Nikonos

[Tusker]

A few recent dives have me pining for a new camera system I can get a housing for.

That’s led me back to thinking about the Nikonos. While I’m moving some cameras I don’t use anymore to get a new digital system, I also like the idea of getting an early Calypso/Nikonos to use. As far as I can tell, everything from the III down just uses O-rings and has no electronics — I should be able to get a seal that’s useable to, say, 60 ft, right?

Jacob

[antique diver]

Aug 6, 2023 5:40:15 GMT -8 Tusker said:

A few recent dives have me pining for a new camera system I can get a housing for.

That’s led me back to thinking about the Nikonos. While I’m moving some cameras I don’t use anymore to get a new digital system, I also like the idea of getting an early Calypso/Nikonos to use. As far as I can tell, everything from the III down just uses O-rings and has no electronics — I should be able to get a seal that’s useable to, say, 60 ft, right?

Jacob

Not sure now, but for some reason I think those first three were originally rated to 160'.

Of course, besides the obvious body and lens mount orings, there are aging orings under the lens control knobs, shutter & shutter speed controls, and maybe some others I don't recall. Still have one of each that probably work, but still reluctant to part with them from the vintage collection.

We had many years of good luck with all those through the III, but found the IV to have troublesome back door sealing, so I wouldn't recommend them except for a non-diving display. The V's were not entirely trouble free, mostly issues with the electronics. I think we have 3 that still work ok on manual. They saw a lot of use, and some of our issues may have been our fault for the lack of periodic professional servicing.

[Tusker]

Bill, that's why I'm optimistic of being able to have enough of a seal to stay in the shallows.

Good point on the smaller ones under the dials. Any idea how hard those are to get to? As I understand the camera system, the main ones are relatively easy to maintain. It's the body one I'm concerned about the availability of though.

If you've had them scanned, you should put up some of your pictures!

Jacob

[SeaRat]

Jacob,

I really like the Nikonos system, and still have my two Nikonos IIs. I used one last week on a canoe trip with the 35mm lens. It's easy to use, and is waterproof.

I haven't dived mine yet, as I'm still thinking about doing some work to replace O-rings, etc. But the main O-rings are still in very good shape after about five decades, believe it or not. I have taken them off and lubricated them on the lens andh main body. I have lubricated the film rewind post by pulling it out, putting Nikonos lube grease on it, and then pushing it in several times.

There are a few publications you should get. One is Peter Rowlands The Underwater Photographer's Handbook.
www.amazon.com/Underwater-Photographers-Handbook-Peter-Rowlands/dp/0442277164/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3FHHQ7T2LEQKW&keywords=Rowlands%2C+The+Underwater+Photographers+Handbook&qid=1691422800&s=books&sprefix=rowlands%2C+the+underwater+photographers+handboo%2Cstripbooks%2C145&sr=1-1

This goes into detail on the Nikonos system, and shows how to field strip the Nikonos III and IVA cameras.

Also, our friend Fred Roberts put together two editionss of a book titled Nikonos Photography - the Camera and System.
www.amazon.com/Nikonos-Photography-Fred-M-Roberts/dp/0912746009/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1OGFE4BVNJVUD&keywords=Roberts%2C+Nikonos+Photography&qid=1691423271&s=books&sprefix=roberts%2C+nikonos+photography%2Cstripbooks%2C159&sr=1-1

I would highly recommend this book too. Toward the back Roberts put together a table called "Trouble Shooting the Nikonos Camera - Table 7-1." This is for the Nikonos and Nikonos II systems.

