Post by luis on Mar 19, 2007 1:49:09 GMT -8
Below are some pictures of a main body regulator wrench for the Aqua Master, Royal Aqua Master, or Phoenix Royal Aqua Master.
I have been thinking of an easy way to make such a wrench and today I just went to the local hardware store and found all the components to make IMO the perfect tool for this job. The total cost about $14.
It is just an adjustable spud wrench (from the pluming department) with two ½” diameter 3 inch long schedule L (heavy) rigid copper tubing. First I hammered the tubes on to the end of the wrench jaws and then I flattened the tubes with a hammer. I also ended up jamming a Q-tip on the back side of the jaws in the tubes to hold the tubes when the tool is not in use (the tubes are not tightly wedged onto the jaws).
The jaws are only 2 inches long so the pipes work as extension and to protect the regulator body from scratches. The copper is much softer that the chromed brass body.
The tool works great. I was able to put quite a bit of torque on my latest Phoenix with no fear of scratching or damaging any parts.
It can be used to torque the first stage or the ring closing the main can. It makes contact on the main body below the yoke and the hookah cap.
The picture below has the tool clamped to my work bench, the way I would normally use it. The regulator first stage would be pointing down and I tighten the first stage with my large crescent wrench from underneath.
Here is the tool on a Phoenix RAM
On the next two pictures the yoke was removed for clarity.
I have been thinking of an easy way to make such a wrench and today I just went to the local hardware store and found all the components to make IMO the perfect tool for this job. The total cost about $14.
It is just an adjustable spud wrench (from the pluming department) with two ½” diameter 3 inch long schedule L (heavy) rigid copper tubing. First I hammered the tubes on to the end of the wrench jaws and then I flattened the tubes with a hammer. I also ended up jamming a Q-tip on the back side of the jaws in the tubes to hold the tubes when the tool is not in use (the tubes are not tightly wedged onto the jaws).
The jaws are only 2 inches long so the pipes work as extension and to protect the regulator body from scratches. The copper is much softer that the chromed brass body.
The tool works great. I was able to put quite a bit of torque on my latest Phoenix with no fear of scratching or damaging any parts.
It can be used to torque the first stage or the ring closing the main can. It makes contact on the main body below the yoke and the hookah cap.
The picture below has the tool clamped to my work bench, the way I would normally use it. The regulator first stage would be pointing down and I tighten the first stage with my large crescent wrench from underneath.
Here is the tool on a Phoenix RAM
On the next two pictures the yoke was removed for clarity.
