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Post by gunslinger on Jan 20, 2014 15:14:25 GMT -8
i work in aviation , and we have peel shim washers that are .001 thick per ply
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Post by SeaRat on Jan 22, 2014 8:21:15 GMT -8
Gunslinger, nice to see you here. The peel shim washers may be helpful for the original Dial-a-Breath regulator by Dacor. Are they stainless steel?
I got my Clipper going better, and put the mouthpiece back into it. I used the Hope-Page mouthpiece in the pool the other day, when I had disappointing results. Now, the yellow hoses are back on it, and I have the original mouthpiece on it too. I figured the original mouthpiece was contaminated, so I boiled it for 3 minutes along with the cages. One of the non-returns did not survive the cleanup (it was cracked and could not be recovered). Rather than try a USD non-return (it would need to be cut down a tiny bit), I elected not to use a non-return in the intake. The results of this is that this regulator will now continuously flow if the Dial-a-Breath vane is not used to stop it. I have the vane set to block about 20% of the flow to prevent free-flow. So I think this is about as good as it gets.
The exhalation will be the same as the USD exhalation, as the same duckbill will be used. Now, I've got to await the river warming up a bit and in a few months I can put this regulator into the open water.
John
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Post by gunslinger on Jan 22, 2014 21:10:45 GMT -8
the shim washers come in aluminum, and passivated stainless steel
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Post by gunslinger on Jan 22, 2014 21:11:44 GMT -8
i had been looking for a H/page mouth piece for my healthways reg, but im not so sure now Lol....
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Post by SeaRat on Feb 7, 2014 23:26:45 GMT -8
Gunslinger, the Hope-Page mouthpiece is actually is a very good mouthpiece, and perhaps the most comfortable around. You can put the single-hose mouthpiece of your choice on it, and enjoy it. So I would hightly recommend it to you. I have two, and have used the Hope-Page on my Mossback Mk3 regulator.
John
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Post by nikeajax on Feb 25, 2014 18:09:30 GMT -8
Okay gang, this is what I got, and taking to my machinist: Jaybird
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Post by SeaRat on Feb 26, 2014 9:21:37 GMT -8
Take another look at the lever. I think you've got it correct, but the shorter angle may need to be slightly greater. However, this can be changed once you have the lever. John
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Post by nikeajax on Feb 26, 2014 10:26:52 GMT -8
John, are you talking about the 35-degree, or the 12-degree? I was using this image as a guide: I was using Adobe Photoshop to calculate the angles, which can be done if you select an object, then use the transform tool and plug in the coordinates, but yeah, I'm sure it's all a bit off, but I think it's close enough to work with then tweak... Jaybird
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Post by sitkadiver on Feb 26, 2014 10:31:22 GMT -8
Please share the finished result. I'd like to see that work.
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Post by SeaRat on Feb 26, 2014 11:03:31 GMT -8
Jaybird,
I was talking about the 35 degrees. In the drawing above, it looks more like 45 degrees, but like I said once you have the lever, that can be changed. One of the criticisms I had of the R-4 levers is that the secondary lever actually travels down toward the fulcrum instead of away from it as it is depressed. This decreases the leverage as more air output is demanded. The Mistral lever system, and the original Dacor Dial-A-Breath, had that angle increasing as the secondary lever pressed against the primary lever by sliding down the secondary lever. The R-4 and Clipper, by having that semi-circle, decreased the lever advantage at higher demands. Years ago, I straightened the secondary lever out to produce a lever system which worked more like the Mistral's levers, and it seemed better but I had a problem in that there were rough "ridges" and the breathing was uneven. I sent it to Dacor to have them take a look through their area rep, and never saw the regulator again. They replaced it with a Pacer regulator. I wonder if the lever arrangement is because of some patent restrictions that U.S. Divers had on the Mistral's lever system? Saying all that, my Clipper is breathing very nicely right now with the original lever design.
John
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Post by nikeajax on Feb 26, 2014 12:26:26 GMT -8
Setting the IP is making me a bit, not exactly nervous, but they're method is a bit half-@$$'ed to me. Holding the gauge in by hand, like some of the old style compression gauges for automobiles: I don't like that idea much! Seems more like you want to have both hands free especially when you're dealing with very high-pressure air streams pointing at you --YIKES! Did I miss something in reading their method of adjustment? Jaybird
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Post by SeaRat on Feb 26, 2014 14:25:21 GMT -8
Probably not, but I don't use a gauge for the Dacor Clipper; I use a 500 psig tank, and set it until it leaks and back it off a bit. Because of the darned adjusting nut, this is difficult to do under pressure, so do any adjustments without pressurizing the unit. Otherwise, that adjusting screw can be distorted (which happened to me) and the locking nut cannot be put back on (also happened to me). So I'm using the unit sans locking nut.
Using the gauge is possible, but because of the unique Dacor method of sealing, there is nothing on which to tie the gauge to when it's in the hole. The Second Stage Body has those two screws holding it down. But not the gauge.
John
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Post by nikeajax on Feb 26, 2014 14:35:10 GMT -8
Okay, so it's not just me! I want to see if I can make something that will be held on by some screw's where the seat-holder mates up to the main-body...
Jaybird
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Post by SeaRat on Feb 26, 2014 14:47:52 GMT -8
Jaybird,
Now that I think about it, I think the Second Stage Body has those two screws, and I found that without them tightened down there is an interstage leak! So I'm not so sure that you can get a gauge to work on this regulator. It has to do with the placement of the screws in securing the diaphragm.
By the way, make that 0.438 inch hole large in the primary lever enough that you can get the locking nut and a thin socket wrench head into it to secure the nut, without the hole's edge rubbing against the nut when it moves during the breathing cycle.
John
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Post by nikeajax on Feb 26, 2014 17:23:08 GMT -8
John, yes, I would be using those screws, or ones like them, to hold the gauge in: it'll be air-tight for sure!
If I've read the Dacor manual right, the levers don't actually need to be on the regulator while the IP is being set.
Jaybird
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