Another book is Flip Schulke's Underwater Photopraphy for Everyone.
www.amazon.com/Underwater-Photography-Everyone-Flip-Schulke/dp/0139364501/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2T06N2GNXAVGX&keywords=Flip+Schulke+underwater+photography&qid=1691424045&s=books&sprefix=flip+schulke+underwater+photography%2Cstripbooks%2C155&sr=1-1

Flip has this to say about maintenance:

CAMERA MAINTENANCE

I disagree strongly with the Nikonos instruction manual accompanying each cameera on one major aspect. The manufacturer suggests (and actually shows a photograph) the owner rinse off the camear after a dive. This is fine in fresh water; but in salt water, where merely rinsing will not dissolve the salt that would have already dried during the time the camera was brought up from underwater and transported home. You must submerge the camera in fresh water, slightly warm, and add a little baking soda. Your camera will then last a long time, and corrosion due to salt crystals will not damage the camera or the camera's O-ring groove. I base thisbelief on the fact that my own cameras submerged in water for 30 minutes to an hour after every dive, do not show any signs of corrosion (even cameras more than 10 years old, in canstant use in salt water). On the other hand, I am constantly being handed a Nikonos to change film for other divers; and although the camera may be very new, I often find salt crystals caked aronud the lens O-ring seating groove. Salt crystals are also caked aronud all the controls, and metal corrosion is evident. I learn from questioning the diver that he or she merely rinses the camera in running water.

I have not discussed repair your Nikonos because I am a firm believer in camera repairmen; they know what they are doing and taking a camera apart is like taking a watch apart. Some people can do it, but most can't. If your camera lens or body is accidentally dropped into salt water, when it is being loaded, or if it leaks, follow the procedure outlined in Appendix 3, and ship your camera to the Nikon Service Center or a professional camera-repair center as soon as possible...

So check your Nikonos to see whether there has been evidence of salt caking on the O-rings. If so, there may have been damage to the O-ring groove.

Warm Mineral Springs diver by John Ratliff, on Flickr
A Nikonos II photo, using my 28mm lens, from 1975 when participating in the Warm Mineral Springs Underwater Archaeological Project.

'Hope this helps.

John

[Tusker]

John, thanks for the links and recommendations! I’ve got a lot to learn and I’m hoping to do some of it using a digital system soon. I’m in the process of moving some camera equipment I haven’t used in ages to facilitate this.

A Nikonos II seems like the best bet between the metal construction and fitting my purposes, so I’ll focus on finding one of those. Thanks for the point about making sure the sealing surfaces are sound, it seems like finding one in person is really the ideal choice versus one off of eBay.

Jacob

[antique diver]

Aug 7, 2023 3:42:12 GMT -8 Tusker said:

Bill, that's why I'm optimistic of being able to have enough of a seal to stay in the shallows.

Good point on the smaller ones under the dials. Any idea how hard those are to get to? As I understand the camera system, the main ones are relatively easy to maintain. It's the body one I'm concerned about the availability of though.

If you've had them scanned, you should put up some of your pictures!

Jacob

Jacob, I agree that a II would be good to have, but any of the first 3 are pretty bullet proof that I recall.

I have never tried changing the hidden seals under the winding/trip mechanism on any of my past Nikonos. I recall it was pretty easy to remove the lens knobs and access the oring under them. Pretty sure I had changed the oring under the rewinding crank without wrecking anything. That was all a long time ago.

Crazy busy right now, but I'll try to post some photos that I know were made with a Nikonos. Have lots of those. May need to remind me!

[cg43]

Hello Jacob

In Germany we had many discusion's aboud the Nikonos leting water come in .
We had a great dealer how blamed the diver's for less maintenes .
For me as an engineer that's not the hole true . The Nikonos III and IV as I know them 
had a bad design for the bearing of the winding mechanism . The plastic bearings/axsis had so
much play that the O ring acts as a third bearing . No wonders that it fail's often .
Diver how know that foud diverent solution's .
One was the longer lever .
To create tourque you always need two forces in a distance .
Longer distance and you need less force .
The second solution was to create two forces yourself.
If you only press the lever with your thumb the second force is delivered by the bearing .
Thats the way to press the axis hard to one side and because of the loose fit water may enter
if the sealing is not in superior order .
If you put your thumb on the knob and your finger on the end of the leaver,
you can create a tourqe without a lateral force from the bearing .

Don't worry about the deept's you can go with the Nikonos .
O rings seal better if there is perssure . Usualy water came in near the surface .
1978 I found a Nikonos III in the blue hole Dahab Egypt in 279 feet .
There were only a few drops of water inside . 

Greetings   Rainer

[antique diver]

Hi Rainer, Very good point about the side force on the stem and oring! Thanks for bringing that up.