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Post by Michel on Jul 30, 2012 16:42:50 GMT -8
Sorry guys! I have not followed this thread carefully but when I partially restored a dial a breath it breathed quite well with a distinctive Mistral swoosh ! I traded it for parts as I only 'do' aquaLung dh's but i do know that the earlier Dacors had very restrictive hoses and especially mouthpieces which they later improved to be larger somewhat like the USD mouthpieces and it did improve the overall breathing experience! I happen to have a NOS Dacor mouthpiece for trade if anyone is interested in pursuing Dacor correctness in their restoration projects.
cheers,
Michel.
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Post by SeaRat on Jul 30, 2012 16:53:12 GMT -8
John, is that you bidding, just curious? I don't need it, but hoped it might help you So why do people get all hot and bothered about the C3N, yet really harsh on the Dialabreath? As far as I can see, and hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the C3N the same thing only using a duckbull instead of the second diaphragm, and obviously not utilizing the Dialabreath feature? Oh, BTW, um, if you can find an Olympic you don't mind cannibalizing, they use the same seat, pretty sure of that... Jaybird Jaybird, that was not me bidding on this one. It was an exhaust diaphragm without the exhaust valve (mushroom) in it, and it was for an R-4, not the original Dial-a-Breath. The HP diaphragm was for a Dial-a-Breath, but I don't need one. The other seat; I think it was to a Pacer, but I'm not sure. John
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Post by CG-45.com on Oct 3, 2012 13:02:40 GMT -8
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Post by nikeajax on Mar 9, 2013 10:33:18 GMT -8
Can someone please tell me how far the valve-body prt#1 (hp assembly) goes into the reduction-chamber prt#11 from Basic Scuba? I'm going to cut down an Olympic-200's first stage so I can have a valve body for the C-3 Sitka Dave gave me. I plan on using "Thread Lock" to keep the yoke-nut on it so it will never move again.
Thanks, Jaybird
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Post by SeaRat on Mar 11, 2013 22:46:24 GMT -8
Jaybird, I think all you need to do is to screw it into the body tight enough to make a HP seal by that gasket around the outside. So it needs to be pretty tight. It's not a matter of how far in it is screwed, as the pin goes in through the front of that piece, if that makes sense to you. I have a feeling that you won't need to cut down the valve body from the Olympic 200, as they may be the same valve body (the C3 was right about the same time as the Olympic 200).
I'm not sure what you mean about "...using "Thread Lock" to keep the yoke-nut on it so it will never move again." I don't think I'd do that if I were you, as Dacor regulators in that era were made to be assembled and disassembled with a pliers, screwdriver, and crescent wrench (or properly fitted wrench), and that's about it. You should not need to do this.
John
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Post by nikeajax on Mar 12, 2013 8:16:59 GMT -8
John, the Olympic-200 is almost identical to the Dart, or, has a body more like the USD Conshelf, where the yoke nut is separate, and not like the valve body on the R-4, etc. where the nut and valve body are one unit. Hmmm? I'm just kinda thinkin' out loud here: this is gonna be A LOT OF WORK if I do try it. I'll also have to braze the veins closed, as I was informed this weekend...
Jaybird
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Post by SeaRat on Mar 12, 2013 17:36:09 GMT -8
Jaybird,
I'm still not understanding, as the R-4 still has the yolk and the valve body separate, as does the C-3.
The Olympic first stage was their first one with the integrated yolk/valve body.
John
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Post by nikeajax on Mar 13, 2013 8:06:10 GMT -8
John, when Dacor came out with their Olympic series, 1969-79, they had 3 1/2 different models: 100-piston, 200-diaphragm, both of these were 2,500 psi regs, then you had the 400 and 800-ballanced piston models, which were virtually the same but the 800 had a J-valve, these were totally OVER ENGINEERED for 3,000 psi : I'm sure that now that you're reading this it's all coming back to you The model-200 had the same first stage as the Dart: I think, but not sure, they changed the "diaphragm clamping sleeve" for the Olympic-200. So, what I'm thinking of doing, is cutting the shoulders off the Dart/200 first stage, and using Loctite to secure the yoke-nut so I can get reasonable torque on it. Yeah, I already know I'm crazy ;D Jaybird
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Post by nikeajax on Mar 13, 2013 17:51:27 GMT -8
I meant to say the 400 & 800's were balanced diaphragm regs...
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Post by SeaRat on Mar 15, 2013 14:43:08 GMT -8
I did some testing on all my double hose regulators yesterday. It was a response to criticism that Luis had of my photos of the differences in flow for the different types of exhausts (mushroom valves verses the duckbill). I will have that here soon, but I need to collate the data and then I can publish it here. I will also be putting it onto Scubaboard too. But in doing this, I measured the exhalation resistance of my Dacor Dial-a-Breath double hose, double diaphragm regulator equipped with a USD curved mouthpiece and grey hoses. The results are below: Exhalation[/U] Break: 0.5-1.0 inches of water Hard exhalation: 2.5-2.7 inches of water Note: for the exhalation resistance test only, this regulator was submerged in 1.5 inchs of water (measured) so that I was measuring the exhalation through water, and not air. But because of this, you need to subtract about half an inch from the exhalation resistance (due to height of the diaphragm). This means that the breaking was almost non-existent and that the hard exhalation was about 2 inches to 2.2 inches of water. Inhalation[/U] Break: 1.0-1.7 inches of water Hard inhalation: greater than 3.0 inches of water These were measured using a Dyer Mk II, Model 25 Inclined Plane Manometer, which was calibrated to zero inches of water and balanced to level. This shows that the U.S. Navy Experimental Diving Unit's evaluation and graphs are showing worse performance than mine, although I could only do a surface reading and was not quantifying the rate of inhalation per minute. Google: 15 centimeters = 5.90551181 inches 5 centimeters = 1.96850394 inches John
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Post by nikeajax on Dec 4, 2013 16:18:34 GMT -8
While sitting at my acupuncture appointment thinking, as I couldn't do anything else, I thought about a part I'm going to make to hot-rod my Healthways Scuba, then I started thinking about the Dacor C3 Clipper I have. A bunch of pieces are missing and have to make them: I got to thinking, "What if I made the lever that touches the diaphragm longer?" My thought is that it would make the regulator much more sensitive and dynamic in the way it delivers air. Also, I see from John's image here, that the actuator-pin isn't what I thought it would look like: Okay, so they call it the "primary valve push rod", same-o-same-o... Jaybird
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Post by SeaRat on Dec 5, 2013 16:26:09 GMT -8
Jaybird,
Exactly what part do you need? I may have something here, but I need to know what you are actually missing. Is it the small actuator pin (#10 in Fred Roberts Basic Scuba)?
John
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Post by nikeajax on Dec 5, 2013 17:03:27 GMT -8
John, gosh, that would be swell! Yes, I'm missing part No. 10... Also missing parts, No.1 primary valve body, and No. 20, demand-valve-lever...
Jaybird
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Post by SeaRat on Dec 5, 2013 17:22:04 GMT -8
Okay, maybe we can cobble something together for this regulator of yours. However, the Clipper came out after the R4 according to Adair above. So the lever systems may be different. Any way you can get a photo of the parts that you have, and post it here?
John
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Post by nikeajax on Dec 5, 2013 17:54:17 GMT -8
Excellent! Yes, I'll post some pix tomorrow: somehow I don't think there is really much difference between them though, but we'll see...
Jaybird
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