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Post by Ed66 on Feb 22, 2006 20:02:22 GMT -8
Well I got my tank today and I pulled the valve and it looks as if it may need to be cleaned.  It looks like the normal flash rust but in some areas it looks a little more involved. The one thing I did note it the tank has the orig hydro date 1/ 66 and that's it it was never inspected after that it does a pretty neat old sticker that's in the form of a button and it says "Panic Button" Aqua Craft San Diego Calf. So here is my question I called the LDS, he knows I collect vintage dive stuff and I asked him if he will tumble the tank but he said they sandblast or beadblast the inside as it comes out better and wont mess up the outside. I also don't plan on doing nitrox with the tank is this the best way to go I do have another shop that will due a tumble but they start at about $40 to do it and go up from there. My LDS who would blast the inside would charge about $30-35 and I could get the VIP included with that. Any thoughts?? |
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Ron
Regular Diver
Posts: 41
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Post by Ron on Feb 22, 2006 22:07:50 GMT -8
Hi
Go out and buy a small bag of sand blasting sand and poor some into your tank. take another full scuba tank and jerry rig some type of rod to flow Hp air into the tank for a few minute and you will have a sand blasted clean tank, I do this all the time for my older tanks. I also use a biodegradable rust inhibitor to wash out the tank after words to prevent any flashing. Bead blasting can also be performed the same way if you want.
Ron
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Post by Captain on Feb 23, 2006 7:10:56 GMT -8
Hi Go out and buy a small bag of sand blasting sand and poor some into your tank. take another full scuba tank and jerry rig some type of rod to flow Hp air into the tank for a few minute and you will have a sand blasted clean tank, I do this all the time for my older tanks. I also use a biodegradable rust inhibitor to wash out the tank after words to prevent any flashing. Bead blasting can also be performed the same way if you want. Ron Just be sure the opening of the tank isn't aimed at you when you turn the air on. Best do it outside. |
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Post by SeaRat on Feb 23, 2006 8:51:42 GMT -8
Hi Go out and buy a small bag of sand blasting sand and poor some into your tank. take another full scuba tank and jerry rig some type of rod to flow Hp air into the tank for a few minute and you will have a sand blasted clean tank, I do this all the time for my older tanks. I also use a biodegradable rust inhibitor to wash out the tank after words to prevent any flashing. Bead blasting can also be performed the same way if you want. Ron If anyone does this, be sure to use a good NIOSH approved (has a TC number) respirator with HEPA filters. You wouldn't want to breath any of that stuff. John |
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Post by duckbill on Feb 23, 2006 10:08:16 GMT -8
Just be aware that blasting will open the pores of the metal, whereas tumbling peens the pores closed somewhat (smoother surface). A porous surface will tend to rust more readily. Not a big problem with dry air, but if I had a choice I think I'd go with tumbling. Anyone noticed any difference in this regard?
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Ron
Regular Diver
Posts: 41
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Post by Ron on Feb 23, 2006 10:42:06 GMT -8
Hi
DuckBill is corret there are different tumbling media types that will give you different results on the metal surfaces. I do blieve ceramic media is used in some cases for lighter smooter applications when tumbling. Blasting I would say is the last resort method for removing deposits that tumbling has no effect on but you do leave the metal open and will require some type of biodradable rust inhibitor coating.
Ron
Ron
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Post by treasureman on Feb 23, 2006 20:51:29 GMT -8
Would ther be a problem of medfia however small staying the cylinder and then being breathed, or jamming up the first stage of the reg. Glass beading. something about getting any glass into my gear makes me nervous.
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Post by duckbill on Feb 23, 2006 21:27:42 GMT -8
Would ther be a problem of medfia however small staying the cylinder and then being breathed, or jamming up the first stage of the reg. Glass beading. something about getting any glass into my gear makes me nervous. Shouldn't be a problem if they give it a good rinse. Oh well, that's what sintered filters are for. |
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Post by treasureman on Mar 23, 2006 15:16:28 GMT -8
What is the bio degrable rust inhibitor, how is it applied?
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Post by duckbill on Mar 23, 2006 15:39:24 GMT -8
What is the bio degrable rust inhibitor, how is it applied? There are pros and cons to using rust inhibitors. My hydro guy chooses not to use one and I don't remember why. I think he said it leaves a residue which powders off and gets into the regulator's filter. At any rate, there are some out there who recommend NOT using it for some reason or another. Maybe he is just being cheap. Dunno. |
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Post by JES on Mar 23, 2006 18:22:49 GMT -8
I recently got an old steel 72 as part of a package deal with a sweet DA-Aqua master. The DA-Aqua master was great, but when I removed the valve on the 72, I poured out a handful of loose rust. I haven't had the heart to visually inspect it yet.  I may be looking to try and tumble it soon if the damage isn't too severe. |
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Ron
Regular Diver
Posts: 41
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Post by Ron on Mar 23, 2006 18:55:43 GMT -8
Hi
Thats true some hydro stations use there own brews for trying to prevent flash after hydro testing cylinders. I suggest OMS corrostop.
CORROSTOP™ Corrosion Inhibitor has been chemically engineered to protect metal objects and equipment against the corrosive effects of fresh water, salt water and salt. It is a food grade, environmentally friendly product that is safe for use with oxygen service equipment!
Applications: Scuba equipment (e.g. cylinder protection, inside and outside), valves, regulators, fishing, boating and vehicular equipment constructed of metal and subject to the corrosive effects of salt. CORROSTOP™ is particularly useful when rinse water is either unavailable or must be conserved.
With similar and dissimilar metals, CORROSTOP™ inhibits anodic / cathodic deterioration and oxidation by:
Stopping galvanic reaction
Imparting a protective coating
CORROSTOP™ will, to some degree, repair past damage and prevent further corrosion when used as directed. CORROSTOP™ is safe for use with rubber and plastic products.
CORROSTOP™ concentrate is available in a 32-ounce bottle and a 2-ounce bottle. Two ounces of concentrate makes one gallon of CORROSTOP™.
Good luck Ron
Off to Beneath The Seas
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Post by pescador775 on Mar 23, 2006 19:01:35 GMT -8
One method of rust inhibition used in the 50's was to dissolve a small amount of vaseline in a beaker of alcohol and slosh the mixture around in the tank. Yeah, well...
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Post by JES on Mar 23, 2006 19:15:45 GMT -8
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It looks like the normal flash rust but in some areas it looks a little more involved.
