25 GMT -8
I made an IP adapter that allows me to measure IP with a gauge.
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Post by vance on Apr 26, 2022 14:47:13 GMT -8
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Post by vance on Apr 26, 2022 14:50:02 GMT -8
Here's what the USD puck cup mod on the second stage lever looks like: The second stage volcano needs to be shortened to accommodate the extra thickness of the cup. The cup and second stage mods are permanent, but there's no reason to ever go back. New OEM levers are rare, and the mods allow owners to service their regulators.
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Post by Jim Perdway on Apr 26, 2022 15:25:15 GMT -8
That’s great, congrats!!
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Post by vance on Apr 26, 2022 15:36:15 GMT -8
I know this is an odd statement for me to make, but I'm not that big a fan of Dacor regs. The attraction has always been that you can get them for little money, and modding opportunities abound.
I much prefer the cachet of DivAir, Sportsways, and certain single stage USD and Voit models. Then, there's the HW trinity, plus any other interesting, different regulator that I might encounter.
Dacors are the equivalent of AMC Ramblers. OK, I admit that HWs are like Studebakers, but to me, that's one step up.
DAAMs are Fords, Triestes are Chevys.
That said, the Dacor is a marvel. It's easy to work on, has a clever and simple design, and they work. There are problems and limitations, sure. There's much more, but you should always replace their hoseloops with USD. When you do that, they will perform adequately.
Does anyone else have an opinion?
Heh.
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Post by SeaRat on Apr 26, 2022 16:45:27 GMT -8
I have always been disappointed in the Dacor double hose series. Their R-3 was adequate, but not exceptional. I had years ago hoped that their R-4 would be the equivalent of a DA Aquamaster, but it never panned out that way. I in the 1970s bought all the parts to make my R-3 into an R-4, and did so. But I never got the performance I wanted. So I looked at it, and figured out that the Dacor engineers made a mistake when they designed the lever system on the R-4. They put that weird semi-circular arangement onto the secondary lever that actually made the levers less efficient when the secondary lever slid down on the primary. I straightened that out, and sent it in with the Dacor rep to their headquarters with a written question as to why they did that? I never got a response, and when I inquired, they had lost my regulator. So they sent me what I later determined was a pre-production Dacor Pacer to replace it (pre-production because the two exhalation wagonwheels in the second stage weren't wagonwheels, they were 4 drilled circular outlets around the center of the mushroom valve). So I think the Dacor engineers, once they actually designed the R-4, never looked at it again.
John
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Post by vance on Apr 26, 2022 17:31:23 GMT -8
Dacor DH regs have serious limitations. This was mostly due to their reluctance to modify the design much, and to invest in needed machining changes. They needed to do several things to make the Dacor line a contender in the DH world, including making the 4/800 series a DH reg.
Hindsight, eh?
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Post by Jim Perdway on Apr 27, 2022 5:38:25 GMT -8
In the hypothetical that I could only keep one of my double hoses, it certainly wouldn’t be a Dacor. However, I still love them and without Phil’s restoration and resale of these I may have never really taken up this hobby, so I’ll always appreciate them!
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